Just discovered broken wires coming out of my distributor. Can I replace them?

[cruiser]

I just discovered that the two wires that come out of the side of the factory original distributor for my engine (1974 225 slant six with California emissions distributor) are broken. As you can see in the photo, they are attached to a mechanism inside the distributor. Can I replace the broken wiring and part inside the distributor, and if so do you know the part number and source? Any ideas welcome - thanks!

 

[1WildRT]

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Once installed you need to adjust the air gap between the reluctor wheel & the pick up coil.... Should be .006-.010 set with a brass feeler gauge..

 

[Jadaharabi]

Try @halifaxhops

 

[Bewy]

Are you referring to the crack in the rubber plug that exits the dist?
If so...
- if the harness is long enough, you can cut out the rubber plug section & join the wires [ solder them, use heat shrink ]. Then use a big blob of silicon to secure the wires where they pass through the slot in the dist. Make sure the sil does not interfere with the movement of the plate when the vac adv operates.
- if you do not have enough harness length to shorten the wires, you will need to cut out the offending section & join with extension pieces. Silicon as above.

 

[halifaxhops]

Technically you have to replace the pickup. It is almost a maintenance item also. I have them if needed NOS prestolite 25 shipped lower 48.. Make sure you get one for the 6 cyl.

 

[Bewy]

I do not see why it needs replacing. Yes, an option, but not mandatory. Nearly all the engines I build/tune/modify use vac adv connected to manifold vac. Chrys used ported VA. With MVA, the p/up wires inside the dist are flexed more times than with PVA because MVA operates at idle & PVA does not.
Flex the wires enough times & they will break. I replace the wires with thinner more flexible wire that will last longer.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I wouldn't try to splice them back together. That will affect the signal from the pickup with greater resistance. Just get a new pickup from @halifaxhops. He will fix you up.

 

[Bewy]

No not a problem RRR; that is why I said earlier to solder the wires. The p/up wires can be very long. They are on BB cars with the ECU often mounted on the inner guard; p/up wires have to go from there to the dist, at the front of the engine. The induced current in the p/up wires is very small, such that the resistance would need to be very high before it caused a problem. Another example is the MSD 'box' igns; you can buy an 'extension' harness for the p/up wires if the box is mounted a long way from the dist.