71DodgeDemon340
Well-Known Member
So im wondering if that is oil and it migrated to the water passages and oil residue had mixed with the #2 gasket sealant causing it to separate maybe thats what caused the coolant to sweat out the gasket?
What we're sayin is, we don't frikkin know and you need to check it out thoroughly or else you might end up with a threepeat.So what yall are saying is that possibly oil made its way up through the bolts and soaked the gasket? Only thing on the bolts when i took them out was thread sealant.
What we're sayin is, we don't frikkin know and you need to check it out thoroughly or else you might end up with a threepeat.
I understand. I wasn't bein smart. Just sayin that since we're not there we won't know for sure and you're the one whose large and in charge of double and triple checkin everything. At this point, I would be checking the bolt hole depths on ALL those holes making dang sure the bolts aren't bottoming out. Just everything in general about bolting that intake on. I might even LITERALLY get out a magnifying glass. I've done it before and probably will again. Usually find something too. All we're sayin is leave no stone unturned...well.....I mean......unless you wanna do this again. lolhey im just askin, this is a new one on me. I havent built engines or put them together so you guys know the little gremlins better than me. I have no explanation why, and i have tried to logically think of all the possibilities. i will check the intake, heads and block with a straight edge tomorrow to confirm
I understand. I wasn't bein smart. Just sayin that since we're not there we won't know for sure and you're the one whose large and in charge of double and triple checkin everything. At this point, I would be checking the bolt hole depths on ALL those holes making dang sure the bolts aren't bottoming out. Just everything in general about bolting that intake on. I might even LITERALLY get out a magnifying glass. I've done it before and probably will again. Usually find something too. All we're sayin is leave no stone unturned...well.....I mean......unless you wanna do this again. lol
You should see how quick I can RIP the intake off a 351C, 351M, and 400 Ford engines. Like RIGHT quick like. Those intakes are DRY with no water whatsoever through them. The thermostat housing is in the block. Easy peasy intake swap.Not really! Lol. Although i was quicker this time lmao
Com'on man! LOLYou should have felt how much my heart sank when i saw the little bit of coolant residue, im like come on! And i have been tedious about checking for coolant the last 2 months since i put it back together.
Com'on man! LOL
So what yall are saying is that possibly oil made its way up through the bolts and soaked the gasket? Only thing on the bolts when i took them out was thread sealant.
Screw all the intake bolts into the heads before the intake goes on to see where they bottom out.
all the bolts are the same length, the 4 on the outer corners are 1-1/4” deep, the intake flange is about 3/4” thick and the bolts are 1-5/8”
Ok just a update, i checked the heads, china walls and intake with a straight edge, no noticeable gaps, there was a very slight light gap when i got to the rear of the intake flange where the rear water ports would be, i could barely see light through in a spot but i doubt its even measurable with a feeler guage. The straight edge could also have a variance in it as well. Dry fit the intake on the engine, fit nice against the heads on both sides, no rock in the intake. bolt holes in the heads were about dead center in the holes on the intake, checked with a feeler guage and made sure the intake wasnt touching the china walls, i think i ended up with about .030 of gap between the intake and china wall with no gaskets. I threaded the 4 corner bolts in by hand until they bottomed out. I had about 1/2” from the head to the bottom of the washer on the bolt. The intake flange is just under 3/4” thick so i have about 3/16” of threads to bolt the intake down in the 4 corners not counting the 1/16” gasket. For good measure i added 1/16” thick washers between the bolt and hardened washer on the 4 corner bolts. I cleaned all the bolt holes with some brake cleaner on q tips and got them as clean as i could. Wire wheeled all the bolts clean. Went over the heads, china walls and intake flange with a piece of old red scotch brite and brake cleaner, wiped over all surfaces several times with the brake cleaner, applied a layer of the gasgacinch on the heads and on the head side of the gaskets. Applied a thin wipe of gray rtv around the water ports and then lined the gaskets up with the intake ports and bolt holes and stuck them on, put a good amount of gray rtv on the china walls overlapping onto the intake gaskets, put a thin wipe of rtv on the gaskets around the water ports. Set the intake on and lined up pretty close, had to shift it a little to the pass side to get the holes lined up, put thread sealant on all the bolts and the all threaded in without a problem. Ran them down until they just made contact with the intake, tightened the intake using the recommended sequence and went over them about 5 or 6 times tightening them gradually, gonna let it sit untill tomorrow night and then fill it with coolant, and cross my fingers. Have to redo the valve cover gaskets tomorrow, think im going to clearance the valve covers some more as well
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Hey there, did you cure your coolant soaking issue with the edelbrock gaskets??Ok just a update, i checked the heads, china walls and intake with a straight edge, no noticeable gaps, there was a very slight light gap when i got to the rear of the intake flange where the rear water ports would be, i could barely see light through in a spot but i doubt its even measurable with a feeler guage. The straight edge could also have a variance in it as well. Dry fit the intake on the engine, fit nice against the heads on both sides, no rock in the intake. bolt holes in the heads were about dead center in the holes on the intake, checked with a feeler guage and made sure the intake wasnt touching the china walls, i think i ended up with about .030 of gap between the intake and china wall with no gaskets. I threaded the 4 corner bolts in by hand until they bottomed out. I had about 1/2” from the head to the bottom of the washer on the bolt. The intake flange is just under 3/4” thick so i have about 3/16” of threads to bolt the intake down in the 4 corners not counting the 1/16” gasket. For good measure i added 1/16” thick washers between the bolt and hardened washer on the 4 corner bolts. I cleaned all the bolt holes with some brake cleaner on q tips and got them as clean as i could. Wire wheeled all the bolts clean. Went over the heads, china walls and intake flange with a piece of old red scotch brite and brake cleaner, wiped over all surfaces several times with the brake cleaner, applied a layer of the gasgacinch on the heads and on the head side of the gaskets. Applied a thin wipe of gray rtv around the water ports and then lined the gaskets up with the intake ports and bolt holes and stuck them on, put a good amount of gray rtv on the china walls overlapping onto the intake gaskets, put a thin wipe of rtv on the gaskets around the water ports. Set the intake on and lined up pretty close, had to shift it a little to the pass side to get the holes lined up, put thread sealant on all the bolts and the all threaded in without a problem. Ran them down until they just made contact with the intake, tightened the intake using the recommended sequence and went over them about 5 or 6 times tightening them gradually, gonna let it sit untill tomorrow night and then fill it with coolant, and cross my fingers. Have to redo the valve cover gaskets tomorrow, think im going to clearance the valve covers some more as well
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