Joe Gibbs Break In oil?

[myasylum]

I pretty much planned on getting the good ol' Comp Break in additive, but when I was looking for Joe Gibbs oil online, I found out they also have break in oil as well. It says, "no other additives needed", and it's $7.99 a quart.

What do you guys think? and/or which would you use?

They have two kinds as well...

BR Break-In Oil

Viscosity typical of SAE 15W-50.

Product Features:

• Used by Joe Gibbs Racing to break-in and dyno all their engines
• Petroleum oil provides the highest levels of zinc and phosphorus for flat-tappet engines.
• Additive package promotes ring seal and provides maximum protection available for cams and lifters during initial break-in.
• Requires no additional additives.
• Good for full power pulls on the dyno, one night of racing or up to 400 miles on the street.
• Provides maximum compression and generates maximum horsepower.
• Compatible with methanol and high-octane race fuels.

Applications/Instructions:

• Specifically designed for breaking in engines and flat tappet camshafts and lifters
• Combined with Joe Gibbs Driven Engine Assembly Grease, BR provides the highest levels of protection for camshafts, lifters, wrist pins, distributor gears, push rods and valve retainers.
• BR is fully formulated and requires no EOS or other additives.
• BR should be pre-heated to 180F before firing the engine for maximum protection.
• Because it is a 15W-50, BR can be used for up to 2 hours of break-in/dyno time before changing to race oil.

and

BR-30 Break-In Oil

Viscosity typical of SAE 5W-30.

Product Features:

• Same formula as original BR in a SAE 10W-30 viscosity.
• Petroleum oil provides the highest levels of zinc and phosphorus for flat-tappet engines.
• Additive package promotes ring seal and provides maximum protection available for cams and lifters during initial break-in.
• Requires no additional additives.
• Good for tight clearance and/or low temperature break-in
• Compatible with methanol and high-octane race fuels.

Applications/Instructions:

• Specifically designed for breaking in engines and flat tappet camshafts and lifters
• Good for tight clearance and/or low temperature break-in
• Good for restrictor plate engines, drag race engines, and OEM rebuilds
• Combined with Joe Gibbs Driven Engine Assembly Grease, BR30 provides the highest levels of protection for camshafts, lifters, wrist pins, distributor gears, push rods and valve retainers

http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/products/breakin/index.html

 

[moper]

I use Valvoline VR1 that has the high levels of zink. Same price, no shipping from my parts store. There are a few special oils now that are designed to help the cam issues. IMO, you cant go wrong using them in place of an additive to std oils.

 

[340butterduster]

I've never used it, but I have heard only good things about it.
It comes recommended by many companies like Hughes...
Asking a question like that, in a forum like this is certainly the best way to get a good answer.

I wanted to subscribe to this thread, as I'm also curious.

 

[djwhog]

Valvoline VR1 for me too is less $$ should be about the same, I am sure Joe is OK too

Make sure cam lude and all bearings are coated good and you should be good

 

[604 Racing]

ive used this in lots of my performance engines i build, i NEVER use a cam break in lub and ive NEVER had any issues...good stuff, i stand behind this product.

 

[myasylum]

This isn't a thread about oil, it's about break in additives. I didn't see any from VR, but that doesn't mean their isn't any.

I did buy some Joe Gibbs BR. It's 15w-50, which is heavy but its suppose to be 400mi break in oil. Saves money in the long run, rather then having to drain it right after break in. (Assuming its really that good?)

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

i used the brake in oil and it works fine...then i went to vr1 after brake in

 

[Cudafever]

This isn't a thread about oil, it's about break in additives. I didn't see any from VR, but that doesn't mean their isn't any.

I did buy some Joe Gibbs BR. It's 15w-50, which is heavy but its suppose to be 400mi break in oil. Saves money in the long run, rather then having to drain it right after break in. (Assuming its really that good?)

If your going to run it for 400 miles, At least change the filter after cam/lifter brake in.