just had to mess with it

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green1

green1

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So, while buttoning up for the trans, swap; I had the idea of putting a dial indicator on the valves, trying to figure out what cam was in it. Pulled the rocker shaft, put gauge on it.
Then when torquing the shaft back down- about the time I decided to back off, as one bolt wasn't right-snap. To the shop.
.430 lift, seems to be just under purple stripe. But it does have the high pistons.
Maybe I can play for awhile, until I get another job. All is black because it is on stands, and trying to set up the 780. That was a trip.

left block.JPG


left head.JPG
 
my 318 had grade 5 stock..... I snapped one YEARS ago.... I only have one grade 8 now, but hopefully I'll change them ALL some day....
 
I had the stock bolt break while the motor was running on the end of the shaft. Found out cause the motor started to idle rough but seem to smooth out after 3,000 rpms. Thought maybe the intake was leaking but compression was way down on the 7 cylinder. So I go to pull the head and taking the rocker shaft out I notice the end bent up and the bolt head gone.

In even thou the brake booster M/C was a bit in the way I was able to drill a small hole in the broken bolt. Took it out with more drills until I was going to damage the threads if I went any bigger. Took a propane touch to heat it and spray penetrating oil all over it. Got my easy out and try to turn it, nope. Well I was pissed the head had to come off so I thought if a machine shop is going to have to remove it, they might as well remove a broken easyout, lol

So I get a socket to fit it and holding it straight and steady I start pulling my socket wench, harder and harder it was going to turn or break I said....the bolt turn :cheers:

I put studs back in, screw those bolts. Hughes had them $85 like and $50 more for one rocker shaft but its been a year and all is good.

Good luck, the bolt wasn't too hard to drill, they do make backward drills and those are the ones to get cause sometimes as you are drilling the bolt will move..the drill does heat the bolt while drilling. Start with the penetrating oil tonight, let it sit overnight and spray more oil tomorrow.
 
I think torque specs for the rocker bolts are only 25 or 30 lbs. What was your torque wrench set at?
 
New problems; just keep going backwards.
Got it swapped over from a 3 speed manual, to a built 727. Me and a bud, 2 hours.
Got a custom driveshaft built; 1 day; $371 out the door.
Then I decided to install the Summit motor mounts, which have clips to hold the engine down, even if the rubber tears. They are 1 1/2" high- My old shot ones were 1 1/4 " high, using a 1/4" shim, so the headers would clear.
Now, The header, driver, is hung on the column locking arm. See pic.
Now, how to cut that lever off, that used to lock the column (70 Duster manual) the easy way? I tried welding it locked back to the column, but it seems to be crap metal the column is made of-don't trust the look of the weld.

column.JPG
 
Let me bring this up again. Now having to replace a chipped piston, I decided to check duration, while one head is off.#6, was gonna do it 180 off. One lifter had bleed down, so I put them in a container of oil, and pumped. One pumped up, the other one wouldn't fart a air bubble. So I checked the rest- 1/2 of the lifters, even under spring pressure, are tight; rest bled down, one month. All random.
I was thinking of finding 2 good lifters in there, use them temp, just for checking purposes.
Do you think I just need to throw new lifters in it, and the 30 degree initial advance problem will go away?
 
If one cylinder is that bad, the rest aren't far behind. Sounds like it's time for a rebuild.
 
Nothing wrong withe the cylinder; Just a chip of the ring land. Bores mike 4.04; no ridge at all.
 
Oh dear...lol. On the lifter... Try setting up the dial indicator on the edge of the lifter body instead of the plunger.. All hydraulic lifters will bleed down and it's no big deal and usually a function of loose lifter bores rather than an issue with a lifter.
On the ring deal... You can't re-use a ring especially on a new piston as the parts wear together very quickly and very intimately. And, you can't simply stick a new ring on the worn bore. If there is NO RIDGE.. not a small one, but NOTHING there to catch you finger nail... Then you can simply rough up the surface and stick a new ring in it. I like to use green scotchbrite over the stones of my flex hone for this... using WD40 as a cutting lube. If there is any ridge at all, I would consider the removal of the engine and bore/honing of all the bores by a shop. The alternative is a fresh new piston with a fresh new ring that has sharp corners, and a ridge that has rounded(worn) corners coming together. There are only a few ways for that to turn out... Broken ring, loss of ring seal at TDC, or broken piston. The best scenario is the loss of sealing...
 
Can't feel ridge with fingernail, new rings then. Do lifters bleed down like that, then pump up at start? Can't hear; open headers.
 
strange how things seem to snowball once trouble starts, good luck
 
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