Is there any other rear that will work in my '65 barracuda??????

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65barracudadude

65barracudadude

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I just cant afford to purchase an A-body 8 3/4 rear for my car right now. And may not be able to for a long time. It just is not in the cards. I'm going to be trading off all of my AMC goodies just to get a motor and trans. My question is: Is there any other rear out there that will work in my '65 barracuda without having to have it cut down???? I know that there is someone on this site that has done something about this issue. If I had a Duster,Dart sport, or demon I could very easily just use a B-body rear. But I dont have that kind of car. I mean you hear about people making other kinds of rear ends work on all kinds of other cars. There has to be something that will work on our early A's. I have heard from a reliable source on here that any A series mopar truck/van rear is the same exact length. But I have not had anyone else confirm that. I'm going to hopefully getting my V8 real soon and the rear end is going to be just as important as a V8 radiator. I've thrashed 3 7 1/4 rears with just stock 318's. This motor is going to be a Non-stock 360 W/904. I've got to come up with something. I hope there is a cheaper solution. Please help me????????? Thanks.
 
8 1/4 works fine. If you get desperate a ford 8" will work. Tons of old Mavericks, Comets had them. I would stick with the Mother Mopars's 8 1/4. I am in the same boat as you $$ and I am considering one. Still would love to have the 8 3/4 though . this is the first car Ive had without one. 68 RRunner, 64 Fury, 70 Duster all had 489 cased 8 3/4 rears...........ahh those were the days.
 
8 1/4 rear is a good one. Mopar Performance told once on the phone that it should tack 400 horse. It will bolt in, but it will have the bigger bolt pattern. I had an 8 1/4 rear in my car for a little bit. I went 8 3/4, but it's not that there was anything wrong with the 8 1/4. I was just after the dump out the front.
 
Ya, I'm well aware of the 8 1/4. I blew one up in my old '68 barracuda. And ever since that I just dont have any faith at all in them. But I was also pushing about 400-425 HP in that motor though. I dont know. I really dont want large bolt pattern either. I think I'm F-ed. I just dont have the money to get all large bolt pattern. I want front disks and all but it is not in the cards right now. And I've just got to have a V8 in this car. The /6 runs great and everything but I'm just not into it. I've already aquired everything to convert it over to V8 except the radiator, and the V8 gas pedal linkage. I just bought the V8 gas pedal though from someone on here. I dont know. I guess I was hoping that someone would jump on here and confirm that Mopar the A- series trucks and Vans rear ends would be the ticket. I'M REALLY FRUSTRATED!!!!!! I JUST CANNOT LIVE WITH A SLANT SIX IN MY CAR!!!!!! I MUST BE ABLE TO PUT IN THE V8 AND BE ABLE TO AQUIRE THE REST OF THE PARTS!!!!! Back in the day I could go out and find a Duster or something with everything I needed in a day or so. But not anymore. Thanks you guy's. I'm looking for more suggestions.
 
DVJ runs one in his 66 I do believe and he's in the 12's with highway gears. Well, for me it have to stay Mopar.........so 8 3/4 would be what I go for. How much horse are talking about? You may just need to go Dana.
 
I've been watching theads on this subject too because I need to replace my 7 1/4 soon. I've read that A-100 van and truck rears work by just taking the spring perches off the top of the axle and moving them to the bottom, but haven't read anything from anyone that's done it. There was a thread recently about Dakota rears working, but not enough detail on what mods were required. I think in the same thread someone said Granada, Monarch and Versilles rears worked out well for an A-Body swap, but again no details of what mods are required. The most recent I read involved using a Grand Cherokee rear. We really need a thread dedicated to to rear end swaps and the details of what's involved since it's such a common issue for most of us. Hopefully this thread will be the one to start it...
 
65barracudadude said:
I guess I was hoping that someone would jump on here and confirm that Mopar the A- series trucks and Vans rear ends would be the ticket.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately the A series vans and trucks (64-70) 8 & 3/4's are too wide plus they have the spring perches welded on the top of the tubes rather than on the bottom. The shock mounts are welded on the bottom of the tubes. I parted out a 69 A van but did keep the rear end housing in order to get it shortened at a later date.. By the way, most of those older vans had either 3.55s (v8's) or 3.91s (slant 6). The van I parted out had 3.91s which were sold to a gentleman from Sweden. Most A rear ends were peg legs but have seen S.G. in some.
 
A B-body 8.75 will work in your car just fine. My Dart was an old drag car, and probably the first thing they did back in '66 was throw the A-body 8.75 out the door. They wanted the bigger bolt pattern for rear 15 inch slicks. I still have THAT rear , and it is only a half inch wider on both sides. Granted, it is a '65 B-body with a 742 case, but the width of the spring perches is only one inch wider. You can just slide the leafs over to make that .5 inch on either side, or just reverse offset shackles. Also putting in a B-body rear will push the tires out closer to the wheel opening lip, which allows you to utilize a wider tire by using more backspacing.
Worried about two different bolt patterns? Don't.
 
I salvaged a 3.23 8 ¾ center section from a Van (Chrysler dumped a lot of 8 ¾ rears in Truck and Vans in the 70’s) and the housing from an old C body and had the housing and axils cut down to fit my 65 Barracuda. Took some looking around but was actually cheeper than the used A body unit I found at swap meets,even with the machine work.

I looked at using the Van housing but the shock mounts would have to be removed and opted to use the C body insteed.
 
Right on Outsider, I just love to hear from someone that makes me feel at ease with all of this. I will be looking into tracking down a rear end as you stated. OK. Guy's KEEP THEM COMING!!!!!!!!! I KNOW SOMEONE ELSE HAS SOME INPUT HERE!!!!!!!! And by the way, the motor I'll be building will be a budget build. I'll be hopefully getting this 360 and having "lead69" do up a set of 340 X heads for me with a streetable cam and an edelbrock 4 barrel. Nothing major at all. Just above stock specs. Basically the best I can get for my buck. So I just need a rear that will handle it. I wont be drag racing every weekend or anything. I just had an 8 1/4 blow up in my '68 barracuda a number of years ago and I kinda dont trust them. But that car was at 400-425 HP.
 
Seen a B-body rear in an early A myself. They're a little wide but fit.

For "forbidden" parts that come close to bolting in, the 8" or even 9" rear axles found in early Ford Mustangs, the Mavericks and Comets, and the Granada / Monarch / Versailles are the correct width. Never personally tried swapping them in, but I have brought a tape measure to the local boneyard to confirm this.

For shear lunacy, the dimensions suggest a '87-'92 Toyota Supra Turbo rear suspension is about the right width to fit under an A-body. It is about the same width as the B-body rear axle. Not something you'd be able to squeeze in there without a Sawzall and welding torch, but I've seen loonier suspension swaps made to work, and at least you don't have to deal with the challenge of narrowing an IRS. It's not likely to break, but it gets a lot worse traction than Mopar leaf springs behind a high powered motor.
 
Thanks. Ya, I'm also aware of the Ford rear ends. I just cant do it. I'd rather save up pennies for the rest of my life than put a Ford rear in my A-body mopar. I'm just fishing around for someone who can confirm like a oddball mopar that knowone ever thinks of having a rear that will work. I'm really kicking myself for getting rid of most my parts 15 years ago. I had 2 extra A-body 8 3/4's with the sure grips. O'well. KEEP THEM COMING GUY'S!!!!!!!!
 
To me, it Really sounds like;
you would be better to sell the 6 cyl car, and buy one thats already a V8.

As much works as is involved with the Early Abody
with putting a V8 engine in, I doubt I will ever do another V8 engine swap.

Doing a conversion /6 to V8 has to be Much more work. :(

Don't forget the Early Abody you either need to buy some Spitfire headers,
or the 1964-66 273 Drivers side specific exhaust manifolds, the passenger side one most any year will work.

You need the V8 style, dropped steering center link.

Does your car have power steering? That may add another set of conversion hassles, {hoses brackets etc.}.

You will need the shorter 65-66 V8 radiator.{Shorter than 67-76}

You should really change the front torsion bars to the V8 rated ones,
and I suggest you convert to 14inch tires and rims.You might appreciate the tires holding more weight, when you add weight to the car.
I am using 205/70/r14's on my car.

The factory V8 cars in 1964 came with 7.00x13 tall tires,
the 65-66 had an option of 14"s.

I went to the small "Dakota" style starter, when I swapped the 318 in for the worn out 273; they weigh less, use less power
and allow more room for the exhaust and steering components etc.

Lots to consider. Think it over and research the work involved.
Take any time estimate you have, of doing this work and multiply it x 2. :)

ce44.jpg
 
Hey guy's, I may have found an A-body 8 1/4 rear open with 323.1 gears for $100.00. I'm stoked. I just hope it will hold up. I can also get an A-body 8 3/4 for $500.00 but it is an open as well. I think the $100.00 8 1/4 is the ticket.
 
Congrats on the good deal, you can't lose at that price. Where/how did you find it?
 
A few years ago I bought a '64 Dart convertible for parts (it was in really bad shape). I don't now what the rear end was out of but it was an 8 3/4 with an old style hook up to th edrive shaft...is that balland trunion? Anyways I have the rear end and if you live anywhere inthe northwest I can sell it to you for $100.00 if you are interested. I may (I have to look) have the drive shaft also. If I do I will throw it in with th erear end.

Steve
 
hi steve .do you still have this rear end for sale? i am interested.if so send me a pm or e mail. thanks
 
cavemanmoron said:
I went to the small "Dakota" style starter, when I swapped the 318 in for the worn out 273; they weigh less, use less power
and allow more room for the exhaust and steering components etc.
Click to expand...


WHAT YEAR DAKOTA STARTER WORKS FOR THE 318???
 
Hey ----

Why don't you PM me. Maybe we could work out something for payments on the 8 3/4 and maybe even the slots. I want to see your car on the road!!!!

Steve
 
crazybarracuda said:
WHAT YEAR DAKOTA STARTER WORKS FOR THE 318???
Click to expand...

ANy year Dakota pickup starter works.

http://www.partzfinder.com/category_s/56.htm]

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