Internal engine cleaners/additives

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69 Barracuda vert

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I have always with every car I've owned used products like STP and Rislone, then came Slick50. I now have a 54 yr old girl "Lady Blue" and changed her oil for the first time. I used Rislone 2 pints and drove for 100 miles to clean the engine, changed the oil and added Bars leak stop to hopefully seal the rings and the bore to stop smoking and seal the rear main oil leak. Do these chemicals work, am I relying on the Mopar God to much?

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I have always with every car I've owned used products like STP and Rislone, then came Slick50. I now have a 54 yr old girl "Lady Blue" and changed her oil for the first time. I used Rislone 2 pints and drove for 100 miles to clean the engine, changed the oil and added Bars leak stop to hopefully seal the rings and the bore to stop smoking and seal the rear main oil leak. Do these chemicals work, am I relying on the Mopar God to much?

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Snake Oil
If you use the proper products to begin with you dont need any additives.
Exception being the addtion of ZDDP for flat tappet cams.
 
So if you are the 3rd owner and don't know how it was treated over the 79k miles what would you do on the first oil change? By the way, it is running so smooth and quiet with no leaks at the rear main.

If you use the proper products to begin with you dont need any additives.
Exception being the addtion of ZDDP for flat tappet cams.
 
Seafoam is the magic product that stops engine smoking.

Here is the underlying problem. With age the piston rings and piston ring grooves become filled with carbon, and can't expand out. Hence they start burning oil from the poor cylinder wall to ring seal.

Ultimately if you have the time, take all the spark plugs out and put 1/2 a cup of Seafoam in each spark plug hole and let sit for a week.

The Seafoam will soften up the hard carbon and it will start running past the rings into the oil pan.

After a week start it up get it warm and drain out that oil, it's going to be really black.

With fresh oil and new filter Add 1/2 pint of seafoam and drive it for 100 miles. Then change out that oil and go back to your regular oil changes after that.

No more smoke.

If you don't want to go through that professional method, just put 1 pint of seafoam In the engine oil and take it out and drive it for 25 miles. Then let it sit for a week as the seafoam is in there desolving the carbon.

Then fire it up, get it warm and get that black oil out of there. Fresh oil and filter and you are good to go.

Have saved at least 5 oil smoking engines using this method. 2 of them were Diesel Farm tractors.

No more smoke. The rings loosen up and reseat to the cylinder walls.

It is good to know what actually is happening, instead of just pouring it in, hopping it works.

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At your local auto parts store.
 
Prolong works. I drove my truck home from Carlisle towing a trailer with no oil. Then kept driving it for a long time . If I would tell you how long you would not believe me. But when I finally tore it out I reused the cam in the engine I put back in.

I melted a piston Going there and I saw the guy running a 318 there with no oil in it. I bought a case of prolong and oil and filled the engine. After using up a case of that and regular oil on the way home we went for it . It ticked bad but never got hot. I ended up putting adjustable rockers on it and took out the play. We towed with that truck locally for a long time Just to see if it would stay together and it did. The only pictures I have of the truck before we modified it. Then we put a cummins in it. and painted it two tone gray

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I am a believer in Seafoam, I dose all my fuel in every engine I have with it. I also use Marvel Mystery oil on occasion. I have seen and heard where Marvel Mystery oil is used in light aircraft engines, it is reported to be a great top end lubricant.
 
Trust me, there was enough oil in it, or the rods would have been hanging out of the pan. BS
 
I've read the Valvoline VR1 "racing oil" still has the old levels of Zddp in it for flat tappet cam cars.
 
Trust me, there was enough oil in it, or the rods would have been hanging out of the pan. BS
It was a fresh 360 and the side of the piston was melted and gone on one cylinder the engine had no wear and no oil on the stick. I drove this truck on all snow days to work and when ever I needed to haul or tow something. I unplugged the oil sending unit because I was sick of seeing the light on.

At Carlisle The guy had a 318 running on an engine stand for 3 days without a oil pan. I have seen him there since with a slant six also. "Prolong" Give a try.
 
I will not prolong here with further comments, except to say that your son runs an engine shop?
 
Need more info for an answer
What engine? What year? Any obvious modifications?
 
I will not prolong here with further comments, except to say that your son runs an engine shop?
My son was in his mid teens when this happened. Long time ago. The engine was a fresh 360 from a lil red. I was flat out pulling a trailer up hill on the way to Carlisle when it happened. I was half way there. It took a full case of oil to get there.
 
Generally speaking, I don't like any oil additive at all. It changes the viscosity and chemical makeup. If you run 10x30 and add in an additive, it's not 10w30 anymore. You'd have to send it in and get it analyzed. I do like and recommend sea foam, but that's a little different. It's not meant to be permanent. You run it for a given period, then dump it out on the next oil change. Plus, it's such a light viscosity, it's not changing much, if anything. The bottom line though has already been said. Run the correct oil to start with and keep it changed regularly. That's the only right answer.
 
1969 318 bone stock 2 bbl with a new timing chain and water pump 79k miles. I was told by the 2nd owner that the engine and transmission was never taken out of the car.
Any quality 10W-30 oil that does contains ZDDP.
Valvoline VR-1 is good example, there are many others.
Dont waste your money on additives
Do spend your hard earned money on a good oil filter. I was in the engine industry for close to 40 years and always have used WIX filters. I like the internals of their filters and I have never seen a total failure. Dont trust the crap filters they sell at some big box store.
Good luck
 
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