Internal voltage regulator

-
7

70Duster340

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2005
Messages
459
Reaction score
78
Location
Cortland, Ohio
Is it worth the cost and time? My Duster has the Direct Connection blue voltage regulator, which I understand is only for racing applications. I could replace it, but nowadays I'm not sure which unit is reliable. I considered doing the internal voltage regulator conversion, but I see that it's apparently only for the square back version. I currently have the round back version.
So... do I need to pick up a square back version, or would an external regulator be a better option? If that's the case, which voltage regulator is a reliable unit?
Thanks
 
Both are fine and can be made to work well. The internal regulated alternator requires a very large charge wire and has few benefits in my eyes. I would just get a stock solid state regulator and call it a day.
 
remytherat said:
Both are fine and can be made to work well. The internal regulated alternator requires a very large charge wire and has few benefits in my eyes. I would just get a stock solid state regulator and call it a day.
Click to expand...
I appreciate the advice. Can you suggest any particular brand? With the poor quality parts out there for sale, I don't know which ones I could trust.
Thanks
 
70Duster340 said:
Is it worth the cost and time? My Duster has the Direct Connection blue voltage regulator, which I understand is only for racing applications. I could replace it, but nowadays I'm not sure which unit is reliable. I considered doing the internal voltage regulator conversion, but I see that it's apparently only for the square back version. I currently have the round back version.
So... do I need to pick up a square back version, or would an external regulator be a better option? If that's the case, which voltage regulator is a reliable unit?
Thanks
Click to expand...
What makes you think you need to change anything? Have you measured the charging voltage? I think the "race only" thing is mostly hype. A regulator is made to regulate voltage, PERIOD. The voltage "needed" by a lead acid battery does not change just because it is in a race car. Make certain the VR is properly grounded and that the supply voltage is actually "same as battery" and I bet it works fine

Other than eliminating one or two wires, I see no advantage to a "one wire." Also, a larger alternator is harder on stock wiring, and the known problems with the ammeter circuit. You MUST use a must larger charge wire with an internal / one wire, unless it has a dedicated sense wire.
 
My reason for asking is because I have read that the Mopar Performance regulator is a "race only" part and not designed for constant use. I'm just trying to avoid any consequences of using it beyond what it was designed for.
 
What the blue unit does is a constant chare of 13.8 out. A regular VR will shut off at usually 14 or so and start back up around 12VDC That way it does not over charge the battery. Hope that helps
 
halifaxhops said:
What the blue unit does is a constant chare of 13.8 out. A regular VR will shut off at usually 14 or so and start back up around 12VDC That way it does not over charge the battery. Hope that helps
Click to expand...
I appreciate your information. Does that mean it will function properly, or will it possibly overcharge the battery?
 
halifaxhops said:
What the blue unit does is a constant chare of 13.8 out. A regular VR will shut off at usually 14 or so and start back up around 12VDC That way it does not over charge the battery. Hope that helps
Click to expand...
Here's why I think it is mostly hype. A VR is SUPPOSED to put out constant voltage. That is why it is called a "voltage regulator. VR's DO NOT SHUT OFF they regulate at a set point, about 13.5--14.2 So if it regulates at 13.8, it should be fine.

Someone once posted that the problem is the think blue paint, and that if you scrape the mounting so that it properly grounds, the problem is solved.
 
Stock regulators are not supposed to run at constant voltage; they should adjust with temperature. Batteries can handle a little more volts when cold. The race regulator may be locked at constant voltage to assume either a trunk mounted battery or that the car is never driven long enough to fully charge the battery.

However, after cutting open a modern Chinese made stock replacement voltage regulator, I found they'd omitted the temperature compensation circuit to save 20 cents or so per part ...
 
So, I'm back to the original question: which VR is reliable? I can see that a lot of the VR's are made in China. Now I don't necessarily have any issues with where it's made, as long as it's made well and with quality components. But I would like to know without having to purchase the product which ones I can rely on.
 
A genuine mopar or nos regulator should be fine. I’m running an old borgwarner unit. You could put up a wanted ad on here for one.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top