We can see this is on a LA engine but other than that, I can only guess you want a performance curve on a somewhat stock engine.
In which case you're going to haveto monkey around with the settings and springs.
Someone may still have the MP spring kit, or at least a Mallory YH/YT spring kit.
In my experience, the geometry is such that its difficult to get the factory MP curve.
Also there are two tricks to working with this advance mechanism.
1. Changing the advance allowed (supposedly the advance limit adjustment) changes the tension on the primary spring(s).
2a. The tension alone can be adjusted by bending the perches.
2b. When a long looped secondary spring is used, the perch effects the degrees out before the secondary spring slows the advance.
Why is tension important?
Its the force holding the weight from moving out.
The less tension, the lower the rpm at which the weights move out.
So Joe hot rodder trusts the info from Mallory and reduces the allowable advance.
In doing so, he unwittingly causes the timing advance to begin at say 500 rpm instead of 800 rpm.
You can mess around with some springs, and even buy some high rate springs from McMaster Carr, and bend the loops. etc. Eventually you can get an OK curve, especially if your not running to high rpm (5500 or more).
Here's one post with a bit more detail
I have a Mopar distributor that uses Mallory's YT advance. The Mallory spring kit comes with springs ranging from pink **edit to change from lb. to oz. Pounds is wrong** (6oz.) to orange (13oz.) Mallory's timing curves show that two orange springs (the heaviest) will max out at 2500rpm with...
www.forabodiesonly.com
Kits came with these plus the some shown in the other photo (like the purple)
P = Primary spring. Tension on this spring determines the rpm advance starts. Rate of the spring dictates how quick the advance is above idle rpm.
S = Secondary Spring. This is loose at idle. As the weights move out, the spring tension will slow the advance. This should happen between 1600 and 2000 rpm.
A = Adjusters. Loosen these screws to adjust the limit of advance but also change the spring tension as explained above. Then tighten the screws. The amount of advance shown in the photo can be estimated from the space visible in the slots. The kits came with plastic keys, but you can measure the distance.
Someone posted a table. Or better - go measure using a timing light and tach. That's really the way to learn what the changes do.
I didn't label the sheet metal tabs. Bend those out for more tension. Don't go crazy. Obviously don't want to bend them in and out 20 times.
If the cam has a bunch of duration, maybe start with more intial and work for a compromise single stage curve rather than a two stage curve.
