Junkyard 360 found...should I pass on a modded motor? pic..

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MRGTX

MRGTX

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This motor is sitting in a '73 D100...supposedly running, supposedly a 360 (though I would verify both facts before buying)...Holley carb (unidentified...does anyone recognize it?) rusty Headers, ugly green paint.

They want $580...may include starter, etc...would you chance a modded motor like this?
 

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Well, It may or may not be a good deal.. Deff need to hear it run first, maybe pull a valve cover and have a look to see how clean it is. It could be a recent rebuild with not many miles...You sure couldnt buy a core and rebuild it stock for that money.. It could also be a worn out pig, with a paintjob, just check it over closely!!
 
Only If its rebuilt recently, no smoke ever, no ticks, no nothing but kitten purring. Even then I would want a money back guarantee
 
That truck "may?" have a 8 3/4 rear in it. Probably would be a 741 case, but if it's a sure grip and a decent gear, i would try and work that in the deal and maybe get them both cheap?
 
pull the puggs you know that i would pull the heads might be accorns in the pistons

shooot some piss in it and see it it will rotate i got stock slugs and rods if you need some i got brand new kb 107s on sir rods i need 4.030 for mine iany 1 has a brand new set to trade then u got to stripp and have it magged i would offer 350 see what he dsys depends how bad you need 1 did you look over graigs list first see if theres a running 1 on there with junk car or a gem
 
thats a great i dea too rick but still back at square 1 is it coal or gold good to see yah on rick hope all is well on the home front
 
I would pull one valve cover and look for sludge build up and see if it has adj. rockers. Pull the plugs out and check and see if they are oily or dry,then check cranking pressure. How do the oil and coolant look ? Even the tranny fluid can give you idea of how it was maintaied. Clean and gap the plugs then inspect the cap,wires and rotor. Start it with fresh gas also. All this will help eliminate the seller from blaming poor running on them. If it has an oil gauge thats a plus. If not,bring a mechanical gauge and hook it up. Might be a stud,might be a dud. Good luck.
 
MRGTX said:
Good reference points for price there...thanks. I'm all for haggling to get the price down...but i'm curious as to what you guys think of picking up a motor that has obviously been "enjoyed."
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Nothing wrong with it at all. I "enjoy" my motor all the time and I believe I can get another hundred thousand out of it. You never said what you were going to do with it. If you plan on going through it anyways, I wouldn't think twice about picking it up. Just open it up before the junk yard warranty expires. I think you probably have a couple weeks.
 
In a truck it will also have a small block 727, see if you can get the trans thrown in. Ensure it is a 360 - check out the casting numbers on the left side of the block by the starter. If it runs decent and you want to use as is or do a quick at home rebuild, why not? Check to ensure there is no water in the oil or heavy sludge build up in the engine.
 
I wouldnt buy it. Whomever modded it would have pulled it before junking the truck if it was worth a dang.That is unless its totalled. Did you pull the breather? Drain the oil and see if water comes out.
 
If you get the whole truck, the trans, rear end are worth something. The radiator if good will work in a car and is definitely worth $100.
 
Its probably a stock motor with an intake that's been painted green and some chrome valve covers.

I can't imagine anyone would do a serious rebuild and use a stock intake.

Carb looks like a run of the mill Holley aftermarket replacement. Don't think anything back then had an electric choke?
 
Bad Sport said:
I'd offer them 300.
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Yeh.....WITH the transmission


Way too much money for an unknown engine

Easy to id

Holley should have an LIST number on the choke airhorn right in front

See the blue ground cable? Scrape the BLOCK clean immediately below the head/ block parting line, below that cable. There will be a string of numbers (except for some rebuilds) and the CID, whether 318/ 360, will be right there in that stamped, not cast, number string. If it's been XXXX'd out, it's some sort of rebuild, and you'll have to get underneath and look on the side of the block for casting (raised) numbers
 
Mo-Par said:
I would pull one valve cover and look for sludge build up and see if it has adj. rockers. Pull the plugs out and check and see if they are oily or dry,then check cranking pressure. How do the oil and coolant look ? Even the tranny fluid can give you idea of how it was maintaied. Clean and gap the plugs then inspect the cap,wires and rotor. Start it with fresh gas also. All this will help eliminate the seller from blaming poor running on them. If it has an oil gauge thats a plus. If not,bring a mechanical gauge and hook it up. Might be a stud,might be a dud. Good luck.
Click to expand...


X2 but no need to pull the valve cover on the cheap aftermarket valve covers, just pop a breather cap off and you can see the valves.
 
Carb looks like a 1983 to 1985 5.0 Stang carb. Not worth messing with,on the carb.
 
I'd grab a good battery and an oil pressure gauge check all the fluids, fill the float bowls and fire that puppie up.....looking at the install everything looks neat /nothing cobbled up...could be there just because of fuel mileage or wrecked/trans or rearend may be toast????...get her fired up and run for a while for that kind of money if its a good running engine then the price dont seem all that bad
 
If it isn't being sold as a runner with a warranty, assume it's a core motor and spend accordingly. Can you hear it run? Personally I think the asking price is a bit steep for a complete dressed "supposedly runs".

To me it looks like a mid to late 80's 318/360 with a spreadbore Holley. Would probably need a different oil pan to put in a car.
 
Looks like a 2 bbl intake with a carb adapter. The only mods may be the headers and carb which are useless. Go to a u-pull-it. and buy one for 175 with the trans. They pull them for out for youfor that priceand if its in the motor section you can start it. Remember that truck is there for a reason if its not smashed????
 
See that snow in the valley between the intake and valve cover? You can bet your butt that water has seeped thru the intake gaskets and into the cylinders, for quite a long time by now judging by the leaves and snow buildup in the engine bay. Ive seen this happen too many times before. It would end up being only a (possibly) rebuildable core. For that price, pass.
 
pass, the trucks dont get snow under the hoods unless its not been on for a tick, the 73 trucks did have the 8 3/4 and should have 3.23 to 3.55s since its a half ton, will have the 727 unless its a swb then it have been hot rodded alot, but i bet if you seen the air cleaner its rusted too and they dont really rust that ive seen unless the hoods been off. again for 580 pass theyre basing that off the headers and carb but i agree and think its a factory ford carb. and forget 300 offer 150 cause the carb is useless as is the intake valve covers and i bet it will need rebuilt. pass pass pass
 
Great info and opinions, guys...all greatly appreciated.

The motor comes with a 6 month guarantee. They're pretty confident that its a solid runner.

Is that really a 2bbl manifold? Come to think of it, my 318 intake looks very similar.
 
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