Jumper wire

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74 360 dart sport

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I have been trying to figure out the no spark and no power to the coil positive side. So I ran a jumper wire from positive side of battery to the positive side of coil. Boom engine starts right up went to turn the engine off. key in off position and it would not shut off. so I pulled the jumper wire and it then shut off. What does this mean bad coil. Thank you Tom.
 
I have been trying to figure out the no spark and no power to the coil positive side. So I ran a jumper wire from positive side of battery to the positive side of coil. Boom engine starts right up went to turn the engine off. key in off position and it would not shut off. so I pulled the jumper wire and it then shut off. What does this mean bad coil. Thank you Tom.
Ignition switch or wiring going through the bulkhead
 
Modern day parlance, a VOM is a multimeter. Didn't you go 'round with this previously? I thought you found it? Or thinking of someone else?

Here is how this works

I ignition switch is the "key" to the whole car. It is not magic, and it only has so many inputs and outputs

Input--Power to the switch comes from the ammeter circuit and is HOT all the time

OUTPUTS. In the "start" position, there are two separate switches (contacts) in the ignition switch that operate together, but which are isolated to prevent feedback. This is the "S" "start" contact, and the IGN2 bypass circuit. The S circuit goes (originally) through the seat belt interlock on 74 only, and with the clutch depressed, or the automatic in park/ neutral, the "start" fires up the start relay

The bypass circuit does ONE thing. It runs a wire from the IGN2 contact, through the bulkhead connector, to the coil + side of the ballast resistor, IN OTHER words, it feeds full battery power to the coil + during start

When the key is released to the "run" position, TWO OTHER circuits come alive which HAVE BEEN DEAD during start/ cranking

These are the ACCESSORY circuit which feeds things like the radio wipers heater, etc, and the RUN circuit.

The RUN circuit comes from the key, also feeds circuits in the cluster and warning lamps, and goes through the bulkhead to power the ignition box, and the end of the coil ballast which then drops down to the coil

IF THIS IS DEAD during START, HOW DOES THE ECU get power?

Again, in start, the IGN2 feeds full power to the coil+. THERE IS NO OTHER POWER coming from the ignition switch. This power feeds BACKWARDS through the ignition resistor/ ballast, and powers up the ECU through the ballast. In other words, the ECU power wire DOES NOT receive full battery power when starting
 
In "run" you should see (it varies) somewhere around 6-8 or 10V at the coil, with the engine stopped. If you see full battery, the coil/ ign box are not drawing current.

In "start" you should see "same as battery" at the coil +. If the starter grinds the battery down to 11V, then about 11 is what you should see at the coil +. IN NO CASE should the coil + be reading LESS than about 10.5 when cranking
 
Possible trouble spots. If you are losing ignition power in either "run" or "start" the switch itself, the switch connector coming out of the column, or the bulkhead connector, as well as "hacks" made by previous owners, or other splices and wire end terminals.
 
So I ran a jumper wire from positive side of battery to the positive side of coil. Boom engine starts right up went to turn the engine off. key in off position and it would not shut off. so I pulled the jumper wire and it then shut off. What does this mean bad coil. Thank you Tom
You "hotwired" your car, that's how cars were stolen back in the day.

You bypassed the ignition switch, that's why it would not shut off till you pulled the "hotwire" off the coil.

But you did prove that the coil is NOT your problem.
 
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