Is this a good engine for the price

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Pretty sure there's only a few builders for these engines shouldn't be hard to find out there history ...

The sticker on one of the engines (kinda hard to make out) says Beauchamp Motorsports who seem to be not totally unknown
since they are mentioned several times in "How to build big inch Mopar Small Blocks).
There's also some stuff about them on the internet

--> "April 13, 2009. Beauchamp Motorsports is pleased to announce that they will be returning to the race track in 2009 with the familiar Team Mopar colours. A new multi year sponsorship agreement has been signed and will continue the long time association with Mopar along with associate sponsors Mobil 1 and Exide on the #60 Dodge Avenger. " [excerpt]
 
Is there a dyno sheet? You'll wanna see a dyno sheet.

Here's the thing with circle track motors. Some others have touched on this but I'll try and go into more detail.

They are built to run at a SPECIFIC rpm for hours on end. They make max power at one very small area in the RPM band. The car is geared to keep it on that RPM around the track. And then you go race it. Yes they make tones of power. All of it WAY up in the power band.

Now. That's not necessarily a problem. A R5P7 setup making 850 hp at 8500 rpm is still making ok power at "streetable" (4k RPM and under) levels. BUT that's the 850 setup. There's a lot that goes into that. Compression. Cam. Etc. NOW you bump the compression down and take it down to 500 horse. It WILL lose that bottom end. I'm talking worse than a stock 318. IF there hasn't been changes to make it more "streetable". To make it simple 850 horse at 8500 RPM still has good power below 4k. 500 horse at 8500 rpm does not.

And to show you what kind of power you can expect? Here's some dyno sheets from a 743 horse R5P7 setup.
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LOTS of power! But way up there. What about down low?

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Not bad. Good torque. But definitely will lose out to a "street" built setup.

Now imagine what the second dyno pic would read like if it only made 500 horse at 8500 rpm.

Now that's not to say they haven't made appropriate changes to move the power. But I would still wanna see a graph myself. Especially since he mentions 7500 rpm. And how it makes 500 horse on 9.5 compression. To me the only way you're gunna get that is by revving the engine.

That said. Personally I wouldn't have a problem taking a small block to 8k+ RPM on the street. I've taken my 340 to 7k before. But that's just me. Not a lot of guys really wanna rev the absolutely **** out of their engines. And there's all kinds of other problems that come with it besides the engine stress. Crazy rear gears. Crazy high stall. ETC ETC. Just not very "streetable" in many peoples opinion.
 
Looks like they switched to an M1 which is a all aluminum Hemi based create engine you can buy. The reason these engines are being dumped.

I'd say these engines probably could use a cam change depending on your view of streetable. But I imagine the 372 would make 500 hp just north of 6000 rpm which aint crazy high.

My opinion peak power in these ranges
4800-5800 street
5800-6800 street/strip
6800-7800 race
7800 plus pro racing
Could divide the first one further still 4800-5300 mild and 5300-5800 hot street.
 
Looks like they switched to an M1 which is a all aluminum Hemi based create engine you can buy. The reason these engines are being dumped.

I'd say these engines probably could use a cam change depending on your view of streetable. But I imagine the 372 would make 500 hp just north of 6000 rpm which aint crazy high.

My opinion peak power in these ranges
4800-5800 street
5800-6800 street/strip
6800-7800 race
7800 plus pro racing
Could divide the first one further still 4800-5300 mild and 5300-5800 hot street.

If it made 500 horse around 6k rpm I wouldn't be worried. But the ad mentions it was run on the dyno at 7500 for hours and how they made it make 500 horse with 9.5 compression. Those statements worry me. Why run it for hours at 7500 if it makes power at 6000? And it's difficult to make 500 horse with 9.5 compression. Won't say it can't be done. But rpm is needed to do it.

Like I said. I'd wanna see a dyno sheet. Just see where it makes power. Cam specs would be nice to. Get an idea of how it's making that power.
 
He lives close to me and i talked to him about a year ago,...seems like a decent guy.He had one engine that was well used for around $3500 and the new one with very little time on it at $6500.
These engines make power at high rpm and you would probably want to change the cam for good street performance.He can only tell you what he's been told and there may have been changes before he got the engines..I think the Cascar engines are restricted to 2 bbl carbs.
There are always risks buying anything used.
 
O.K....here's the correct info...CASCAR engines are restricted to a 390 cfm 4 bbl carb
The standard Beauchamps CASCAR engine uses a 340 replacement block
4.06 bore, 3.58 stroke, 371 cu in
521 hp @ 6400 rpm, 472 ft. lbs. @ 5100
comp 10.0:1 dry sump w / razor pump
solid flat tappet cam .555 / .555 .252 / .252 106 centreline
heads are W2,390 holley 4bbl. Mopar ignition, 1.75" headers
Cascar is owned by Nascar
this actually might be a not bad street engine, and would make much more power with just a bigger carb
 
O.K....here's the correct info...CASCAR engines are restricted to a 390 cfm 4 bbl carb
The standard Beauchamps CASCAR engine uses a 340 replacement block
4.06 bore, 3.58 stroke, 371 cu in
521 hp @ 6400 rpm, 472 ft. lbs. @ 5100
comp 10.0:1 dry sump w / razor pump
solid flat tappet cam .555 / .555 .252 / .252 106 centreline
heads are W2,390 holley 4bbl. Mopar ignition, 1.75" headers
Cascar is owned by Nascar
this actually might be a not bad street engine, and would make much more power with just a bigger carb
Awesome thanks for the extra info that should bring out some fresh opinions
 
Assuming it's all useable and just needs a freshen up, you can't buy the parts for that money.

The heads, rockers and intake are $2500.00 alone.

Not sure about the block but 4 bolt caps on a passenger car block is not cool. Even if they use a 5/16 outer bolt. I've converted at least a dozen T/A and X blocks to 4 bolt caps but never a passenger car block. The main webs are too thin.
 
So if you bolt on a 750-850 cfm probably pick up 50 or so hp and peak few hundred rpm higher.
 
Assuming it's all useable and just needs a freshen up, you can't buy the parts for that money.

The heads, rockers and intake are $2500.00 alone.

Not sure about the block but 4 bolt caps on a passenger car block is not cool. Even if they use a 5/16 outer bolt. I've converted at least a dozen T/A and X blocks to 4 bolt caps but never a passenger car block. The main webs are too thin.
You think even with the replacement block the four bolt is an issue I've read that it's better suited to four bolt mains and if so would a girdle be the way to go?
 
You think even with the replacement block the four bolt is an issue I've read that it's better suited to four bolt mains and if so would a girdle be the way to go?


The ad says 1972 block. That's what I'm going by. In 72 all you had were T/A blocks out of a car, or T/A blocks that came from a Chrysler dealer. If it's a T/A block jump on it.

If it is a replacement 340 block, it will take a 4 bolt cap. I'm not a fan of girdles. Just use main studs. If you are making over 550 HP buy aftermarket 2 bolt caps. Much over 650 and you need an aftermarket block if you want ring seal and bearing life.
 
Both engines sold thanks for everyone's input much appreciated I guess I'm going to have to go 440
 
I have one of these engines ...... I'm putting it together right now to be used in my 1970 Dart Swinger street / strip car, Installing a bigger cam solid lifter inturnal oil pump a little head and intake porting a 750 DP quick fuel carb and a new set of TTi W2 Race Headers I will be putting this engine on the dyno before it goes in the car.

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2017 thread back from the dead.
 
Will be interesting to see what it makes on the dyno. Should be pretty healthy
 
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