Is this factory 1975 stuff

[garyfish340]

Once again more crap to make an otherwise okay day, completely crap out. I'm starting to hate this car. I'm trying to get the car into satisfactory running shape, for a trip to the body shop. There two rubber plugs in the firewall are confusing. I've never seen these on other cars. The grey wire is oil, the violet, and black are temp, green wire to the blower motor, there's a big red with a fusible link. going to the starter relay, etc, etc... But there's a dark blue wire that stops just by the blower motor with a female connector, nothing is plugged into it, and I'm wondering if that is the air conditioning.

 

[zkx14]

Looks light blue in my pic, but the blue one closer to the valve cover does come out of one of the spots you pictured. Goes through the connector, then to the AC drier. Someone may have added a connector so they did not have to deal with removing the terminal from the factory connector if the wires were removed from firewall. The other blue comes out of the harness and goes to the alternator.

 

[zkx14]

While we're tracking down wires on a '75. On my slant I have this 'extra' wire. Tan-ish with black female bullet?
Keith

 

[garyfish340]

While we're tracking down wires on a '75. On my slant I have this 'extra' wire. Tan-ish with black female bullet? Keith

First I suck at wiring.
I have very few wire left from the original harness. The only tan I see is a tan inside the car that turns to a tan/black under the hood, for a directional. I wonder if your car had 2 fender top directionals ?

 

[garyfish340]

Looks light blue in my pic, but the blue one closer to the valve cover does come out of one of the spots you pictured. Goes through the connector, then to the AC drier. Someone may have added a connector so they did not have to deal with removing the terminal from the factory connector if the wires were removed from firewall. The other blue comes out of the harness and goes to the alternator.

I wonder if the one coming of the alternator powers the A/C. I have everything wired exactly as it worked in my 69. Than I have all these extra wires. I also have a weird extra wire. Light green going into a plug, and than I guess a black ground coming out. I have yet to find an answer here. I call it disaster piece theatre, I hate wires.

 

[garyfish340]

While we're tracking down wires on a '75. On my slant I have this 'extra' wire. Tan-ish with black female bullet? Keith

Is anything plugged into that choke stove ?

 

[zkx14]

Is anything plugged into that choke stove ?

Choke stove is plugged in to the control, as is the other wire that comes out of the harness next to my mystery wire in the pic. Fender top indicator connections are accounted for in the headlight harness as they should be, but it IS the same style connector.
I also have the other connector that you showed ( not plugged in) as well as one by the battery in same harness , before the horns. I have a 74 manual (not 75) - not identified in there from what I have deciphered.

 

[garyfish340]

Choke stove is plugged in to the control, as is the other wire that comes out of the harness next to my mystery wire in the pic. Fender top indicator connections are accounted for in the headlight harness as they should be, but it IS the same style connector. I also have the other connector that you showed ( not plugged in) as well as one by the battery in same harness , before the horns. I have a 74 manual (not 75) - not identified in there from what I have deciphered.

I actually have the parts of the harness in a garbage can in the shed, and I tagged what I thought I needed. I honestly have no idea what that is. There's a lot of plugs, but nothing single pole like that.Sorry.

 

[nm9stheham]

To the OP..... I would not have bet on this being factory, buuuuut.....

The mymopar schematic does show the oil and temp sensor wires NOT passing via the bulkhead connectors... they just show up going from the passenger side to engine side of the firewall in some unmarked fashion and are violet and grey wires for temp and oil respectively. So maybe so. The blower motor wire is shown as dark green.

The red fusible link goes ot the firewall..... but I wonder if someone did a mad-electric-like bypass.....

 

[zkx14]

Yes - definitely factory on all but the red wire. That looks like a mod

 

[grumpuscreature]

Gonna pass along something I figured out about wires a long time ago. If everything you need works when you need it to, the engine starts and stops when you tell it to, and nothing bursts into flames or throws sparks at odd times, tape it off to get it out of sight and forget about it...

 

[garyfish340]

Gonna pass along something I figured out about wires a long time ago. If everything you need works when you need it to, the engine starts and stops when you tell it to, and nothing bursts into flames or throws sparks at odd times, tape it off to get it out of sight and forget about it...

In my case, 95% of the wiring harness is useless. To do a gen III hemi, you need the start, run, the charging system, and the voltage regulator. So for me, wiring that is sharing the same space, like lights, a windshield wiper system, the blower motor for the heat, or the horn needs to be sorted out, from the live wires for the 1975 throttle sensor, EGR spark advance, A/C system, or whatever the guy before had rigged up.
Than it might be nice to have the warning lights for oil, brakes, and temp. which by the way,, those wires are so long on a slant 6 they actually reach the radiator support.( but these are not necessities, they are luxuries.) It might be nice to have windshield washer, or the stock temp gauge. ( but it's not necessary) But I don't need a 2nd red wire with a fusible link, that's capable of carrying 138 amps to god knows where. I don't need the never ending hub of blue wiring coming straight from the Alternator power, going to accessories that no longer exist. I appreciate the guess work being done in this thread, if only to remind me to be safe. Being told that this red wire maybe somebodies modification has opened my eyes to maybe tracing it to see what's going on in the dash that I may not be aware of. ZKX14 pointed this out, and it's appreciated. We're talking 3 times more amperage than what that system was design for. It only take 1 amp to kill.
I am by no means addressing you, but I've had replies to other threads that simply read, Buy a service manual... It's hard to believe there is an area on F.A.B.O. to post questions, and people actually go out of their way to say, " I don't feel like answering. "Read a book." Maybe those folks should save themselves the effort of typing, and let somebody with a theory, or knowledge take a crack at it. Thank you everybody for trying, and this thread continues...

 

[garyfish340]

To the OP..... I would not have bet on this being factory, buuuuut.....

The mymopar schematic does show the oil and temp sensor wires NOT passing via the bulkhead connectors... they just show up going from the passenger side to engine side of the firewall in some unmarked fashion and are violet and grey wires for temp and oil respectively. So maybe so. The blower motor wire is shown as dark green.

The red fusible link goes ot the firewall..... but I wonder if someone did a mad-electric-like bypass.....

Scary stuff right ( the red ) My Dad's Duster had the A/C installed at the dealership. Maybe they had something to do with these extra wires. My guess is the blue wire has something to do with the A/C, and the blower motor is both for A/C, and heat. So hopefully I've defused that bomb, or not.

 

[nm9stheham]

Just an FYI.... it takes well under 1 amp to kill......but 12V can't push any appreciable current through any part of you. The lowest voltage documented to kill is something like 42V an only in special conditions. So don't sweat that too much.

Some of the responses are not ideal.... but expecting free help to behave in a certain way is not realistic. If it was paid for, that would be a different kettle of fish.

 

[garyfish340]

Just an FYI.... it takes well under 1 amp to kill......but 12V can't push any appreciable current through any part of you. The lowest voltage documented to kill is something like 42V an only in special conditions. So don't sweat that too much.

Some of the responses are not ideal.... but expecting free help to behave in a certain way is not realistic. If it was paid for, that would be a different kettle of fish.

You're 100% correct. Sometimes peoples responses may be as simple as, " Maybe this " Which might lead you on a path to research that idea. It can be hit, and miss. Ie: There was a guy up here who just posted a question. He wanted to know why his charging system was over charging his battery ? He was on his 2nd battery with no idea. There were 10 different answers up there. Now he had 10 possible leads, that he could investigate. And that beats the hell out of having no clue. But of course you had to have the one guy who's only 2 cents was : "I couldn't tell you unless the car was in front of me." Why would someone ever bother putting in the effort to type that ?
On the electrical side of things, this is interesting stuff. Humans can feel one-one thousandth of an amp, or one milliamp, of electricity. To put that in perspective, it takes about 800 milliamps to light a 100-watt light bulb. Ten milliamps can cause a person pain, and at 14 to 15 milliamps, you will lose muscle control, an experience called the “cannot let go” phenomenon. Fifty milliamps is generally where you run the risk of dying from an abnormal heart rhythm. But during an ECT session patients generally receive a shock of up to 100 thousand volts. There's a whole other side of this question with electrical frequency that I don't really comprehend, so I won't even try. Shocking.