I totally agree, but then he has to worry about assholes that want a gazillion dollars for used 40 year old 198 rods, or buy the K1s that are not cheap. IMO if he's gonna drop that kinda coin, find a 360.
It is official, rods are toast. Now rebuilders
- Thread starter gdizzle
- Start date
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I totally agree, but then he has to worry about assholes that want a gazillion dollars for used 40 year old 198 rods, or buy the K1s that are not cheap. IMO if he's gonna drop that kinda coin, find a 360.
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
I have had a 225 sitting in my driveway for MONTHS now
he was more then welcome to the whole thing
and, if the deals I'm working on falls through, he can STILL have it
as long as he comes and gets it ;)
he was more then welcome to the whole thing
and, if the deals I'm working on falls through, he can STILL have it
as long as he comes and gets it ;)
I had a member here give me one. He is about three hours away in north Georgia. I am sure he has done something with it by now, because I have not been able to break away and get it.
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
that's about the same story I have
I posted it in the for sale section, free if you take the whole thing, otherwise 50 cents a pound for parts (or something to that effect)
I had a member from Chicago call dibs on it but he seems to have dropped of the face of the earth (which, considering Chicago, might be an improvement)
so now I'm talking to a member about an hour from me, hopefully he can come get it and put it to good use
there has got to be a cheap, good set of rods available though...as popular as it is to swap a V8 in
I posted it in the for sale section, free if you take the whole thing, otherwise 50 cents a pound for parts (or something to that effect)
I had a member from Chicago call dibs on it but he seems to have dropped of the face of the earth (which, considering Chicago, might be an improvement)
so now I'm talking to a member about an hour from me, hopefully he can come get it and put it to good use
there has got to be a cheap, good set of rods available though...as popular as it is to swap a V8 in
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
^^^ That's when you get on www.slantsix.org ....
gdizzle
Well-Known Member
ok so update: engine out and apart. we found that the Oil pick up arm had been pushed to the side, and probably wasnt picking up much oil. The crankshaft shows obvious signs of etching so it was metal on metal at the bearings towards the back of the engine (where the sound was coming from).
The engine actually looks pretty good, pistons look good etc... So we discovered that this engine has been rebuilt, as it has .040 already. So now we are thinking we go up to .060. Any issues with that? Timing gear and chain look good as well. But everything is going to be replaced since we took the thing apart anyway. Should I keep any of the old parts? Is there any value there? or just trash? thanks so much for all your help guys. Here is a pic before we put it into the boiler.
The engine actually looks pretty good, pistons look good etc... So we discovered that this engine has been rebuilt, as it has .040 already. So now we are thinking we go up to .060. Any issues with that? Timing gear and chain look good as well. But everything is going to be replaced since we took the thing apart anyway. Should I keep any of the old parts? Is there any value there? or just trash? thanks so much for all your help guys. Here is a pic before we put it into the boiler.
sleepyhead416
Well-Known Member
Save a lot of money put a 360 magnum in it. A ton of them in junkyards or craigslist
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
just don't do what I did...I dropped in a 360 and after 500 miles I spun a rod bearing :banghead:
totally agree...and once you have the tools and know how to use 'em your miles ahead. AND a lot of the shops are thieves.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Cam could probably have been re-used but the lifters are all mixed up now. Doug Dutra could regrind them of get you some for a few $ each if the cam lobes are not shot. Are you upgrading the cam?
gdizzle
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the ideas to change the engine, but that wont be happening. Just got rebored to .060. Cam is to be replaced. Crankshaft is gonna get reground and reused.
getting close. also just paid $175 to rebuild the speedometer.
getting close. also just paid $175 to rebuild the speedometer.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Very good that it is progressing. Well, before you start it up, come back on and ask about proper break-in procedures, both at start up and for the first few hundred miles.
So...what do you recommend. I'm getting close to starting my rebuilt 225. +.040, head milled.08, Oregon 818 reground cam, new SealedPower lifters, rebuilt head, rebuilt carb and dizzy, etc. Picked up a jug of Lucas Hot Rod oil with high ZDDP while at Summit.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
FWIW, my procedure:
1. At the initial startup, run the engine at 1500 rpm like always with a new cam for 15 minutes or so. No need IMO to go faster than that; the /6 cam oiling is mainly from the rockers down through the lifter gallery combined with perhaps some indirect splash oiling from the con rods. If the pump is at full pressure at 1500 rpm, no higher RPM's are going to increase it. Re-check valve clearances after the 15 minutes and again at 20-30 miles.
2. Driving the first few hundred miles, start out easy and then increase the piston/ring load with gradually increase throttle openings. Vary the RPM's all over the place. I did not put our rebuild to full bore throttle for about 250 miles.
3. Change oil and filter at maybe 300 miles and again at that interval. We keep out engines pretty clean on the inside so I've never seen the need to do an earlier oil change.
4. Take compression readings sometime in the first 100 miles; just to see that everything is pretty even across all cylinders.
There is nothing spectacular or unusual in the above. What we did find in our recent /6 rebuild was that the engine smoothness improved noticeably throughout the first 500 miles. I can't recall any other engine rebuild where the engine was not at full smoothness in just 50 miles or less. We used Hastings rings with the moly top so they should have seated in quickly; it may have to do with the rings seating or something else that I have not figured out.
It was unique in my experience. But new car owners 'back in the day' were told to use a gradual break-in process in new engines like described above; it was even described in a lot of owners manuals. New engines and metals and such seem to have done away with that requirement.
BTW, we used standard Castrol GTX off the shelf with no special ZDDP additives. The zinc contents of new oils is not all the much below the old oils anyway. And a /6 cam has such soft valve springs, it probably does not matter what you use. In fact, we had the rocker shaft flippped upside down and did not detect it until near the end of the 15 minute break-in!! No wonder the rockers weren't dribbling oil! But, that did not hurt this cam at all (a Dutra torque regrind with his reground lifters). The moly cam lube did its job.
1. At the initial startup, run the engine at 1500 rpm like always with a new cam for 15 minutes or so. No need IMO to go faster than that; the /6 cam oiling is mainly from the rockers down through the lifter gallery combined with perhaps some indirect splash oiling from the con rods. If the pump is at full pressure at 1500 rpm, no higher RPM's are going to increase it. Re-check valve clearances after the 15 minutes and again at 20-30 miles.
2. Driving the first few hundred miles, start out easy and then increase the piston/ring load with gradually increase throttle openings. Vary the RPM's all over the place. I did not put our rebuild to full bore throttle for about 250 miles.
3. Change oil and filter at maybe 300 miles and again at that interval. We keep out engines pretty clean on the inside so I've never seen the need to do an earlier oil change.
4. Take compression readings sometime in the first 100 miles; just to see that everything is pretty even across all cylinders.
There is nothing spectacular or unusual in the above. What we did find in our recent /6 rebuild was that the engine smoothness improved noticeably throughout the first 500 miles. I can't recall any other engine rebuild where the engine was not at full smoothness in just 50 miles or less. We used Hastings rings with the moly top so they should have seated in quickly; it may have to do with the rings seating or something else that I have not figured out.
It was unique in my experience. But new car owners 'back in the day' were told to use a gradual break-in process in new engines like described above; it was even described in a lot of owners manuals. New engines and metals and such seem to have done away with that requirement.
BTW, we used standard Castrol GTX off the shelf with no special ZDDP additives. The zinc contents of new oils is not all the much below the old oils anyway. And a /6 cam has such soft valve springs, it probably does not matter what you use. In fact, we had the rocker shaft flippped upside down and did not detect it until near the end of the 15 minute break-in!! No wonder the rockers weren't dribbling oil! But, that did not hurt this cam at all (a Dutra torque regrind with his reground lifters). The moly cam lube did its job.
gdizzle
Well-Known Member
Another discovery, turns out the bearings on the Crankshaft were the wrong size. Meaning they were at 20, while the shaft was at 10. So literally the rod was shaking.
Crankshaft has been reground, correct size bearings are ordered. thinking about paint colors...
Crankshaft has been reground, correct size bearings are ordered. thinking about paint colors...
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
This thread sure took a turn for the better. When it started, most here assumed you were the typical whiny do-nothing who would end it with "sold the car", but you doubled-down and will have a car you can be very proud of.
gdizzle
Well-Known Member
So you guys said it had to be Chrysler Red, so ... now it is Chrysler red. getting close to starting it up.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Puuuuurty...
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