Intake Manifold Removal Questions

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65Valiant310

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Hi all,
Do I have to replace the intake manifold gasket if I take the manifold off the top of the motor? Also, what are the Ft-Lbs to torque the bolts back onto the manifold? I notice oil sometimes runs up and leaks through some of the bolts also.
Manifold is a Performer RPM on a 318 motor.
 
65Valiant310 said:
I am guessing I need to drain all coolant too...
Click to expand...

Yes

If your intake is aluminum upon installation don't use the gaskets (not the intake to head gaskets) on the front and back. Use RTV sealant. It will leak if you use those gaskets. Edelbrock has it on the instructions not to use these gaskets.
 
sometimes i use the end gaskets, sometimes not, it just depends on the mood im in LOL, i have never noticed a difference either way. i have a 360 with and a 318 without, and neither leak. as steve said , i always put a think layer of sealant around the water passages, then stick the gaskets, and then a layer on the intake water passages and torque it down.
 
If you don't use the front and rear gaskets make sure your RTV sealant bead is higher than the gap between the intake and the block.
Whoever did mine didn't apply enough and it leaked oil all over the top of the timing cover.
When I changed to the aluminum intake I set it on dry first just to make sure what the gap was going to be and made the bead of RTV about an 1/8 inch higher and set it on as SOON as possible so the RTV could adhere to the intake.

Perfectly dry now.
 
I can see the side gaskets poking out (light blue). Doesnt look like there is a front gasket, yet hard to tell without taking it off.
 
TrailBeast said:
If you don't use the front and rear gaskets make sure your RTV sealant bead is higher than the gap between the intake and the block.
Whoever did mine didn't apply enough and it leaked oil all over the top of the timing cover.
When I changed to the aluminum intake I set it on dry first just to make sure what the gap was going to be and made the bead of RTV about an 1/8 inch higher and set it on as SOON as possible so the RTV could adhere to the intake.

Perfectly dry now.
Click to expand...

Good point to mention!
 
Mine looks like there is no gasket either (Now)

The bead of RTV is more toward the inside of the engine so when it squeezed down from the intake being put on you can hardly notice that there even is a seal between thoes surfaces.



65Valiant310 said:
I can see the side gaskets poking out (light blue). Doesnt look like there is a front gasket, yet hard to tell without taking it off.
Click to expand...
 
If the top of the block is clean, try setting the intake in place and trace the front and back ends with a sharpie to tell you the outside points of contact. Place your RTV on the valley side of your line, too much is better than not enough. Pay close attention to the pass front section where it intersect the head. It has a funny jog in it that is easy to miss the actual sealing surface.

If you do the RTV for end seals, please make sure you remove the locating pins that hold the cork seals in place if present. They have been known to keep the intake from seating down. If you tighten it down with those holding it up, you can break ears off the intake.

If the rtv squeezing out, looking like an exploding hamburger bugs you, trim it with a razor after it sets up.

Good luck with it.
 
Looks like the front and rear of the manifold have the gaskets installed after all.
 
As previously mentioned by mullinax95 , make sure to put sealant on the threads ; however , I prefer to use teflon in liquid form (pipe dope ?) on the threads as opposed to silicone . This is of paramount importance where the intake bolts pass-through or near coolant passages ; it will also prevent oil from pooling in the heat crossover areas on the intake's external surface .

And , of course , follow the factory torque sequence and lb/spec . Tighten in two phases (three if you count the hand tightening --"snugging"--of the bolts) prior to torquing 'em down .
 
Is there a way to remove each bolt, put on some sealant, and then reinstall, without loosening all bolts at the same time? I may not remove the manifold if I do not have to.
I do have 2-3 bolts that have some oil pools around them. According to edelbrock, its 25 ft-lbs.
 
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