Does anyone know if I can use a beer can aluminum to block the heat riser passage?
You can, but it too will burn through. I blocked mine off with some roof flashing, and when I changed the intake, it had burnt through.
Does anyone know if I can use a beer can aluminum to block the heat riser passage?
Interesting. There would be no point then. Someone suggested dog food can lid...but I don't have a dogYou can, but it too will burn through. I blocked mine off with some roof flashing, and when I changed the intake, it had burnt through.
One thing to consider. I have the 1406 with the air gap. It does not come with a choke. Are you using one? I do not and it it fine. Just have to let it warm for an extra minute or two.
Sorry to revive this dead thread but I need to install my intake again. Did a whole front end rebuild and cam swap.
Does anyone know if I can use a beer can aluminum to block the heat riser passage?
Interesting. There would be no point then. Someone suggested dog food can lid...but I don't have a dog
You can, but it too will burn through. I blocked mine off with some roof flashing, and when I changed the intake, it had burnt through.
Interesting. There would be no point then. Someone suggested dog food can lid...but I don't have a dog
Get the proper gasket with the block off...
If you use the wrong material, it will burn through...
Even with the right material it may also if not installed correctly...
We put an engine on a dyno with one exhaust crossover flange gasket torqued properly, and one that wasn't... The one that wasn't torqued properly burned through, the one that was didn't... That proved that you had to have the joint tightened properly for the gasket to survive that heat/environment, even with the proper material...
I have a dog...
Thanks. Why does that U shape area even exist then?The outside U-shaped part doesn't go anywhere. You can block it, but it won't make any difference. The inner small port is where the exhaust flows thru.
Why does that U shape area even exist then?
Thanks. Why does that U shape area even exist then?
Yep.To make us all ask that same question. Don't rightly know, maybe something to do with the casting process?
Yup.....or those tiny clips on the throttle/kickdown linkage and Carter/Eddy carbs.....It is to catch the carburetor nuts when you drop them.
It is to catch the carburetor nuts when you drop them.
Expansion relief for that particularly hot area of that head surface; the rest of that surface is relatively cooler. An interesting engineering problem... I wonder how long they had known about that problem when they designed these castings.Thanks. Why does that U shape area even exist then?
It's as good as what you paid for it.... LOLAll done. I put a piece of stainless in there. I guess I will report back if your guys instructions were bad and I have a leak. You guys provide a warranty right!?!
Let's not get into "as good as what I paid". The only thing I haven't touched on this car is the back seat. And I bought it because it didn't need much work! Silly me. I love the car but I wish I had the experience I do know. Would have saved myself $3k on the asking price.It's as good as what you paid for it.... LOL
Not from my exerience...if you're using composite intake gaskets, the shims will just embed themselves in the gasket material, but I would still throw a little gasket sealer around the area for extra insurance.This Thread is just what I needed to know. I see that the Mopar intake manifold comes with two rectangular, stainless plates that should be placed on the head side of the gasket with high temp silicone to block the heat. I wonder if they need to be formed to fit inside the port on the head or just laid flat on the port. I'd think that just laying them flat might deform the gasket and create a gap that would leak exhaust.