Just bought my first mopar. Looking for help!

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Garrett Ellison said:
There are so many reasons I would use that car for a big block build, but the main two for me are 26 inch core support opening for a big radiator and that it could weigh the same (or less) as a small block A/C car after lightening.
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I found a 440 with 727 trans all stock and complete for 1k is that a decent price? Will need to be completely gone through
 
I cant see the front end but the hood appears to have the rib in the middle which means bird beak hood. The rear bumperettes were the thicker rubber pads, correct for 73. 74 bumperettes got even thicker. No shock absorber front bumper mount on a 73, that started in 74. Rear bumper never got a shock absorber mount as far as I know.
Another dead giveaway that its a 73 is the door glass....no triangle vent windows.
Yes, the tail lights in the bumper were used from 70-73. 70 were two lights, 71-73 used the 4 as pictured.
 
Boogeyman Racing said:
How much would you list the rear end, Tires, wheels, shocks, and springs for??
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actually, i wouldnt
i would sell the rear end, shocks and springs, list them for $100.00 and be happy if i made a connection in the process (a lot would depend on the brakes)

the wheels, i would hold onto until i got the front end redone to match the rear end
(it would be a lot easier to sell a set of four wheels)

oh and once you get that dana bolted in, that "posi" magically turns into a "sure-grip"
 
and i think you can do better, on what is basically a core 440 and 727
(we just saw a BB 727 go for free on here)
 
I found a Dana 60 with winters mini spool. 4:56 gears. Strange gun drilled 40 spline axles. Third member posi all that good stuff just needs rebuilt. For 500 bucks. What do you guys think? Good deal? It's narrowed to 36" and has all 4 link plates welded in
 
I would check for obvious problems like the wear pattern on the gear, chipped teeth, etc. I’m wondering what the axle originally came out of. No limited slip differential, mini spool locks the rear end by replacing the side gears with a solid steel cylinder with a hole for the cross pin to pass through. If the housing has been properly converted with good welds and true axle ends, and quality welds on the brackets/perches then it’s a screaming good deal even if the only thing you can use is the strange axles and the housing.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
I would check for obvious problems like the wear pattern on the gear, chipped teeth, etc. I’m wondering what the axle originally came out of. No limited slip differential, mini spool locks the rear end by replacing the side gears with a solid steel cylinder with a hole for the cross pin to pass through. If the housing has been properly converted with good welds and true axle ends, and quality welds on the brackets/perches then it’s a screaming good deal even if the only thing you can use is the strange axles and the housing.
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Okay thank you for the reply. I'm going on Sunday to check it out. It's all disassembled. Basically they ran the combo before. And bought new axles and spool posi for it but decided to go a different route. So its currently 100% dissembled. Pics show the axles and spool still in box.
 
36 inches wide rear axle with a four link, tubs, and a set of steam rollers. Throw a hairy big block in and you are living my dream!
 
Garrett Ellison said:
36 inches wide rear axle with a four link, tubs, and a set of steam rollers. Throw a hairy big block in and you are living my dream!
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That's exactly what I was thinking!!! Lol I'm curious to how much a stock 440 can be bored and stroked? I see they sell 540 cubic inch stroker kits for them??
 
I favor B stroker builds more than RB. The B block is stronger by design in stock blocks. When you are talking about 538 plus inch RB engines, you really need an aftermarket block and some really high end cylinder heads to take advantage of it.
-440 Source
 
Garrett Ellison said:
I favor B stroker builds more than RB. The B block is stronger by design in stock blocks. When you are talking about 538 plus inch RB engines, you really need an aftermarket block and some really high end cylinder heads to take advantage of it.
-440 Source
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Okay yeah I was curious to how much you can actually bore and stroke them.. that site has tons of stuff btw. Very cool!
 
It’s a good source for information, especially on the blocks. ARE engineering also has a lot of useful information. On the economy stroker kits, I hear that the Scat stuff has the best quality in the lower cost stuff. In the higher end stuff Molnar Technologies, K-1/Wiseco, JE/SRP, Callies & Compstar, Manley, Crower, etc. But with of all the stroker stuff out there, though, a big crank doesn’t always mean big power. Buy as much cylinder head as you can afford and build the rest of the engine around that. The TFS heads are very good. The people who have been there say that a 470-496 inch engine is the limit for the stock port window of a factory based head and larger builds favor a Max Wedge sized port. I have seen many racers with 451-470 inch engines that ran quicker than 496-500 plus engines because more available funds were put towards the cylinder heads. 451 or 470 can use a factory crank and stock type rods, the other build take aftermarket cranks and should really use aftermarket rods. But even a stroker with undersized heads is a load of fun in one of these cars, it’s like the torque of a black hole. There are some members here with some really impressive big block street cars. A stand out example is JohnnyDart’s early seventies Dart with a 470-400 tunnel ram. Gawd, I love this kind of build...
 
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