Internet bridge from house to shop.

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Sr4440 said:
I guess I should have said, my shop has its own 200 amp service with its own transformer.

Joe
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Point to Point Wireless seem like your best solution.

I have used this at Hartsfield Jackson Airport here in Atlanta for data transfer with the fuel farms and concourses for our Gate EFSO Alarm and fuel shutdown management. Shot across all the north runways.

Fine tight beam and great bandwidth.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1525445-REG/ubiquiti_networks_ubb_us_unifi_building_to_building_bridge.html/?ap=y&ap=y&smp=y&smp=y&lsft=BI:514&gclid=Cj0KCQiAlKmeBhCkARIsAHy7WVtH7b9A6i0wKm1iikezr9U-FP7Zt7Pq29_HyqqzHHwZFgusi4P_QB0aAlPAEALw_wcB

I should say that this solution is one of many, but the Manufacturer of this equipment is Top Notch and will get you a seamless solution!
 
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I ran cat 5 underground cable from router to the garage 200 feet used a straight blade shovel to pry open the ground and a stick to tuck it in 4 to 6 inches deep. After watching the Dish network install there cable this way years ago and it works good I got the cable on ebay heavy underground uv resistant cat 5 with the ends on, at a good deal
 
MILO said:
I ran cat 5 underground cable from router to the garage 200 feet used a straight blade shovel to pry open the ground and a stick to tuck it in 4 to 6 inches deep. After watching the Dish network install there cable this way years ago and it works good I got the cable on ebay heavy underground uv resistant cat 5 with the ends on, at a good deal
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That's how they ran the fiberoptic from the street to my garage wall.

Turns out they were supposed to dig a trench but I figured if it gets cut they will have to come out and replace it so not my problem
 
MILO said:
I ran cat 5 underground cable from router to the garage 200 feet used a straight blade shovel to pry open the ground and a stick to tuck it in 4 to 6 inches deep. After watching the Dish network install there cable this way years ago and it works good I got the cable on ebay heavy underground uv resistant cat 5 with the ends on, at a good deal
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I was thinking about sharp shooting a shallow trench like this.
I already have the blue cat five and a friend loaned me his end crimping tool.

After looking into the bridge setups, The trench will be about the only drawback to hardwire route but on the positive side, I will not have equipment mounted to the side of my house and shop.

Dana67Dart said:
That's how they ran the fiberoptic from the street to my garage wall.

Turns out they were supposed to dig a trench but I figured if it gets cut they will have to come out and replace it so not my problem
Click to expand...
 
I would caution running Ethernet underground with out proper lightning suppression. One hit and the shop and house equipment are toast!
 
MILO said:
I ran cat 5 underground cable from router to the garage 200 feet used a straight blade shovel to pry open the ground and a stick to tuck it in 4 to 6 inches deep. After watching the Dish network install there cable this way years ago and it works good I got the cable on ebay heavy underground uv resistant cat 5 with the ends on, at a good deal
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You can get a 500 foot long spool of Cat6 underground off Ebay for about $80. Ether crimp on a RJ45 on each end or put a Cat5 Data jack on both ends and use jumper's.
Dana67Dart said:
That's how they ran the fiberoptic from the street to my garage wall.

Turns out they were supposed to dig a trench but I figured if it gets cut they will have to come out and replace it so not my problem
Click to expand...
I started with Verzion FiOS back in 2007 up in Redmond WA. 1,000's of installs were just "Spade Cut" 3 inches deep. I had to splice 100's when homeowner thought they were deeper and cut them. The light is invisibale but VERY strong and will burn you and do major eye damage. It is like +14Db. One cut fiber cable did set some straw grass on fire.
 
Dave_J said:
You can get a 500 foot long spool of Cat6 underground off Ebay for about $80. Ether crimp on a RJ45 on each end or put a Cat5 Data jack on both ends and use jumper's.

I started with Verzion FiOS back in 2007 up in Redmond WA. 1,000's of installs were just "Spade Cut" 3 inches deep. I had to splice 100's when homeowner thought they were deeper and cut them. The light is invisibale but VERY strong and will burn you and do major eye damage. It is like +14Db. One cut fiber cable did set some straw grass on fire.
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Fiber Good! CAT6 300', not good!
 
Cat 5 cable has more twist than Cat3 and uses 2 pair inside of the 4 pairs. Most are UTP (UN-Shielded Twisted Pair)

Cat5e is 10 times faster than Cat5 due to twist and it uses all 4 pairs (8 wires of the 8). Most are UTP but some are FTP

Cat6 is 100 times better than Cat5 due to tighter twist and real separation of the 4 pairs. Some are FTP (Foil shielded Twisted Pair) or STP (Shielded with a braided metal like coax).
Most have a copper wire inside called a DRAIN and must be bonded at the Distribution Frame end. Any high current will flow to ground, like LIGHTNING.

You jack or crimp Cat6 the same as Cat5, same RJ45. Its the cable between the jacks that matters.

I have terminated 25 pair Cat5 cables on the old AT&T 66M blocks. AT&T 110 blocks are better.
 
OP is needing 100 feet from house to steel walled shop/barn.

Unless you have $$,$$$ to spend for a FIBER network inside your house and barn, Cat6 is good.

CAT6 supports 10 Gigabit Ethernet, but only up to a distance of 164 feet. After 164 feet, CAT6’s speed is limited to the same as CAT5e at 1 Gigabit. But 1 Gigabit is still fast for most things.

But Cat6A is good for 10 Gigabit Ethernet over the full distance of 328 feet. But $$ per foot.

Is anyone using 10 Gigabit to stream Youtube or read FABO???? The FULL 10G?


Wants over Needs IMHO.

My house and garage is wired with Cat5e and its faster than my wireless in most places in the house. Works fine with AOL. ;)

But if you limit distant cable runs to 25 feet or less, even the older Cat5 will give over 1Gigabit speeds all day. Most non-fiberoptic customers will only get 12 to 300 Mbps download speed from their Internet Providers, thats much less than 1 Gigabit.

I have Ixfinity at a "UP TO" speed of 400 Mbps. The fastest I have ever gotten was 275 Mbps when everyone in the neighborhood is at work or school. After 5PM it gets knocked down to 150 Mbps.
 
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Dave_J said:
Cat 5 cable has more twist than Cat3 and uses 2 pair inside of the 4 pairs. Most are UTP (UN-Shielded Twisted Pair)

Cat5e is 10 times faster than Cat5 due to twist and it uses all 4 pairs (8 wires of the 8). Most are UTP but some are FTP

Cat6 is 100 times better than Cat5 due to tighter twist and real separation of the 4 pairs. Some are FTP (Foil shielded Twisted Pair) or STP (Shielded with a braided metal like coax).
Most have a copper wire inside called a DRAIN and must be bonded at the Distribution Frame end. Any high current will flow to ground, like LIGHTNING.

You jack or crimp Cat6 the same as Cat5, same RJ45. Its the cable between the jacks that matters.

I have terminated 25 pair Cat5 cables on the old AT&T 66M blocks. AT&T 110 blocks are better.
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SR4440, What in my post deserves a X?
 
With Internet provision from most Telephone companies you can get ADSL at maybe 25 Mbps Bonded. You must have 2 clean and short distance cable pairs from the Telephone Switch and have two clean pairs of Cat3 in house wires from the Demark to the Jack.

With Cable TV provision internet you are limited to the distance from the nearest fiberoptic fed 'NODE" and the size of the Coax in the street. Coax is very limited on bandwidth and you share that max bandwidth with many others.

Fiber Optic uses just 3 colors and using packet switching "Space and Time Division" to give "UP TO" 10 Gigabits. These "Feeder Fibers" leave the Switching Office on 1 glass fiber and go to a Splitter Cabinet where it is split into 15 to 32 "Distribution Fibers". One distribution fiber is sent to a terminal near your house/shop. Yes you do share that 10 Gig but again it is packet switched so your data is not shared and it never fills the whole bandwidth of the 1 Feeder Fiber. Each splitter cabinet may have 20 Feeder Fibers for 200 homes/business. On the side of the house is a ONT (Optical Network Termanal) that is powered by your house power. It takes those 3 colors of laser light and converts it into usable services like TV, Voice and Internet. If they ever need more than 10 G on 1 Feeder Fiber, they just add 3 more colors, and 3 more colors.....

Power Outages are another issue with ADSL and Cable Coax. When the power goes out the NODE drops out. Even running your Generator does not feed power to the NODE. If you live within 3 miles from a true Switching Office then your Generator MAY get you back on line but most NODE's out where I live do not have Gen Backup.

Fiber Optics are fed from the Switching Office and are passive light, no electric power.
The light signal can go up to 15 miles before a booster is needed. It is a special LED that puts out enough power to light grass on fire and will burn your skin in 5 seconds.
You can NOT see the spectrum of these lights. An old saying, "Do not look at the laser light with your remaining good eye"
Since it is passive light and the ONT at your wall is powered by inside power, if you fire up your generator you have FULL SERVICES. The switching Office has a HUGE Battery Backup system to take over when commercial power drops, then a HUGE V12 diesel Genarator fires up to power up the areas networks. Most have 5,000 to 10,000 gallons of diesel.
 
Dave_J said:
With Internet provision from most Telephone companies you can get ADSL at maybe 25 Mbps Bonded. You must have 2 clean and short distance cable pairs from the Telephone Switch and have two clean pairs of Cat3 in house wires from the Demark to the Jack.

With Cable TV provision internet you are limited to the distance from the nearest fiberoptic fed 'NODE" and the size of the Coax in the street. Coax is very limited on bandwidth and you share that max bandwidth with many others.

Fiber Optic uses just 3 colors and using packet switching "Space and Time Division" to give "UP TO" 10 Gigabits. These "Feeder Fibers" leave the Switching Office on 1 glass fiber and go to a Splitter Cabinet where it is split into 15 to 32 "Distribution Fibers". One distribution fiber is sent to a terminal near your house/shop. Yes you do share that 10 Gig but again it is packet switched so your data is not shared and it never fills the whole bandwidth of the 1 Feeder Fiber. Each splitter cabinet may have 20 Feeder Fibers for 200 homes/business. On the side of the house is a ONT (Optical Network Termanal) that is powered by your house power. It takes those 3 colors of laser light and converts it into usable services like TV, Voice and Internet. If they ever need more than 10 G on 1 Feeder Fiber, they just add 3 more colors, and 3 more colors.....

Power Outages are another issue with ADSL and Cable Coax. When the power goes out the NODE drops out. Even running your Generator does not feed power to the NODE. If you live within 3 miles from a true Switching Office then your Generator MAY get you back on line but most NODE's out where I live do not have Gen Backup.

Fiber Optics are fed from the Switching Office and are passive light, no electric power.
The light signal can go up to 15 miles before a booster is needed. It is a special LED that puts out enough power to light grass on fire and will burn your skin in 5 seconds.
You can NOT see the spectrum of these lights. An old saying, "Do not look at the laser light with your remaining good eye"
Since it is passive light and the ONT at your wall is powered by inside power, if you fire up your generator you have FULL SERVICES. The switching Office has a HUGE Battery Backup system to take over when commercial power drops, then a HUGE V12 diesel Genarator fires up to power up the areas networks. Most have 5,000 to 10,000 gallons of diesel.
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So I have fiber to my home and router in my home.
Can I not run a cat5 from that router to another router in my shop?
 
dowboy1970 said:
So I have fiber to my home and router in my home.
Can I not run a cat5 from that router to another router in my shop?
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Yes.

Routing the cable may be the hard part. At 100 feet you will get almost 700 Mbps transfer speed between the two routers. And most Cat5 cable is not Direct Bury and will rot out.

If the two routers use different SSID's you will not be able to print anything from the shop to a Printer in the house. They must both be the same LAN.
A lot of new routers have 'MESH' where they all, up to 6 I think, have the same SSID and auto switch to the closest one if you move the laptop around.
 
Dave_J said:
A lot of new routers have 'MESH' where they all, up to 6 I think
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I tried a mesh setup. At my house to have a wireless router on each floor.

The trouble I found was (at least with my brand of router) there was no way to use Mac address filtering on the second router. So it made for a basically wide-open but password protected wifi.
 
Years ago I had a Tier 2 Microsoft tech have installed 2 Verizon Fios Fiber drops to his house. This was when 25 Meg was top speed. So 50 Megs at $400 a month. His job was to fix 'Game Company' Issues with Win7 so he was paid to sit at home and play the latest games. He showed me that he could walk into a room and shoot everyone then walk out and be shooting everyone in that room before the last victims knew they were dead on ADSL speeds.

So he fed both into a dual WAN router and ran the antenna leads to 2 used surplus CELL Phone tower antennas. It required some special adapters. These 2 Cell antennas were mounted in his attic pointing down and had aluminum reflective shields on the sides to limit the spread angles to 30 Degrees. They were like +45 Db gain. His house had old ALCOA Aluminum siding and a metal roof so no signal outside.

I have in the past removed the stubby factory +3Db antennas and replaced them with +15 Db ones. The wifi router does get hot so best to tune the output power some.
 
dowboy1970 said:
So I have fiber to my home and router in my home.
Can I not run a cat5 from that router to another router in my shop?
Click to expand...

Dave_J said:
Yes.

Routing the cable may be the hard part. At 100 feet you will get almost 700 Mbps transfer speed between the two routers. And most Cat5 cable is not Direct Bury and will rot out.

If the two routers use different SSID's you will not be able to print anything from the shop to a Printer in the house. They must both be the same LAN.
A lot of new routers have 'MESH' where they all, up to 6 I think, have the same SSID and auto switch to the closest one if you move the laptop around.
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Do you already have the 150 to 175 foot piece of Cat5?

If the shop is 100 feet from the shop, add in the distance from the house router and where the shops router is, adding any ups, down walls and any bends. A 100 foot as the crow flies will end up much farther when you pull the wire.

If not spend the extra money and get direct bury Cat6. It has much better speeds at this distance. It also has a thin metal "DRAIN" wire that you can BOND at your Fiber Modem's Coax so if lightning does hit most of the spike will bleed out to the outside demarcation point.

When stapling this cable, do not dimple the sheath with the staples as this WILL slow down the bandwidth. The staples must be loose enough to move the cable back and forth. Never kink it. Keep all bends at a 6 inch diameter or MORE.

Arrow makes a T25A stapler for Cat5 and Cat 6 cable that does not dimple the sheath. The old T25 stapler will dimple it.
 
Dowboy, if you were near Auburn WA I'd drop by with some Cat6 Direct Bury. I just bought another 500 foot box for $75 (plus tax) off Ebay. I also have the Arrow brand T25A stapler.
 
Dave_J said:
Dowboy, if you were near Auburn WA I'd drop by with some Cat6 Direct Bury. I just bought another 500 foot box for $75 (plus tax) off Ebay. I also have the Arrow brand T25A stapler.
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I have about 300 foot left of cat5 but it is the blue. I could put it in 1/2 pex for conduit.
I do not need the best of the best in the shop. I have nothing at the moment and have to either open doors and stand in doorway or go outside so anything is better than what I have at the moment.

I thank all you guys for the input and help.
 
dowboy1970 said:
Has anyone delt with these before?
I have about 100 foot between house and shop and need good service in the metal shop.
This should help with phone service as well.
At the current moment nothing works in there as far as cell service.

If anybody has first hand experience with this, I would love to here what you know and maybe what system you are using and if you are happy with it.

Thank you in advance FABO. :thumbsup:
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If you have an open port on your house router run it to an all weather AP and mount it on the outside of the house with a line of sight to the shop. Then mount an all weather range extender on the shop and set it to connect to your network, it then connects to network switch in the shop that can hard connect the computer. you could also connect another AP to the switch and have WIFI in the shop.
I did this at my business to get internet service to my shop across the street.
 
1969383S said:
I would caution running Ethernet underground with out proper lightning suppression. One hit and the shop and house equipment are toast!
Click to expand...
I used this at the garage

www.tupavco.com

Tupavco TP302 Ethernet Surge Protector PoE++ Gigabit RJ45 Lightning Suppressor

Ethernet Surge Protector is a surge protection device (SPD) that is inserted inline on an RJ45 CAT6/CAT5/CAT5e cable to prevent damage of electronic networking equipment. Powerful surges that the device protects against include direct lightning strikes, voltage spikes, or PoE overvoltages.
www.tupavco.com www.tupavco.com
 
I have an Orbi at home with 2 satelites and a plug-in extender in the shop which is about 150' from the house (and a metal building). I have full bar wifi everywhere
 
My shop is over 100' from the house. I bought a $50 Netgear wifi extender, which shares the same network as the house and I can stream in the shop.

Easy peasy.
 
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