SIOUX Grinder and Driver.
Mine is so old, i don't thing they even put a date of manufacture. and if they did it was long ago and rubbed off.
Intro to a port job
- Thread starter MOPAROFFICIAL
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Mine is so old, i don't thing they even put a date of manufacture. and if they did it was long ago and rubbed off.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
The holder/arbor needs changed if more than .0015 worn inside. Pilots too, the wear stacks up
No dryer plug either, huh?
RAMM
Well-Known Member
I like my valvejobs like I like my bacon --crisp. Pan seared scallops too--crisp. J.Rob
I'm feeling your pain on that one brother.... My old quik way stuff was just like that. I sold it to a guy buying stuff to take to south america.
I SCORED a full Sioux seat grinder set to replace it.
Cylinder Head Supply ...is often cheaper than Goodson.
got a couple flat head pilots too, I see
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I love that top cut!
3 prong mine is a4 prong.
Could convert it.
But need to focus on leveling and pouring concrete, before the snow flies.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
True, the stones for one.
Mine has outdated size holders, no more stones available. No worries, I bought adapters they sell for that.. so I can use the newer 13/16 stuff..which I bought some of those too. Nickle chrome and some finish stones.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Id hope so, scallops suck any other way.
You have your seat width at .050 or .06?
I'm thinking multi angle on the exhaust 15,30,45,60. 0 even.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
If you can get all those angles in there, you can then polish them off to a radius.
Most important is the seat. Grind just enough to clean up. Then adjust the position and width of the seat with the top and bottom cuts.
Mine is the old square drive, grinder/driver. And them grinders are heavy!!!!
Vary easy to let the grinder hang a little. Cauesing the square drive to put a in even load on stem/driver. By floating it. By rolling it a round(best I can describe)you can tell when you are putting it on a bind. Once I learned this, seats be come way better. Star drive grinder are way easier to us.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
I cut the 45, top cut 30 for the 'valve' seat size, narrow the seat with the 60. Theres more than one way to skin a cat though.
a lot of places just touch the 45 on heads that aren't in too bad shape... or dealership work.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
That was me branching. Lol. I like the idea of a radius under the seat I think Mopar used to sell some seats like that , I know somebody did or does still. When you bring the valve up 300 lift and you have that 30 and 15 it looks real nice against it. and I believe that picks it up there. Now back to that crisp top cut, the lip on the short side chamber, it gets in the way for milling! Lol you can knock that off, put the out a valve job lower and not lose and maybe gain in peak even. You'll never get a j head to sub 64cc with that 30* funnel at the top. Material permitting, I think the exhaust would do better lower too. Not buried/sunk, just with the material for the angles and where the spent naturally wants to go into the higher hole so to speak. Lol
Put a seat in and that lip becomes non existent, like my '70 for '71 j heads, they go up to 280's, seats on both,
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MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
right on man, I sent that guy a message so we'll see. Either way I got that adapter coming in the mail!
Are those adapters still $80 a pop? Man, I bought 2 of those... ouch !
On a small block, I use a 15 degree top cut for size, the rest is the same.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
59.99, pays for itself 10 fold.
famous bob
mopar misfit
What about that ridge around the valve seat ?
RAMM
Well-Known Member
What about it? It's a remnant from the factory machining. J.Rob
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