I have the K frame off. Is there an easy way to degrease and clean it before sandblasting? I'm thinking of the inside also. Or am I destined to clean it like I did the other parts with solvents and a wire brush?
Is there an easy way to degrease and de rust a K frame?
- Thread starter Lasalle
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attenuated
Attenuated
In the past I have taken my K-member to a machine shop that has a hot tank. Then use a MAP gas torch to ensure most/all of the grease has been removed. Hope this helps.
JJ
JJ
briwill70
Well-Known Member
Oven cleaner.
X2 on the oven cleaner. I use Easy-Off in a pump spray bottle (not the aerosol version). Let it sit a while and hose it off. A pressure washer or car wash helps get all the nooks and crannies.
69383valiant
It is what it is...
Car wash..
jbc426
Well-Known Member
I have used that purple water rinseable degreaser for years now. It works great, just be careful when using it on aluminum stuff. I've also used Ez-Off oven cleaner on stubborn stuff. I finish up with a power washer either at home or at the local self service car wash. For rusty stuff that has had all the loose stuff removed by scrubbing and powerwashing, I use the chemicals that convert it to a black finish, like Marine Grade Ospho.
My old power washer pump had failed, so I picked up a $400 gas powered power washer from Harbor Freight. It works great. Need to keep good gas in it with either stabilizer or run it dry. The pump itself needs to have an anti corrosion product run through it before long storage as well.
Summit carries a low gloss, catylized black chassis paint that I am about to cover a modified '95 Dodge Dakota frame with for a '59 Dodge Sweptline upgrade.
Minercar
LargeDreamsSmallCapital
Sand Blast it
Car wash, simple green and scrubbing. Wire brushed to get the little corners and welds cleaned out.
Eastwood to encapsulate everything....
Eastwood to encapsulate everything....
Thanks to all who responded. On Wednesday the weather is supposed to be warm so I am going to get some "Superclean" and take the K frame to the car wash. I called around to three places with hot tanks but nobody wanted to do it. Because the world is upside down these days I am running into that a lot with my car projects. A lot of places are becoming very picky as to the jobs they want to do. One reason is they can't hire enough help.
I did the oven cleaner/pressure washer thing and still had grime on the inside of the seams. I was trimming for the Milodon road race pan and seam welding anyway so I used a chisel to pop open the seams between the spot welds. This gave me access to the pinch. I also used a MAP gas torch to burn any grime out so the welds would be cleaner.
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
Simple green, hot water, the wire wheel on my angle grinder. I used Rust-Oleum oil based primer an then gloss black. The gallon ones you get at Lowe's. I thinned it with acetone per the instructions and sprayed it. Worked great.
Jim Lusk
Well-Known Member
I had a hot tank. I still have access to it, but I need to hook up the electric to it. Oven cleaner and pressure washer will do a decent job on the outside, but it has to soak to get the inside. You'll never get the seams completely cleaned out without fire. I recently had one blasted at a local powder coater. Came out real nice.
After degrease and pressure washing, hit it with a propane weed burner. This will burn all of the grease from inside the seams. Never try to sand blast a greasy part. It wont work and you will contaminate your blast cabinet.
I used Superclean today at the carwash. It got a lot more off than I thought it would. It did not get it all off. I will still have to do some wire brush work with solvents. After it is degreased I don't know what I will do. Sandblast and Por -15, maybe powder coat, maybe just chassis black paint. I have to figure out how to clean out and paint the inside.
Degrease and clean may be a challenge everyone has their favorite solvent or other workaround, then usually blast out as much as you can with a pressure washer. Eastwood has adapters for their internal frame coating that allow you to snake the sprayer inside. I've not used it but will probably try it out as I get to that stage.
Eastwood Internal Frame Anti-Rust Coating, 14 oz. Spray
67dartgtgo
Well-Known Member
Hot tanking was the best way to go 20 or so years ago, now it's not nearly as good because of the environmental solvent restrictions imposed on the use of good working stuff. It might be better now to do it the DIY methods and then burn out the remaining seam grease/oil. After I had mine hot tanked a couple years ago I still had to do a home solvent scrub and clean, flame burn and wire wheel to make sure it was as spotless as I could get it. Still it had a pocket or two of grease spots along the seam that didn't like welding so much. Hey...we do the best we can.
The superclean at the car wash took a lot of the crud off. I went around it with a small wire brush and solvent to clean up what remained. The control arm bushing was bad and the metal rubbing made the hole oblong. I fixed it by welding on a small blob of metal and grinding it down to proper size with a dremel tool. I sandblasted the K frame in my sandblast cabinet. Then I used a siphon blast out of a bucket outside to get the inside and places I couldn't get in the cabinet. It was tight in the cabinet. I was happy with how clean it was inside and out.
There are easier ways to clean and derust these parts but they involve a lot more time and money. In the end I accomplished the job quicker and for free by doing it at home. My end result was the same or better than having it done. Now on to painting.
There are easier ways to clean and derust these parts but they involve a lot more time and money. In the end I accomplished the job quicker and for free by doing it at home. My end result was the same or better than having it done. Now on to painting.
I seriously considered using this to paint the inside. I decided I don't need it and there are enough openings to paint the inside with sponge brushes taped to a stick. This is another example of an expensive method to save a few minutes painting. Just like finding a hot tank to clean off the crud. It would have been more time and money to do it the easy way.
Totally agree. Great for taking off undercoating also then pressure was it off. Use Easy off cheap ones do not work as well.
Cool... yeah I'm a huge fan of the low- cost what you have approach..
. The reinforcement kit on my K created a lot more enclosed space than OEM.
matthon
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Cut access holes and weld the rear of the LCA tubes to the K. None of the reinforcement kits address this.
I did it on the first page, here is how I 'painted' the inside:
'67 Fry Fix
I did it on the first page, here is how I 'painted' the inside:
'67 Fry Fix
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
First of all, great job. There are lots of ways to paint it, just make sure you use a good quality paint. Second, thank you VERY MUCH for following up and sharing with us what you did. It doesn't happen often enough. It is always nice to see someone ask a question, get lots of responses, digest the information, and then choose a path and share the results with us.
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