I have a good electric fan on it now and it’s still overheating. A shroud won’t fit with the electric fan.
Define "good". And a shroud will fit. It doesn't touch the fan. It goes around it.
I have a good electric fan on it now and it’s still overheating. A shroud won’t fit with the electric fan.
I have a 2500cfm fan. Doesn’t the electric fan need to be pushed back a little to fit onto the shroud?Define "good". And a shroud will fit. It doesn't touch the fan. It goes around it.
I have a 2500cfm fan. Doesn’t the electric fan need to be pushed back a little to fit onto the shroud?
Yeah the other fans that are stronger are thicker fans and they wouldn’t work. What was the fan you suggested?No. 2500 isn't near enough. I thought we went over this already.
Also is that bottom outlet hose too long going to the water pump? I was thinking that was one of the reasons it was overheating. The hoses are too long.Yeah the other fans that are stronger are thicker fans and they wouldn’t work. What was the fan you suggested?
Yeah the other fans that are stronger are thicker fans and they wouldn’t work. What was the fan you suggested?
I can’t find a fan with 4000 cfm. I looked on eBay and Amazon.Again, you do not have to mount the fan with the motor aligned with the water pump pulley. You have TONS of room for a GOOD fan. Mount it so the motor is offset from the water pump pulley. I didn't suggest a specific fan, only "something" that moves around 4000 CFM.
Yes it cools back off when I’m driving."I can't"
There's your problem right there. Like they say where I come from, "Caint never could". Good God man, you've got the same internet I do. Summit Racing has a PILE of fans in that CFM range.
Does the car still cool back off going down the road?
Yes it cools back off when I’m driving.
check for lower hose sucking shut when engine rpm raise
It has to do with what year it was built, not the displacement. Specifically, engines up through model year '69 cars had the shorter cast iron water pump. They also had a fan with the blades notched to better clear the 'bubble top' radiators.Yeah the cars had a 340 or 318 and the motor was farther back.
You could switch to a 67- 68 timming cover and cast iron water pump, a bit sorter. Or as 67dart273 said move to fan to one side.
OR you could got rid of the BS cross flow aluminum radiator and electric fan and get an oem copper brass rad, mechanical fan and oem shroud and start enjoying your car.
That's what I don't got about this post.LA 273,318,340,360, all the same size block
That's what I don't got about this post.
The factory fit everything in there just fine. The trans and engine mounts would set the for and aft location of the engine.
Is there any way to put them in backwards moving the engine forward?
Yeah the cars had a 340 or 318 and the motor was farther back. If it was back a inch more I wouldn’t have this issue. The engine is all the way back on the engine mounts.
That's what I don't got about this post.
The factory fit everything in there just fine. The trans and engine mounts would set the for and aft location of the engine.
Is there any way to put them in backwards moving the engine forward?
Maybe the motor mount brackets on the wrong side of the ears on the block?
I might ditch that clear fuel filter thou. Yikes.Like this idea: ^^^^^
Get an oem copper brass rad, mechanical fan and oem shroud and start enjoying your car.
View attachment 1715723642
Maybe the motor mount brackets on the wrong side of the ears on the block?