Junkyard 5.9 for my 72 Van

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CichliDart

CichliDart

Well, where is it now?
Joined
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Location
SF East Bay, Antioch CA.
Just got my 5.9 yesterday, waited 3 weeks for delivery. I was supposed to get a 5.9 with 99k, but it had a dead cylinder. They sold me a 97 5.9 with 109k.

Someone had it at least partial apart at one time.
CH318A cylinder heads.
I pulled a valve cover and the intake and nothing looked new or upgraded that I can tell.

I will try and post pics of the cam, I can only see 3 or 4 numbers on it, maybe one of you can identify it?

Backstory, my 1972 Dodge van with 360 LA lost some cam lobes to what I think is low zinc oil. So it is running around as my daily driver missing on one or two cylinders. So I thought the money needed to repair the LA 360 could go toward a 5.9 swap. However I have anemia and kidney failure so I am always exhausted and do not have a lot of strength for wrenching. So I paid for an engine from a yard rather than pulling it myself.

Mike

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Of course they delivered it basically stripped, no exhaust manifolds, no engine brackets, pulleys etc. The front pulley bent from dropping it in the truck. So today I will try to hit some local pick n pull yards to piece that back together as I want to run the serpentine belt. My LA 360 had a horrible mount for the power steering pump, that despite attempting to fix more times than I can count still screams and screeches. So I want to run a serpentine setup to try and get around that.

I have new water pump already but think I will order a new balancer and pulley to go with it. Need to think on which alternator to run as well.

Mike
 
Oh man, I wonder if those are the good Engine Quest heads that are no longer in production? Looks like it may be original version from Australia. That would be a good score.
Sounds like a good swap plan. Just look for power steering pump and bracket from a newer van. The van bracket is different than full size pickups.
 
rdunnam said:
You will need an intake that will bolt onto the magnum heads, straight down vertical holes. Can use your distributor. Your exhaust manifolds should bolt up as well. Professional Products 55026 Professional Products CrossWind Intake Manifolds | Summit Racing
Click to expand...

I neglected to mention I picked up a 7477 Edelbrock several years and plan on using that with the pulley for bypassing the air conditioning. Air conditioning that big old van would be great but when my brass radiator got stolen a few years ago they took the condenser with it. Maybe someday I can install an aftermarket setup?
I went to a pick n pull last week and got most of the front serpentine setup, brackets, bolts, tensioner pulley, pulley, Power steering pump and bracket. I know the A body swap needs the Van bracket for battery space but I am not sure if that is needed on a B100 engine compartment. ? I did not pick up the alternator or wiring harness for it, did not have the right tools for the harness and did not want a pick n pull alternator.

Any advice on installing a high Amp alternator? At the moment I am running an HEI distributor and I forget the details on voltage regulators and HEI.

Mike
 
JoePole1 said:
Good score on the EQ heads and good call on the Crosswinds unless you want to use the later style A/C. If running the factory serpentine you will need electric fuel pump. No provision for mechanical FP on the Magnum cam/timing cover. Check Magnumswap.com - Your source for Dodge Magnum and Mopar engine swap tech.
Click to expand...

Thank you,

I mentioned in the above reply that I am going with an Edelbrock 7477 and pulley to replace the AC pulley. Thanks for the link and tips.
My LA 360 lost the ability to use mechanical fuel pump years ago(flattened fuel cam?) and I have been running an electric holley fuel pump so I am ready to go in that area but that godawful racket from the pump is right under my seat! I need to work on making that thing quiet!

I have two fuel tanks of which the back one has a leak and all you can do is smell gas when it has gas. I bought a replacement tank a few years ago but it is a royal PIA to work on so that is on hold. The back up tank is behind the driver on the driver side, and would be a good candidate if I ever wanted to go EFI with in tank pump.
 
Finally got the heads off and engine on the stand. The heads look like they came right out of the box with no mods. No porting etc. I did not measure valve size yet or look closely at the valve springs. Have not looked in the intake as I do not plan on using the barrel intake. I need to try and set aside enough time to port match the intake and heads, I know it is only going in a Van but I think we all know every little bit helps : )

When I pulled the pan off I pulled a washer out of the screen on the oil pump intake. Small washer, I will try to include a pic as it is easier than describing it. The residue on the bottom of the pan felt a little gritty and had a light metallic shine to it when held up in the sunlight. I have certainly seen worse but cleaner would have been better.

I did notice the harmonic balancer came apart! The outer ring slid back toward the block and it is very noticeable! Like third of an inch or more. I will try and post a couple of those pics as well. The crank seemed to rotate easy enough with a long ratchet on a pulley bolt to turn it. As much as I don't want to take a rod cap off I better do it to see if the bearings got hammered.

Oh! Anyone know the size of the crank bolt?
I can't find my socket and need to get a new one.

Mike
 
Be very careful with the high output Alternator. How high are you going? At minimum bypass the Ammeter and the wiring pass through the bulkhead. May also need to upsize factory wiring. Many threads on this subject. Also in the tech section of this months MoPar Action if you get it. I'll try to post a screen shot tonight.
 
Your engine looks way cleaner inside then this 96 318 I’m working on! Nice score on those heads.
Crank bolt is a 32mm. At least that’s what I’m using!

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JoePole1 said:
Be very careful with the high output Alternator. How high are you going? At minimum bypass the Ammeter and the wiring pass through the bulkhead. May also need to upsize factory wiring. Many threads on this subject. Also in the tech section of this months MoPar Action if you get it. I'll try to post a screen shot tonight.
Click to expand...

You made me stop and think on it for a while Joe. Decided to go with the 90 Amp size that was a regular option on this engine I believe.
While I have been upgrading wire as I go I would rather not have a lot of down time.

I missed at least a week of working on it, not feeling well.

I did see the rocker arm discussion and if I can scrape up the cash before reassembly I may go that way as well.

Mike
 
CichliDart said:
Thanks for the crank bolt size info. Still have not taken the mains or rods apart to see how those look.

Mike
Click to expand...

Just a FYI, it is recommended to not mess with the ports on CH318A heads except for a port match as they flow well already.
230 cfm if I remember correctly.
I’m running 96 5.9 with the CH318B heads and small port Edelbrock dual plane with a Holley 770 Street Avenger.
Mild cam and Hughes springs, retainers and locks.
Stock rockers have been fine for 5+ years in my daily driver. :D

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Are you going to need a different oil pan Mike? For the Van?
 
CichliDart said:
Thanks for the crank bolt size info. Still have not taken the mains or rods apart to see how those look.

Mike
Click to expand...
Mine were at the copper only on the rod side. Cap side looked like new. I’m thinking this thing must have had severe spark knock for a long time. The mains and crank look like new. Hope to install next week

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TrailBeast said:
Just a FYI, it is recommended to not mess with the ports on CH318A heads except for a port match as they flow well already.
230 cfm if I remember correctly.
I’m running 96 5.9 with the CH318B heads and small port Edelbrock dual plane with a Holley 770 Street Avenger.
Mild cam and Hughes springs, retainers and locks.
Stock rockers have been fine for 5+ years in my daily driver. :D

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Click to expand...

Thanks Trail Beast! I appreciate hearing that. Just port matching if I can get top it :)
Your car looks great!

Mike
 
Long time no post.

I had to stop driving the van as the brake lights and then tail lights stopped working.
I did most if my testing a couple months back before my anemia got in the way. Taking procrit shots for anemia and just got the go ahead for a Kidney Transplant. Today was the first time I felt good enough to look into the van again. I have had to take Lyft to work the last couple months and am sick of it.

I have two "relays" on my firewall that are not labelled clearly on my wiring diagrams in two books as well as the online source so many have provided here on Abody's. I will post a picture below. Yes the wiring is a mess and I want to clean this up and replace the4 old crummy wires and connections when I replace the "relays". I think the "relay" the right is not functioning as no power goes past it. Any idea on part numbers or where to buy replacements?

Before the anemia stopped me I started disassembly on the engine stand and noted that whoever re ringed this thing had not read or listened to instructions. Most of the rings have the gaps in the same location. Ugh, so much for a quick and easy swap. I had no desire at this time to go this deep into this. Perhaps this is why the pistons were so filthy.

Any suggestions are appreciated.
Mike

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No idea what those are for, but based on the corrosion and the fact that they are just twisted wires smashed under the nuts, doubt they work.

Might as well put good connections on them and see if it fixes your problem.
 
Those are circuit breakers, not relays. Should always have a closed operational status (current allowed to flow through) unless something past them is shorted, or the circuit breakers are faulty (open all the time).
 
Check fuses and power at the brake switch. Just went thru this same issue On the dakota
 
DionR said:
No idea what those are for, but based on the corrosion and the fact that they are just twisted wires smashed under the nuts, doubt they work.

Might as well put good connections on them and see if it fixes your problem.
Click to expand...

Yes Dion, I was trying to knock it all out at once.
Maybe tomorrow I can cut some fresh wire and solder some connectors.

Mike
 
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