Does anybody have any experience with this paint? Can you use a different hardener other than there brand? Something cheaper? Also has anybody used it out of the rattle cans? If so how did it turn out? I have a old Dakota I would like to paint It a satin black. I’ve never painted before so I don’t know how this will go. Just looking for some opinions on this paint or maybe another paint. A rattle can paint job would be ok for this truck also it’s a beater. Just want it to look better. Thanks
John Deere Blitz Black
- Thread starter Bronson77
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dodge71demon
Well-Known Member
Loved this stuff I would get different brand hardener at tractor supply worked fine
Ben Drinkin
Hey bartender!
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No hardener, just reduced and sprayed
PRC
Well-Known Member
I painted my Shadow with it. It's pretty easy to work with. I used the JD hardener.
Does the owner know your the one that painted it?
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Ben Drinkin
Hey bartender!
Yep. He provided the paint and insisted it be used. Kid had a ****-ton of money in that thing (502 crate motor, 700R4, Dakota digital guages, and on and on...). Then insisted on JD implement paint.. I did what I could.. Super nice kid. Army Captain. Just wanted different. To each his own..
Ben Drinkin
Hey bartender!
PRC
Well-Known Member
About 3 years so far. Car is out outside about 50% of the time. Still looks about He same, other than the owner induced scratches.
. I did one other car in blitz black a while ago. Went 9 years before it was repainted. Blitz was still in good shape.
dodge71demon
Well-Known Member
Depends what you call dull -- possibly you would want to add the hardener anyway so that would IMO give you the proper sheen
John Deere equipment black enamel comes in Gloss Black, Medium Gloss Black, and Bitz Black which is more of a flat black.
Have to stir it up good so the flattening compounds in the paint stay in suspension and do not settle to the bottom of the paint can.
The can label says that it is self priming. I do 2 coats using the first coat as a prime coat. On the underbodies I actually brush the first coat into the seams and any scaly areas to work it good into the pores of the surface. Then spray the final coat on to give it a nice uniform finish and seal it up.
I mostly use the Medium Gloss Black with a hardener to paint my frames and seal up underbodies.
Here is a picture of 2003 Grand Caravan underbody that was just sealed with the Medium Gloss Black.
They lose some of the sheen after it has had proper time to dry down, like overnight.
Also here is a 16' car trailer that was just painted with the Medium Gloss Black, I like that finish for equipment as it is not so shiny.
The online supply of this good hardener for the John Deere Equipment Enamel is getting in short supply.
Synthetic Enamel Hardener:
Good paint. I believe it is Martin Senour paint.
Still looking good after all these years. (10 years now)
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The hardener makes it dry a lot quicker, makes it a lot tuffer. If you get a run in the paint you can sand it out and recoat it the next day.
Without the hardener it is more gummy, can wrinkle if you recoat it before the recommended dry time (days). Just all in all a lot nicer to work with when you use hardener with it, gives you more options if problems turn up.
Going to rez this old thread. Just painted my wing and hood JDBB. Made a mistake this afternoon applying the last few coats on the hood outdoor in direct sunlight.. I understand that is a no-no... now. The finish in a few spots is rough like sandpaper, can you wet sand this stuff? Is it worth it to try or should I just knock down the rough areas with 400-600 after it cures in 24 hours and shoot it again earlier in the day out of the sun?
Scamp Rhonda
Well-Known Member
I would sand it with 600 or finer and then thin the blitz black a lot, maybe 2 to1 plus a little hardner. I used a 1.4 tip and it came out really well on my stripe.
Odd thing is it came out great on the gull wing... so I think the mixture is ok. I went 10-1 with the JD thinner as per the instructions on the paint.. no hardener & 1.4 tip. I'll need to wait till Sunday or Monday till I can get back to it anyway, instructions say to let it cure for 36 hours before doing anything to it. Thinking I might just knock down the rough spots with some 600 and re-shoot it. Seeing as it has so much base coat down already, I think I'd be able to touch it up with just 1 or 2 coats yes?
Yes you can recoat it if you used the hardener as soon as it no longer leaves a finger print to the touch.
As in post #20
As in post #20
Scamp Rhonda
Well-Known Member
I'm not a pro but I have done a lot of painting. I would thin it a lot more and shoot two more coats. That should keep you from getting dry or rough spots. I was taught that "thick is ick" and "thin is in".
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