Intake Manifolds

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Last car Mustang Dan posted he was buying was some perfumed up pig at a dealer
 
I get you Dan, I used to be a lot like you, except I bought books, a lotta, lotta books in an era when Dcr and Quench was not even talked about. Trying to get that information was like pulling hens teeth. Finally, when I had exhausted as many roads as I could find (this was 1998/99 before the internet exploded) I did all my calculations by calculator, and pulled the trigger. Two years while my car was in the bodyshop, I read the books, the magazines, extracted data, and played the numbers.
Time well spent, as the engine was a hit, almost right off, in spite of the fact that the local engine shop refused to screw it together for me on account of 11.3Scr was gonna blow it up.... they said. Well it's still running today, more than 23 years later, so screw them, lol.
Dan, it's pretty hard to learn unless you have a teacher, or ask a lot of questions. I say, keep asking the questions. Bullies be bullies and mostly they never change. And you know; they get their comeuppance in the end. Keep on forgiving them, cuz you know your health depends on it. I'm in your corner, brother.
 
Ya, Im afraid you have dug a hole deeper than you can dig yourself out of Dan. All of your new found curiosity is cute and all but your lack of "get er done" is just a breeding ground for distain.

Ya gotta admit, your threads generate WAAAAAY more interest than anything I've posted........which leads me to believe you already have a Fox body with nitrous and you are really 22 yrs old and from Germany.:rolleyes::steering:
Wrong on both guesses. But nice try
 
DTM post number 45 trillion…

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And that 72 gold duster would be in my garage yesterday, but the thing is, there already is a 72 340 4 speed gold duster in my garage…..
 
You have my permission to buy it and then you'll have 2 72 gold duster's in your garage
LoL, unnecessary when I have 2 others, 70 duster (one day will be a drag car) and a 75 hang 10 dart. When you want something bad enough, you will have it… until then tomorrow is never guaranteed, our days are only getting shorter to enjoy these old cars…. **** or get off the pot Dan… We are all over here waiting to cheer you on when your done with your as of July 31 ten year search for a car…
 
those little banditos absconded with a whole 25lb bag of friskies, a quart of homemade gin and the keys to my 1987 Renault Turbo Fuego. they're probably half way to Juarez to meet Little King Trashmouth and El Diablo and live the high life at The Victory Club for the rest of their days.

or at least until the fling. i hope they come back, because i'll need help unloading all the parts!
I’ve never seen a man talk about himself with such conviction! I’ll make sure to show this to the crippled coyotes!
 
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We are all trying Dan. Even those that have negative posts, they are trying. To light a fire. We all love discussing intakes and all that.

Just go buy the damn car. Then we can get on to phase two............The "How To" series.
 
I get general learning, but his is all geared to a mild 318, but who knows what engine your gonna end up with and if V8 good chance it's already mildly hopped up, unless the only car your willing to buy it a untouched 318 so you can do a hand full of mild mods.

I'm not trying to pick on you, you just don't make sense to most of us and it's non stop, I'm for you learning and posting questions it's what the site for but don't get surprised when people get tried of the same road going nowhere. Keep posting but don't get all wounded dog on us when some show their dissatisfaction with your progress.
 
Best way to learn is to get a car. The research, turn wrench, mess up, turn more wrench, drive car process is the unbeatable way to understand how these things work. I’m in the thick of it as we speak.
 
Reading between the lines. He is saying all depends on the application the intake is used for.
Fyi, brand does not matter. Mild street motor 318,340 or 360 stock cast iron Mopar work well.
The 3 brands you mention in duel plane, plus Holley Street-Dom single plain will also work.
You are painting with a broad brush since you have no car or application to match it to.
Get a car 1st, did I mention Crap or get off the pot...... BTW, you are slacking! You are not even posting the cars you are not going to pretend buy.
Yawn.........
I run a Holley Street Dominator on my mild build 70' 340 and well please with it. I also like its "low profile" to fit under my dog house in my van. I also don't like cutting and scooping a hood.
 
I've just been doing some more reading and I have a question concerning intakes. I found information on edelbrock, weiand but nothing really on the offenhauser intakes, are they a good intake for low to midrange torque and all around drive ability?
Dan, doing research is good. For intake manifolds, generally the factory 4 barrel intake, the Edelbrock Performer or an equivalent dual plane competitor work well on the street.
I would spend time finding a car and planning the long block assembly. You need to research piston manufacturers to find one that makes a hypereutectic piston that with the crank at TDC will put the outer diameter of the piston crown flush or possibly 0.005" above the deck surface.
For heads the best is quench heads that have a flat part even with the gasket surface that extends over the cylinder bore. You could use the Chev LS 1.9"/1.55" valves with the beehive springs, retainers and locks. The stems are 8mm so guides need to be installed in LA heads. These valves are considerably lighter than the factory valves. Melling are fairly reasonable for price. The machine shop can cut the seats large
R and install larger exhaust seats if required, and use a bowl hog to get the bowl shape and size started. Some minor bowl porting and port match to the intake gasket size will be a big benefit. Watch David Vizard Powertec 10 porting videos, especially on the Mission Impossible project which is based on a 318. For a first build, do not worry about what is best and getting spendy on forged aftermarket rods.
On the piston discussion, try to find reasonable cost pistons machined for 1/16" compression rings. Once you get thinner the costs for 0.043", 1.5mm, 1.2mm and 1mm go up quickly. NASCAR is even using 0.7mm compression rings and gudgeon pins down to 0.787" diameter for low weight and give more room for the ring pack with long rods. Those rings are titanium nitride coated for wear resistance and low drag. Big reduction of the bank balance there. But then a NASCAR egine is $50k or more and the rod journals are sized for Honda or Toyota rod bearings.
 
Offenhauser never made a dual Pane intake manifold. Their low-profile manifolds are a split plenum single plane. Not the single plane design like a Victor or Torker either. 50s tech. They made a "Dual Port" which does not accomplish the claims Offy made. Offys Tunnel Rams and Port O sonic single planes are good within their category- stock hi po iron heads. IMO Offy intakes are better to hang on wall for conversation. Id run a performer on a 318 before Id run a single carb Offy intake. And the performers intake ports are sized for the 340/360- even so Id run one on a 318. Now if you want to run dual quads on a 318- Offys unit is more readily available than the Edelbrock D66. I resealed the intake manifold on my 1995 318 Dakota. With the Keg removed I placed my Offy 2x4 for 273/318 on my 318 Mag just for the heck of it. Looks cool.

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