[SOLD] Interesting NOS 2bbl Carburetor

[slantsixdan]

I thought I was all out, but I have one of these carbs left, brand new (not "remanufactured" junk, not a "100% NewNewNewNew!" Chinese trinket). $198 plus the postal ride from Seattle.

In 1971, Chrysler bought DualJet 2bbl carburetors from Rochester Products and installed them as original equipment on 318s in A- and B-body cars. I'm not sure why they did this—might've been the labor turbulence at that time made them nervous about having too much reliance on just two carburetor suppliers, but that's just a guess. It was not the first time; they did something similar in '63 (Stromberg WA3s from Bendix on 225s in B- and C-bodies).

The Rochester DualJet is a good, reputable carburetor that's designed thoughtfully (easily-rebushable cast iron throttle body, compound venturis, dual bowl vents, no bowl gaskets below fuel level), runs well, and doesn't tend to make problems. Although it was a one-year-only item on Mopars, it was very widely used on other applications; kits and floats and parts are easy and inexpensive to buy. The Mopar-configured carb is a drop-on/hook-up replacement for a Carter BBD, Stromburg WW3, or Holley 2280, so it bolts onto a 273, 318, or Slant-6 2bbl intake and the throttle linkage, air cleaner, etc hook up easily. The '71 318 calibration works nicely on a stock or near-stock 225, 273, 313, or (obvs) 318. Yearwise, it will happily work on any '60-up car, though it won't accept the pre-'66 air cleaner base with its clamp-band type attachment (you'll need to use a '66-up air cleaner). It does not have a venturi vacuum tap for EGR, so if you want to keep that working on your '73-up car this is not your carb.

Here are pics and the relevant page from the factory parts catalogue:

 

[ebodykwv]

I thought I was all out, but I have one of these carbs left, brand new (not "remanufactured" junk, not a "100% NewNewNewNew!" Chinese trinket). $198 plus the postal ride from Seattle.

In 1971, Chrysler bought DualJet 2bbl carburetors from Rochester Products and installed them as original equipment on 318s in A- and B-body cars. I'm not sure why they did this—might've been the labor turbulence at that time made them nervous about having too much reliance on just two carburetor suppliers, but that's just a guess. It was not the first time; they did something similar in '63 (Stromberg WA3s from Bendix on 225s in B- and C-bodies).

The Rochester DualJet is a good, reputable carburetor that's designed thoughtfully (easily-rebushable cast iron throttle body, compound venturis, dual bowl vents, no bowl gaskets below fuel level), runs well, and doesn't tend to make problems. Although it was a one-year-only item on Mopars, it was very widely used on other applications; kits and floats and parts are easy and inexpensive to buy. The Mopar-configured carb is a drop-on/hook-up replacement for a Carter BBD, Stromburg WW3, or Holley 2280, so it bolts onto a 273, 318, or Slant-6 2bbl intake and the throttle linkage, air cleaner, etc hook up easily. The '71 318 calibration works nicely on a stock or near-stock 225, 273, 313, or (obvs) 318. Yearwise, it will happily work on any '60-up car, though it won't accept the pre-'66 air cleaner base with its clamp-band type attachment (you'll need to use a '66-up air cleaner). It does not have a venturi vacuum tap for EGR, so if you want to keep that working on your '73-up car this is not your carb.

Here are pics and the relevant page from the factory parts catalogue:

hello dan, should i assume this carb would need rebuilt because of dried up gaskets and parts? or have you ran one this old with good results, thanks...ken.

 

[slantsixdan]

It wouldn't hurt anything to do so, but experience has taught me that unless there's some obvious external sign that a particular NOS carb should be gone through, they work fine right out of the box with a bit of easy preparation: Check that all the hold-together screws are suitably tight. Use an unbent paperclip to push the inlet needle inward away from its seat (they tend to adhere to the seat over the years). Then put the straw on a can of carburetor cleaner (or I've also used Liquid Wrench or WD-40, not crucial) and put the other end of the straw right in the middle of the inlet fitting. Give a good, long shot. Do the same with the nozzles in the venturi, and the internal bowl vent. Operate the throttle lever a few times until you get some action (even just a sputtering spurt) from the accelerator pump. Hose out the venturi and nozzles with carburetor cleaner to flush away whatever dust has accumulated over the years (best to use actual carburetor cleaner for this). Then go ahead and bolt on the carb, hook it up, start up the engine, make the adjustments, and off you go.

(I used to have a whole-wall shelf full of NOS carburetors. Carter, Holley, Bendix-Stromberg, Rochester, and a few others. Most of 'em I sold off, some of 'em I used...the recommendation above comes from the experience gained.)

 

[slantsixdan]

…and just for proof this carburetor is still easy to service:
• Here's the carb kit
• Here's the float in brass or in Nitrophyll
• Here's the choke pull-off.
•

 

[slantsixdan]

Sale pending

 

[slantsixdan]

Sold!