K-frame and torsion bar removal question??????
- Thread starter Sharko
- Start date
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C130 Chief
Mechanical Genius
Assuming you already have the engine/transmission out, proceed as follows:
Torsion Bars:
1. Remove Upper control arm bump stops on unibody.
2. Jack up car, remove wheels (note LH treads on drivers side).
3. Relax torsion bar adjusters completely.
4. Remove retainer clips at rear of torsion bars.
5. Using torsion bar removal tool drive torsion bars out to the rear (or see alternate method if no tool, DO NOT use vise grips on bars).
K-Member:
1. Remove flexible brake lines.
2. Remove upper shock nuts and bushing.
3. Remove upper control arms pivot (cam) bolts and washers, lean UCA away from unibody.
4. Separate steering column from steering box.
5. Remove k-member to radiator support brace if your car still has it.
6. Remove bolts attaching K-member to unibody; lower K-member from unibody.
Alternate method:
1. Do steps 1-4 for torsion bar removal, and 1-3 for K-member removal per above.
2. Separate outer tie rod ends from spindles.
3. Separate lower ball joints from spindles; remove brake, spindle and UCA as an assembly.
4. Remove strut rod nuts at LCA.
5. Remove lower shock bolts; remove shocks.
6. Remove LCA pivot nuts.
7. Using soft faced hammer and/or block of wood drive LCA to the rear until torsion bar rear hex disengages crossmember; remove LCAs and torsion bars.
8. Complete steps 4-6 for K-member removal per above.
Torsion Bars:
1. Remove Upper control arm bump stops on unibody.
2. Jack up car, remove wheels (note LH treads on drivers side).
3. Relax torsion bar adjusters completely.
4. Remove retainer clips at rear of torsion bars.
5. Using torsion bar removal tool drive torsion bars out to the rear (or see alternate method if no tool, DO NOT use vise grips on bars).
K-Member:
1. Remove flexible brake lines.
2. Remove upper shock nuts and bushing.
3. Remove upper control arms pivot (cam) bolts and washers, lean UCA away from unibody.
4. Separate steering column from steering box.
5. Remove k-member to radiator support brace if your car still has it.
6. Remove bolts attaching K-member to unibody; lower K-member from unibody.
Alternate method:
1. Do steps 1-4 for torsion bar removal, and 1-3 for K-member removal per above.
2. Separate outer tie rod ends from spindles.
3. Separate lower ball joints from spindles; remove brake, spindle and UCA as an assembly.
4. Remove strut rod nuts at LCA.
5. Remove lower shock bolts; remove shocks.
6. Remove LCA pivot nuts.
7. Using soft faced hammer and/or block of wood drive LCA to the rear until torsion bar rear hex disengages crossmember; remove LCAs and torsion bars.
8. Complete steps 4-6 for K-member removal per above.
nothingbutdarts
Well-Known Member
WOW there Chief, you certainly must have done this a time or two!
What Chief said above is it.
If you want to get it apart in a hurry. Drill out rivets holding any splash guards around the K member if so equiped. Loosen tension on torsion bars as detailed above. Remove K member to frame bolts and move the entire assembly forward about 3 inches. K member, lower arms torsion bars all drops out at once.
In any case , if you plan to reuse the torsion bars, mark , note , photograph, whatever, for reference to put them back in the same orientation. Good luck
In any case , if you plan to reuse the torsion bars, mark , note , photograph, whatever, for reference to put them back in the same orientation. Good luck
waggin
moving on ain't easy if you drive a Ford :p
Yep, what they said! The reason you dont use vice grips or any tool that will scratch or nick the torsion bars is because that will make them break under load.
Thanks waggin for that little bit of info I didn't Know that about the torsion bars. this is the last part of my disassembly. So in the spring I can get all the metal work done. Just ordered a new mig welder that should be in today and all my new shhet metal will be ordered as soon as the income tax arrives. I'm so excited for the wheather to warm up a little so I can get back to work on my baby.
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