Joe Gibbs break in oil

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Snake

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My engine builder wants to use Joe gibbs break in oil.I am sure some of you have used this and how did it preform.After break in and drain that out what should we use next.360 20 over.Also what do you think about saveing that break in oil and puting it in my daily driver.
 
My engine builder wants to use Joe gibbs break in oil.I am sure some of you have used this and how did it preform.After break in and drain that out what should we use next.360 20 over.Also what do you think about saveing that break in oil and puting it in my daily driver.
Best Machine just finished my stroker and gave me the J.G. break in oil to use. His instructions were to break in the cam, then drain and replace with Valvoline VR1 10w30. He also recommended getting the break in oil out in a timely manner as it will be full of all the assembly lube and cam break in lube and may not look all that great. Oil is cheap, i wouldnt save it.
 
There seems to be lots of talk about this in previous threads. I think what everyone is in agreement with is that our older engines benefit from the added zinc and phosphorus that seems to be lacking in most of the off the shelf oils. 1200ppm of zinc seems to be the magic minimum number. I took my car back to the engine builder for the first oil change and inspection after seating the rings and they suggested I use 5 quarts of Comp Cam break-in oil for this one and then a good quality 10w-30 oil with a zinc additive such as Lucas brand thereafter. In any case it's the zinc and phosphorus additives that you need to be concerned with whether they come from an oil or an oil additive. IMO it's just good peace of mind.

Bill
 
I hear good things about Joe Gibbs oil.

After break in, give the break in oil to your most hated enemy in the old bottles and try to reseal them like new, this way, he'll think it a olive branch of peace, but a Trojan horse it'll be destroying his engine in a few short miles.
 
After break in, give the break in oil to your most hated enemy in the old bottles and try to reseal them like new, this way, he'll think it a olive branch of peace, but a Trojan horse it'll be destroying his engine in a few short miles.
this is just wrong :angry7:, funny but wrong :angry7:.....:toothy10:
 
this is just wrong :angry7:, funny but wrong :angry7:.....:toothy10:

Someone on your crap list needing attention? I could be out in a few weeks if you need da help.... LOL!
 
Is that the used oil or the fresh oil and to what engine is the oil going in?

Detail, details!!!! .... OH (LOL) I'll just go ahead and give a answer... (LOL)

On your fresh ready to start engine, a full oil pan on a primed engine with filter of course should be about 5 quarts.
I'd use nothing but the Joe Gibbs oil or at least a quality oil with proper break in additive, like from Comp Cams or other such equal places...

NOW!

On the best enemies engine, the used 5 quarts of oil plus any extra fine metal shavings and dog urine for extra care and love should be used. ;)
 
I used the Joe Gibbs break in oil on my sb 408 stroker, then went to the XP5 synthetic 20/50 race oil. My motor is highly modified though, with the high compression and roller cam and the such. I would stick with a high quality oil in your application no matter what, and if you are running a flat tappet lifter set-up the zinc and phosphorus in the oil should be concidered a must. A lot of the guys around here run the Joe Gibbs or Brad Penn oils.
 
Ok rumblefish360 lol,what I mean is,is it 5 quarts of Joe Gibbs break in oil,or 1 quart of break in oil and 4 of something else.
 
Run 5 qts of the break in oil.
 
He he he, sorry for the confusment.

5 quarts of Joe Gibbs break in oil is what I would use.

or

a bottle of Comp Cams break in fluid added to the regular oil.

<G> Sorry.
 
You flat tappet guys are right on track. Use high zinc/phosphorous break in and then quality oil with additive thereafter.
 
NOW! On the best enemies engine, the used 5 quarts of oil plus any extra fine metal shavings and dog urine for extra care and love should be used. ;)

Shavings mixed in 50-50 mix of pancake syrup and corn oil. Motor goes to lunch and smells like IHOP. LOL :snakeman:
 
After the breakin period, you can go to whatever brand you like but you still need to keep the COMP cams additive on each oil change. Modern oil is lacking zinc, and the additive puts it back. Straight oil on flat tappet cams will result in advanced wear unless the zinc additive is used all the time.
 
Best Machine just finished my stroker and gave me the J.G. break in oil to use. His instructions were to break in the cam, then drain and replace with Valvoline VR1 10w30. He also recommended getting the break in oil out in a timely manner as it will be full of all the assembly lube and cam break in lube and may not look all that great. Oil is cheap, i wouldnt save it.




X-2 on the VR-1 Racing oil! - It has the ZDDP that flat tappet cams need to survive. I know people that run it with high nose pressure solid cams with no issues.
 
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