Is the spool mount k-member worth modifying/reinforcing and what should I change on the suspension brakes?

[migsBIG]

So I’m starting to pick up some parts for my 1973 Duster frontend rebuild and wondering what is worth doing to it? Here is my list so far.
Spare spool mount k-member. Little banged up, but will clean up and could be reinforced or modified if you guys think it’s worth it.
I have the Magnum Force tubular upper control arms (I’ve had them on two other cars and love it).
Firm feel stage two box I’m going to pull from my 1970 CUDA to swap in.
I have stock 1973 disc spindles and MF dropped spindles on the shelf.
Stock front swaybar.
Looking at either Blistein or Viking shocks.
Looking to upgrade to 11.78 front rotor and thinking of the DR Diff Wilwood Caliper conversion to improve front stopping power.
Not sure what rubber components to use since MOOG is hit and miss a few too many times for my liking.
Bought the Schumacher spool brackets while they were vending at the Spring Fling CPW show last weekend.
Have a set of Magnum Force Subframe connectors coming in for the car to help stiffen it up a little.
Probably send the booster out for rebuild while everything is apart.
Upgrading to aftermarket torsion bars, seen some nice ones on eBay.

Any parts I missed, suggestions and modification would be appreciated.

 

[rumblefish360]

Reinforcement plates welded to the bottom of the lower control on? That could be done. As to the key frame itself, I’m not really sure. I’ve never had an issue with them.

Perhaps check with Mancini for bushings to see what’s out there. I’m sure they’re asking top dollar, but, at least you know if they have them someone else does.

 

[junkyardhero]

i like to box the steering mount, add a skid plate and shore up some of the perimeter welding.

i've had good luck with prothane poly LCA bushings. proforge makes nice ones too and they have greaseable pins that they sell (which are a nice addition to any bushing besides stock rubber). unless you want to go delrin, then i'd hit up bergman auto craft and get their kit.

on the steering bits, i've been installing mevotech supreme or delco gold stuff lately. if i can find OG mcquay norris i'll use those. TRW, dorman are still okay. stay away from delphi and centric if you can.

energy suspension for the swaybar mounts and endlinks.

anything over .990 bars you'll need good shocks.

 

[72bluNblu]

The K frame is absolutely worth reinforcing. I fully seam weld mine, as well as boxing in the steering box mount and adding reinforcing plates to the ends of the LCA pivot tubes. Some of that is probably overkill, but the steering box mounts on one of my '74 K frames had cracked and broken loose from the rest of the K frame which allowed the entire steering box to move around. So I would say that boxing in the steering box mount and adding the plates to the LCA pivot tubes is absolutely worthwhile for pretty much everyone. Additional seam welding and reinforcements are good too, but more relevant if you're going to run more of a pro-touring style. This thread has a bunch of pictures of reinforced K frames

k-frame strengthening

Drop spindles are a complete waste of time if you're planning on running larger torsion bars, even if you plan on lowering the car. The drop spindles are all a 2" drop, which is pretty substantial. If you use those spindles and don't drop the car a full 2", you're increasing bump steer and reducing your camber gain, both of which will be noticeable. I ran 2" drop spindles on my Challenger for awhile before I knew better, they make for worse suspension geometry than just lowering the car with the torsion bar adjusters and using the larger torsion bars to account for the loss of suspension travel. I wouldn't go smaller than PST's 1.03" bars personally, I've run 1" bars and even those are fairly soft with modern tires.

The factory 2.75" piston calipers have more clamp force than Wilwood 4 pistons by the math. And they have seals and were designed for prolonged street use. The upgrade to the 11.75" rotors is a good one, use a set of 76+ 2.75" piston calipers and you're good to go.

Proforged is making decent replacement suspension and steering components, they don't make everything but I would use them instead of Moog if you want to keep rubber bushings.

 

[tonysrt]

You may have to go to 15" wheels to use the 11 3/4 rotors.

 

[junkyardhero]

You may have to go to 15" wheels to use the 11 3/4 rotors.

i'll add to this not all 15" rims fit either!

you'll definitely need to go to 15 for the bigger brakes though.

 

[72bluNblu]

You may have to go to 15" wheels to use the 11 3/4 rotors.

i'll add to this not all 15" rims fit either!

you'll definitely need to go to 15 for the bigger brakes though.

You absolutely need 15” rims to run the 11 3/4” rotors, minimum.

I seem to recall there are some reproduction 15” wheels out there that have issues with caliper clearance too.

 

[tonysrt]

So as you see nothing is cut and dry changing somethings on our old cars. Change one thing and it opens a can of worms. I went from drums to 11 3/4 discs on a 71 Cuda, but it had 15" wheels already so no problem.