Is connecting rod bushings needed?

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Bad Sport said:
You keep saying no advantage. Out of curiosity why did they make both pressed and floating to begin with?
Click to expand...
What I would like to know, is what POSSIBLE advantage you think you are gaining running "Steel on Steel" to Float a Rod ?

You can answer your own question here ?
The quick answer is NOBODY ever made "Floating" Rods the way you are planning ? So, any ADVANTAGES you may think you are gaining ? is NOT apples to apples now is it ?

(Other than Farm Implement Engines)
WHO ?
What Factory ?
Ever offered a Performance Engine with "Steel on Steel" Floated Rods ?
NONE I ever heard of, but I am all ears ?
Obviously,
it would have been FAR easier at production....for Factory "Performance" Engines to very simply run floated "Steel on Steel", rather than go to all the trouble and expense of acquiring and fitting "Bushings" ??

You do whatever your "Guy" wants to do...
but IMO,
I wouldn't use "Steel on Steel" as a way to " Float" Rods in a Fawking Wheel Barrow !
I have a reputation to protect. Do it PROPERLY... or don't do it AT ALL... simple as that !

BEST advice I can give you....Get him to give you a written warranty on the steel on steel "Floated" Pins OK ?
 
so your concern is the pin getting tight in the rod hole or the pin wearing out the pin hole? thanks
 
Funny you bring up farm equipment. I have a 49 Ford 8N with the original flat four. I rebuilt it every nut and bolt. It had bushed rods from the factory. That engine is governed at 2200 RPM, BTW.
 
...I think if I wanted to build an engine using floating pins, I'd just buy some new H beam rods...or was that already mentioned and I missed it?
 
Your machinest's reccomendation is fine. As mentioned ealier make sure there is plenty of lube on the pins for start up and use a good break in oil like Gibbs BR. Good luck on your build.
 
Darren said:
so your concern is the pin getting tight in the rod hole or the pin wearing out the pin hole? thanks
Click to expand...

Look, I am done here OK ?

I have covered everything from TODAYS oils(not 30 yrs ago), to the 1053 steel Rod oon the Tool steel Pin, to Piston Alloy, in your case High Silicon Hypereutectic, although it would not matter HS 4032 or lower silicon 2618 Forged.

I have told you my opinion here, but it seems opinions are like *SSholes, and everybody seems to have one ? including mine ?
but by all means,
You DO.... whatever your "Guy" wants to do !

All I know, is I get paid $25 to $50K per Engine, all BB Mopars, that's ALL we do ! from resto to Competition Eliminator and everything Mopar in between, and again, ALL our experience over 35 years is pretty much Mopar.
I view "Steel on Steel" as NOT ONLY an unacceptable method of "Floating" Rods....
but FAR INFERIOR..
to simply maintaining the Pressed Pin in the Rod, and Pin-Fitting the 1.094" Pins in the Piston at .001"

I'll stick with...
"can't fix stoopid, only try to adjust it with a 2 X 4"
IMO,
so much for the Internet as the information Highway, when anyone with a Keyboard can be a professional Engine Builder / Machinist.

GET A WRITTEN WARRANTY ! past 20,000 street miles covering the "Floated" Steel on Steel Pins !
 
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