pacuda59
pacuda59
Just got back from a beautiful fall drive in eastern PA with the top down! However, I noticed my oil pressure gauge was jumping to H for a while and then it would go back to it's usual position. What would cause this?
Intermitant Oil Presure Gauge
- Thread starter pacuda59
- Start date
-
GEO
Sarcasm Inc.
Change the sensor
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
You talking about the factory electric gauge? Is this the ONLY gauge which is doing this?
If so, could be the sensor, or also could be a short to ground in the sender wire from the cluster to the sender
If so, could be the sensor, or also could be a short to ground in the sender wire from the cluster to the sender
LA engine, oil sender at the back and underneath the distributer. The wire terminal is not insulated. If that terminal or and small break in the wires casing lets the wire touch ground, the gauge pointer goes to full.
pacuda59
pacuda59
OK, this points me in the right direction. I should have added that my fuel and temp gauges don't work.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Might be time to fix them all.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Since the others don't work, this could easily be a bad instrument VR.
I agree with Red---
My old 67 had a NUMBER of problems, and is one reason I try to get you guys to think of the gauges as an end -- to -- end SYSTEM
Pull the cluster
Check the power from ignition to the cluster, make sure it is same as batter
Evidently you have a Rally cluster which means your voltage limiter is built INSIDE the fuel gauge. If you google around there are a number of ways to deal with this, but basically you need to disable the VR in the gauge, and attach an external one and wire that in.
Otherwise, bad wire connections, bad ground to the cluster, and don't forget that the oil and temp gauge go through the bulkhead connector -- yet another place for a poor connection
Don't discount that there may be bad connections right at the senders. The temp/ fuel are molded connectors, can be broken wire internally or corroded or work loose. "Work" them on/off the stud to "scrub" the connection and inspect for corrosion. Good idea to buy a small bottle of electrical "anti ox" available at any place that sells wiring products. Both Lowe's and Home Depot should have it.
I agree with Red---
My old 67 had a NUMBER of problems, and is one reason I try to get you guys to think of the gauges as an end -- to -- end SYSTEM
Pull the cluster
Check the power from ignition to the cluster, make sure it is same as batter
Evidently you have a Rally cluster which means your voltage limiter is built INSIDE the fuel gauge. If you google around there are a number of ways to deal with this, but basically you need to disable the VR in the gauge, and attach an external one and wire that in.
Otherwise, bad wire connections, bad ground to the cluster, and don't forget that the oil and temp gauge go through the bulkhead connector -- yet another place for a poor connection
Don't discount that there may be bad connections right at the senders. The temp/ fuel are molded connectors, can be broken wire internally or corroded or work loose. "Work" them on/off the stud to "scrub" the connection and inspect for corrosion. Good idea to buy a small bottle of electrical "anti ox" available at any place that sells wiring products. Both Lowe's and Home Depot should have it.
pacuda59
pacuda59
Thanks Guys!
-
