[WANTED] Iso /6 hardened oil pump drive gear

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Budget mopar guy

Budget mopar guy

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Hey everyone I'm looking for a hardened oil pump here. I have a performance oriented slant that I stuffed a .440 lift comp cam into and I've heard of oil pump gear issues. I want dome piece of mind and was looking for a hardened gear.

I look through the threads and there used to be a guy named frank with the name 66acuda but he hasn't been on here since 2014. Any and all help is appreciated. Also should I get a new don't drive gear?
 
You need a different camshaft. The main problem is with Comp's camshaft gear that's not treated properly. Been a problem for years, they know it and won't address it.
 
See, here's the deal with this. ALL slant 6 oil pump gears are hardened. Every one of them. You don't want to get one that's too hard......especially if you're just going to insist on running that Comp camshaft. Since you're not responding, that's all I'll say on it. Good luck!
 
The thing is that I already spent 300 bucks on that cam and the entire engine is together. Also I have researched this subject and it seems to happen on other cams too not just comp cams so I'm thinking it's either a quality issue with the pump gear orrrrr it's the fact that all replacement pumps are already about 40% larger than the factory one which is kinda making the oem replacements a high volume which may be causing excess stress on the gear. I Dont really know anything for sure tho.

I just Dont want to have a bunch of issues with this engine
 
Budget mopar guy said:
The thing is that I already spent 300 bucks on that cam and the entire engine is together. Also I have researched this subject and it seems to happen on other cams too not just comp cams so I'm thinking it's either a quality issue with the pump gear orrrrr it's the fact that all replacement pumps are already about 40% larger than the factory one which is kinda making the oem replacements a high volume which may be causing excess stress on the gear. I Dont really know anything for sure tho.

I just Dont want to have a bunch of issues with this engine
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Bill, what are your intentions for this engine? Even Dutra himself has basically said they'll be ok unless you run like a thick 50 weight racing oil and spin high RPM. Is that what you intend to do? If not and all you plan to run is 10/30 and a street car, I'll most likely be fine.
 
dirty white boy said:
oil pump issues?? ant herd of any...
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sounds like a "sarcastic" response" haha haha Lots of ink dedicated to this subject in the /6 world/////
I read about lots of stuff others have issue with, even though I havent had "that" issue--- yet. Talking about many issues not just "this" one.
I dunno if it got my oil pump gear but I did have a cam gear eat itself on a 79 D100 with a dead stock /6 in it once about 30 years ago..... discovered when it ate the dist gear and then the next 2 replacements I put in, each about 2 revolutions of the crank after install..... dead stock motor, quite a few miles on it before i got it, I'd had it about 2 years, before I had issue..... back then I used to change oil at ~2k miles (oil was even cheaper then) and always had fresh 10-w-40 in it.....
I never dismantled and investigated, just yanked that motor for another /6 at the time cuz I got a whole nother motor cheaper than it would have cost me to put a cam into the old one.....
 
RustyRatRod said:
Bill, what are your intentions for this engine? Even Dutra himself has basically said they'll be ok unless you run like a thick 50 weight racing oil and spin high RPM. Is that what you intend to do? If not and all you plan to run is 10/30 and a street car, I'll most likely be fine.
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So basically here is the build and philosophy of use. .440 comp cam, cut the head 100 thousandths, ported the head, offy 4 bbl intake and mopar header. Full garage rebuild bearings and rings, put a new oem style oil pump in it,

I mainly just want to drive the thing and ill get on it here and there but I honestly Dont thin ill ever spin the engine over 4800 because I doubt the head will flow enough to accommodate a higher rmp than that
 
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Budget mopar guy said:
So basically here is the build and philosophy of use. .440 comp cam, cut the head 100 thousandths, ported the head, offy 4 bbl intake and mopar header. Full garage rebuild nearing a and rings, put a new oem style oil pump in it,

I mainly just want to drive the thing and ill get on it here and there but I honestly Dont thin ill ever spin the engine over 4800 because I doubt the head will flow enough to accommodate a higher rmp than that
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Were it not for that cam, I'd say you'd be golden. I'm not trying to be a negative nellie, but I MUCH prefer a reground stock core. The gears have already been run in. They are factory hardened almost to the core of the camshaft. Regardless of intent and "whatever" gear I chose, were I running a Comp cam, that would always be in the back of my mind. I do plan on looking into "some sort" of oil pump gear oiling on my soon to be current build, but if I cannot get it figured out, it's not something I plant to lose sleep over, because I'm going to use a factory Chrysler camshaft core reground from Oregon. Again. I have one of of their regrinds in my present build and it runs fantastic. I've had both the oil pump and distributor out for gear inspection and they both look as new and the camshaft gear is perfect.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Were it not for that cam, I'd say you'd be golden. I'm not trying to be a negative nellie, but I MUCH prefer a reground stock core. The gears have already been run in. They are factory hardened almost to the core of the camshaft. Regardless of intent and "whatever" gear I chose, were I running a Comp cam, that would always be in the back of my mind. I do plan on looking into "some sort" of oil pump gear oiling on my soon to be current build, but if I cannot get it figured out, it's not something I plant to lose sleep over, because I'm going to use a factory Chrysler camshaft core reground from Oregon. Again. I have one of of their regrinds in my present build and it runs fantastic. I've had both the oil pump and distributor out for gear inspection and they both look as new and the camshaft gear is perfect.
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How much does that cost and what's the turnaround on it?
 
When building a slant it is a good idea to verify that the oil pump drive gear is centered on the cam splines. An oil pump with excessive or too little drive gear end play will not be centered with the cam shaft splines.
What I do is after the cam is installed I brush the splines with yellow gear paste, install the oil pump with the gasket and tighten the mounting bolts enough to get the oil pump firm. Then spin the crank-cam a few times.
Then observe the yellow paste imprint on the oil pump gear. The paste transfer should be centered on the drive gear.
You cannot adjust the depth of the imprint, but it should get near to the gear tooth root. The centering of the drive gear to the cam spline can be fine tuned using the same methods used to remove-install an oil pump drive gear.
I do this check with the oil pan off, with an engine that is already built, one could remove the oil pump, use a small brush to paint the splines with yellow gear paste, re install the oil pump with gasket, spin the motor, remove the oil pump and inspect the imprint of the yellow gear paste on the gear teeth.
 
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