Is this dumb or brilliant? You decide.

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As you wish, I have decided......this is dumb.

Now, buy new, the proper springs.
 
Those springs look shot to me, as well.
When the spring loses arch, it gets longer, that is to say, the mounting eyes move apart from eachother, compared to their designed eye to eye distance. The design purpose of the rear hanger absorbs the springs lengthening and shortening during typical on road driving.
Yours are so flat, theyre really long.Or theyre just too long period. or your trunk is full of cement.Post #16 shows it all. Sorry, they gotta come out.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Those springs look shot to me, as well.
When the spring loses arch, it gets longer, that is to say, the mounting eyes move apart from eachother, compared to their designed eye to eye distance. The design purpose of the rear hanger absorbs the springs lengthening and shortening during typical on road driving.
Yours are so flat, theyre really long.Or theyre just too long period. Post #16 shows it all. Sorry, they gotta come out.
Click to expand...

I searched on Google how to fix the springs. There is a video on YouTube of a guy doing it from Jantz Engineering. Super easy to do. Mopar guys are so used to having to spend money they forget ingenuity.
 
Two7T3Dart said:
I think it was asked, but I didn't see an answer....Are you sure you have the correct short front hangers on the car ?....(not the longer B/E body ones)
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VonCramp said:
Mine are the original '69 Hangars for the stock springs.
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Can you post a pic of the front mount location?

Is there by chance a spacer in there?
 
Yikes!

Those springs are totally flat. And if they're SS springs, they aren't meant to be, they're supposed to have a significant arch. Road race and oval track springs are supposed to have about zero arch, and are designed as such. SS springs, not so much. They need to have a big arch to work properly.

Two things I get out of those pictures-

1. Those springs need to be re-arched if you want to use them
2. I've never seen SS springs that flat. Not saying it can't happen, but they look more like stockers to me.

As far as re-arching them yourself, I wouldn't, I'd take them to a spring shop and have it done right. Again, I'm not saying you can't do it, but given how important your springs are I'd rather have someone that knows what they're doing re-arch them so you know the final product is right. Of course, the flip side of that is those springs are pretty much shot as they are, so if you wanted to try to re-arch them you don't have much to lose. Of course, if it doesn't work, you're buying new springs.
 
VonCramp said:
I searched on Google how to fix the springs. There is a video on YouTube of a guy doing it from Jantz Engineering. Super easy to do. Mopar guys are so used to having to spend money they forget ingenuity.
Click to expand...
How about a link to this super easy fix?
 
Possibly this:

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HImEhw1UUoQ"]Rearching leaf springs, very fast way in muffler shop bender - YouTube[/ame]
 
Take the time to answer the questions that have been ask of you. Then we can quit Guessing and get you pointed in the right directions.

#1 part number of each spring(this is necessary for a SS spring as there is a L and R spring)

#2 measure the distance between the front eye and the center pin bolt that hold all the springs together.

Now, sense i don't have these answer i will guess with all the rest of us.............


If you had a B/E body (non SS) spring in there it would push the shackle back like it is doing.

How ever, the tire wheel combo would be push back in the wheel well by 2".......i thing that would be vary noticeable.:scratch:

Which brings me back to guessing on question #1.......I don't thing a SS spring is going to go that flat............
 
Cudafever said:
Take the time to answer the questions that have been ask of you. Then we can quit Guessing and get you pointed in the right directions.

#1 part number of each spring(this is necessary for a SS spring as there is a L and R spring)

#2 measure the distance between the front eye and the center pin bolt that hold all the springs together.

Now, sense i don't have these answer i will guess with all the rest of us.............


If you had a B/E body (non SS) spring in there it would push the shackle back like it is doing.

How ever, the tire wheel combo would be push back in the wheel well by 2".......i thing that would be vary noticeable.:scratch:

Which brings me back to guessing on question #1.......I don't thing a SS spring is going to go that flat............
Click to expand...
56" eye to eye. I haven't located a part number. Front mount is stock, as is rear mount.
 
This shot is with the car on jackstands and wheels barely resting on the ground. Six leaves on left and eight on the right. The hangers are now vertical. However, wheels have traveled about two inches towards the front of the vehicle. I thought something was wrong for these springs from the get-go because I was able to bolt the stock shocks up with no problem. Time for new springs it would appear.
 

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Here is the stock mount in the front everyone has asked about.
 

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Hopefully this will erase any doubt as to these being ss springs. 8 leaves as described.
 

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Since it seems I will be buying new springs, which vehicle weight is recommended? What part number would it be on ebay? I usually order from there. I do not mind a rough ride on the street. Just want the best possible hook-up at the track.
 
VonCramp said:
Since it seems I will be buying new springs, which vehicle weight is recommended? What part number would it be on ebay? I usually order from there. I do not mind a rough ride on the street. Just want the best possible hook-up at the track.
Click to expand...

The one's that are usually used are P3412002/P3412003, or the "002/003" springs as most people call them. They're recommended for a 3200lb vehicle weight. Maybe a little on the heavy side if you've done much weight reduction on the car, but they seem to get used the most for most A-bodies in street trim.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-3412002/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-3412003/overview/
 
:happy1:
72bluNblu said:
The one's that are usually used are P3412002/P3412003, or the "002/003" springs as most people call them. They're recommended for a 3200lb vehicle weight. Maybe a little on the heavy side if you've done much weight reduction on the car, but they seem to get used the most for most A-bodies in street trim.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-3412002/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-3412003/overview/
Click to expand...
I have done some significant weight reduction. The doors are gutted with Lexan. Fiberglass hood. Fiberglass bumpers. No heater or radio. No carpet. Front runners.
 
VonCramp said:
:happy1: I have done some significant weight reduction. The doors are gutted with Lexan. Fiberglass hood. Fiberglass bumpers. No heater or radio. No carpet. Front runners.
Click to expand...

Well, the next set down is recommended for a 2800 lb car, P4120863/4120864. Which set exactly would be best for your application is probably a better question for an experienced drag racer, which I am not...

http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/mopar-performance/product-line/mopar-performance-competition-leaf-springs/maximum-recommended-vehicle-weight-lbs/2-800-lbs?N=400172%2B303247%2B4294919798&autoview=SKU
 
72bluNblu said:
Well, the next set down is recommended for a 2800 lb car, P4120863/4120864. Which set exactly would be best for your application is probably a better question for an experienced drag racer, which I am not...

http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/mopar-performance/product-line/mopar-performance-competition-leaf-springs/maximum-recommended-vehicle-weight-lbs/2-800-lbs?N=400172%2B303247%2B4294919798&autoview=SKU
Click to expand...


Weigh your car first, but i bet its closer to 3200 then it is to 2800(aks 3200 pound car)
 
Remember weight is with driver and fuel on board.
 
VonCramp said:
I also forgot the aluminum heads, manual aluminum box, headers and intake.
Click to expand...


Go to a truck stop or a IFA store and ask them if you can way your car.
Last time i did it, it cost me $25

Mine tilted the scales at 3760 with me and a 1/2 tank of fuel(E body) ordered the 3800 pound springs. had them on for over 15 years now.

my first attempt to make my own SS spring was to brake open a A body spring pack. added 2 leafs to the right side and one to the left side.
Gained no lift, but made it vary stiff. i drove it this way for a while as the stiff spring keep the wheel well from rubbing on the rear tires side wall.

When i installed the SS springs, I thought i had switched brands, and was riding in a caddy!:D
 
You are on the money with the extra main riding stiff.Doesnt help the 60 fts one tiny bit, either.
OOps your post doesnt say extra mains.However above still applys.
Oh, and with 295/50-15s I have been running 24psi for many years without abnormal tire wear. I seem to burn them off before they wear out, too. At 24 the ride is acceptable even to the point of hammering over speedbumps.I know it might sound childish,but I get a great deal of enjoyment blowing by some young kid in his fart-can tuner-car who slows down to almost zero mph or crab-crawls over them.And I make sure never to get stuck behind one.I know/I know; I should grow up already. Even remembering those times almost makes me giddy.
 
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