It will go in this weekend!!!!!

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JR

JR

Pissed off senior member.
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Ok, The new intake fits, everything is done, loaded in the truck and ready to go so tomorrow Im getting up early driving to my friends shop and yanking out the old 360 and dropping in the new 360. With any luck by sunday there will be another 73 scamp back on the road!

Break in... 2200 rpm for 20 or 30 mins?

Change oil and filter after break in and test drive?

What oil is best for a new motor?

Is there a filter that has a valve in it so when I take it off I wont get oil all over my exhaust pipe? I have a right angle adaptor for the oil filter but I dont have enough room for it, the exhaust tube passes right next to the filter and into the sidepipes. I have about 3 inches to play with so I have been useing a short Wix filter.

Nothing will stop me from doing it this weekend...unless it dumps a crap load of snow overnite, I hate snow.
 
Vary the rpm from 2000 to 2500 for 20-25 minutes for break in. I use non-detergent 30 weight for break in the what ever you usually run afterwards. Let the exhaust cool and put a rag on the exhaust to catch the oil. Hope all goes well and enjoy the new engine.
 
I wont be too far behind ya I should get mine in sometime next weekend; because it did snow last nite. We dyno'd my engine and the guy there told me not to run synthetic for 1,000 miles.
 
fire it up with straigh 30..I'd run detergent, but that's not a big deal..it's only in there for a 1/2 hour. I use a peice of thin card board to direct the oil off the headers/pipes..just put a crease in it, and the oil will flow down and away. Dont use a fram filter...I replace right after cam break in, then after 500 miles. Depending ont he cam, I'd run Shell Rotella or a similar deisel rated oil in it...then synthetic when it's got a bit of milage..
 
It is now 8:27pm sunday nite and Im running on 6 1/2 hrs. of sleep so far this weekend :sleepy3: but the motor is in. All I have left to do is tighten up the exahust, put in the distributer, bolt on the carb and get some new heater hoses for it.
I prelubed the motor before I dropped it in and it went right up to 60lbs. and had no leaks. Next weekend Im ganna fire it up!!!
Now for the 1 hr drive home.
 
Straight 30 weight and straight water for the coolant. Local engine builder told me to use water for the first couple of hundred miles or so. This way the seals have a chance to set good. He said that the anti freeze will sometimes seep thru the gaskets...
Just a thought!

Rick
 
Never thought of using rust to seal gaaskets. I do know the majority of new cars arrive with a small amount of Bars Leak or similar to prevent the tiny seepage combacks. But I've never heard of straight water making it easier to seal somehthing...
 
According to engine builder...the anti freeze has some type of pentrating stuff in it what will some how get by the gaskets before they seal up. He has seen it happen where someone has gotten their motor in and all ready to start it...and for some reason run out of time and decided to call it a day. The next morning come out and find a little trickle of coolant down the side of the block or head.
So his advice to all new motor owners..is to use water for the first few heat cycles then drain it and put in the coolant..

Rick
 
Interesting..like Imsaid, never heard of that..except using Cometic (MLS) head gaskets..that's because the sealer on them is heat activated, form what I undderstand..Same with Felpros..maybe that's why...
 
I havent filled the coolant yet but I will try running streight water for a little while (it's getting real cold here and snowing off and on).
I primed the oil on Sunday and it shot streight up to 60+ lbs on the Sterwart Warner test guage and there were no leaks and It was holding the pressure. I wont have a chance to start it until Saturday afternoon so should I just be safe and prime it again right before the first start up.
I can't wait for this weekend, It's been about 8 months since Iv driven my car!
 
I do hope it's indoors..straight water in WA state?? That's REALLY tempting fate if it's not garaged..
 
Yeah tell me about it, It is in a shop right now and will be inside until I start running anti freeze then its comming home and I only have a "2 car garage".....hahahahahahaha yeah right more like 1 car after I get all the workbenches, dirt bike, toolbox, engine hoist, and other toys in there. It will be an outdoor pet until we get the restoration of my girlfriends 72 scamp done and even after then I have my 53 merc pick up and then my 27 T that need to be pulled out of the storage locker and finneshed.
Too many toys and not enough room.

3 more days until I get to fire up the new motor!!!
 
Broke in the cam 2200 rpm for 30 mins, the temp went up to 260 then dropped down to 195, oil was steady at about 60-65 psi. It's a damn smooth runner. We just have to dial everything in tomorrow.

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP GUYS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :notworth: :thumblef: :salut:

J.R.
 
Sounds like a good deal, I love the sound of a new fired eng. It makes you think about of lot of time well spent. When i first fired my indy 415 smblk it was at about 11:30 at night ,I live in town in quiet res. area ,but I didnt care i waited for over a year to hear this --------then about 30 mins later geuss who showed up------it sure wasnt the chicks from the mans show.
 
Plum 360, I like your style,LOL. I too run straight water after servicing coolant system, (water pump, Thermostat, hoses, new engine/cam break-in ect.) After I verify no leaks in system, drain water and refill with Anti-freeze mix. Straight water is in only 30 minutes or so. Also provides a good flushing too. Don't like to loose new coolant in case of leaks. Terry.
 
congrats on your new motor, its a great feeling and the sound feeds your soul...

have a question for the other guys tho..why a straight 30 oil??? and why a oil made for diesels?? around here we use a 5 -30 detergent oil....and i havent lost a cam lobe in years...just wondering.....thanks
Ron
 
Striaght 30 is what all your torque specs were based on. It's a commonly available oil, and will add a littel protection in and of itself. I wouldnt run 5wt in anything made earlier than the mid 90s. It's an economy oil, designed with emmisions and rollerized valve trains in mind. I use deisel for the friction package that gets put in it, that is no longer in oils sold with the starburst logo on the bottle. Most cams wont have an issue, but why bother tempting fate, when you're buying oil anyway. the newer aggreessive lift cams, wil eat themselves right up without the right oil or additives in them.
 
moper, I am not trying to argue with you but I dont understand, most of the dyno test ( in the magazines ) that i have read use the 5-30 oils ...and theses are fresh motors for the most part, it has been my understanding that the multi grade oils have better lubrication properties, as it was explaned to me is as follows; the molecules of the oil in the multies are smaller than in the straight weights; thus providing better lube properties as the oil can penetrate better, this was obvious at the time becuase we had oil leaks in many motors after changing over from the straight to the multie weights, this isnt just my opinion, I was a harley davidson mechanic for over 15 years ,and this came straight from the factory.... perhaps my information is out of date, but we did experiance an increase in engine life with the multie grade oils,
one more question....I have used the racing oils for many years, cam two ( made by sun oil co. ) and kendall before they sold out a couple years ago, these oils were supposed to have the additional additives for wear, is this still the case or have they also changed with the times? like i said , not trying to start something here , just want to do the best for my many motors. it has been a few years since I was at a factory school and i know how fast things can change, just trying to keep up with the times.....Thanks for the info ,sorry this is so long ,
Ron
 
Hey, this hobby (or business, depending on who you are) is a constant state of learning. I use straight 30, because it's there, and I always have..(well, I used to use 20-50, but having 90psi of OP when cold kind of bugged me..) I'm not out to convert somebody, just passing along what I've found to be true. Dont know anything about barleys, except they arent cars..lol. I was ASE certified in all automotive excetp A/C for years, and stopped wrenching for a living 3 years ago. (I had stopped for a while, then got back into it) I also havent ever lost a cam. Probably from dumb luck, but I pay more attention now than I ever did to lifters rotating, inner springs left out, cam lube, and oil type. Most manufacturers now spec 5-30. It's for milage and emmisions reason..the zink helped hurt convetor performance on emmissions vehicles, and isnt needed with roller tappets or lash adjusters. Now, they simply use coatings, and hyper pistons to limit the slop in the bores that let oil past the rings. Oil lowers octane, and can hurt performnce by inducing pinging, so the computers pull out timing. More emmisions, less economy. Drive a Ram with a leaking intake gasket..You'll know what I mean..lol. So, they cut it out. You can add it back, with the GM additive (EOS), or, buy racing oil that will still have it in there..But those are not the typical cheap oil you find. deisel or fleet is still cheapo, but has the zink still in it. The big furnaces still need the anti wear performance, and the extra detergents. As I said,keep doing what you do if it works..No sweat here. Its all about opinions.
 
moper...thanks for the insight, like i said ,just want to do the best thing for my motors and if something new is out there thats better ,then i am willing to learn, I dont think that any of the guys on this site use cheap oil, at least I hope they dont, fifty cent oil in a five thousand dollar motor just doesnt make any sense
thanks again.... Ron
 
I run 30 weight because the machinist that did my block recommended I break it in as I described. He builds race engines so I took his advise and I am just passing along what he recommended.
 
68gts340 said:
moper...thanks for the insight, like i said ,just want to do the best thing for my motors and if something new is out there thats better ,then i am willing to learn, I dont think that any of the guys on this site use cheap oil, at least I hope they dont, fifty cent oil in a five thousand dollar motor just doesnt make any sense
thanks again.... Ron
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LOL..there's always a few that think it does make sense...
 
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