Kelsey Hayes disk brake conversion question

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Eworth

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Hello all.
I have a 1964 Dodge Dart with 9" front drum brakes.
I bought the following parts from a fellow that had come from a 1967 Barracuda.

Can you all check out the photos and tell what parts I may be missing for the conversion. I know nothing about brakes and will have someone do the install.

Thanks in advance for replies.
Mark
 

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Well, for one thing, you will need the disc brake lower ball joints! I also don't see the disc brake distribution block, you will need a disc brake dual res master cylinder, a set of disc brake lines, and on my 66 there is a second front to rear block that mounts about a foot back from the main distribution block, and requires a line set from a 67 disc car, which will have the line that goes between the 2! I'm hoping you got the caliper bolts!!
 
If your existing drum brake, lower ball joints are in good shape, but they probably aren't, you can drill out the mounting bolt holes to 9/16 inch, to mate up to the spindles.
Then also, 4 each, 9/16 grade 8 bolts.
 
Lower ball joints, is that the same as the lower control arm/ lower steering arm? Please forgive my ignorance. I can use my existing ones if modified?
 
The lower ball joint(LBJ) and steering arm come as a one piece unit. The LBJ installs into the LCA (Lower Control Arm), and bolts onto the spindle.

You may not need a Comination Valve with 9 inch drums on the back. A Combination-Valve is a Proportioning-Valve with an integral Differential Pressure Warning Safety Switch.
You may not need the Metering Block either (separate item).

I have neither a C-valve, nor a M block,with the same front brake set-up, and 10inchers on the rear, but with 275 tires.I imagine the Proportioning Valve might be needed with 205s back there,maybe. But I imagine,with anything else, and 9inchers the P-Valve would probably be optional. I would certainly try it without the P-valve
The Differential Pressure Safety Switch is a good idea, but more for it's practical way to handle plumbing from the dual reservoir M/C, than for it's ability to tell you about a hydraulic problem. The M/C should have a Residual Valve in the rear brake circuit, but NOT in the front circuit.
 
This is awesome info. Thank you. I bought all of what was shown for $100. Can I buy the items that are missing from an auto parts store or are there some of the items which have to be found from a donor car? I have a new dual mastercylinder. Will see if I'll need the proportioning valve. As long as I know what I need, will purchase this winter. Sure like the idea odlf the brake upgrade.
 
You can get everything you need here on FABO. Most are available on-line or at a local jobber.
The bolts to attach the lower balljoints are a special item, but there is a guy here selling them. They are special in that they have a long correctly dimensioned shoulder. Reread the earlier posts. Highly recommended is new lines that pass under the front frame rails, and flex-hoses of course.
-Looking at the rotors and amount of pad wear left, $100 looks like a pretty sweet deal!
 
Cool. I will be researching prior posts so I can purchase what's needed. Thanks.
 
100 bucks? Steal of the week! Good deal. What bolt pattern? came 5 x 4.0 on your car. These might be 5x4.5. if so you will have a issue with wheels.
 
Mopar Tim said:
100 bucks? Steal of the week! Good deal. What bolt pattern? came 5 x 4.0 on your car. These might be 5x4.5. if so you will have a issue with wheels.
Click to expand...

Nope, those are 4"!! They are not redrilled, and they still have the 2 piece hub!! I think the member who is selling the caliper bolts and such is our own hemi71x, who has already posted here!! I would hit him up for anything you may need!!
 
Hemi71x? I will be contacting him. This is an awesome forum. Bought 15x6. 5x4 Cragars from this fellow too today. Front end will look and stop much better.
 
cosgig said:
Nope, those are 4"!! They are not redrilled, and they still have the 2 piece hub!! I think the member who is selling the caliper bolts and such is our own hemi71x, who has already posted here!! I would hit him up for anything you may need!!
Click to expand...

Nope, not me.
A member up in Canada once made a run of caliper mounting bolts, to the spindle, but has sold them all off.
And hasn't made any more since.
 
AJ/FormS said:
You can get everything you need here on FABO. Most are available on-line or at a local jobber.
The bolts to attach the lower balljoints are a special item, but there is a guy here selling them. They are special in that they have a long correctly dimensioned shoulder. Reread the earlier posts. Highly recommended is new lines that pass under the front frame rails, and flex-hoses of course.
-Looking at the rotors and amount of pad wear left, $100 looks like a pretty sweet deal!
Click to expand...


Nothing special about the bolts that attach the ball joint to the spindle.
9/16 fine thread.
The special bolts are the ones that attach the CALIPER to the spindle.
But are pretty much unobtanium, hens teeth, dynosaur eggs, to find in this day and age.
Regular, grade 8, 7/16 fine thread, bolts will work in a pinch, that other members have had to use, reporting no problems, that i can mention.
 
Awe. Crud. Helloooooo. Anyone out there have those bolts to sell? Anyone? Anyone????
 
Take a CLEAR picture of the bolts that you have in your posting, and add them here.
I will tell you if they are are the factory original ones, or not.
Are they 7/16 or 9/16 in your picture?
They may be Caliper bolts, or Ball Joint bolts?
 
If your bolts look like these, they are Caliper mounting bolts.
 

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You are also going to need some new parts. I am attaching a link to one source, but I am not recommending you buy from these guys -- they are very expensive. But they do show good photos and descriptions.

https://www.jimsautoparts.com/brake.htm

There is a foam gasket between the spindle and the splash shield - BR-339 on this page. There is another gasket between the master cylinder and the firewall - BR-477. The master cylinder you want will look like BR-1152 at the top of the listing, but there are different versions depending if you have power brakes or not. You can also choose to use a specific bore size master cylinder to change the pedal effort required.

You might also need to buy the rubber boot for the master cylinder pushrod - KQ-BB1

Don't forget to replace the rubber flex hoses. Do not trust old used ones even if they look "OK".

I suspect used calipers are not going to be fully functional, especially for the price you paid. Make sure all pistons are loose and sliding in the bores. If they are not, order replacements and turn those in as cores.

You will want to check the disks for thickness and whether they are heavily grooved, and probably have them turned. You will want to repack the bearings (at least) or replace them.

The easiest metering block to use would be the one with the built-in proportioning valve -- it saves buying and fitting an external proportioning valve. Here is a link: http://www.classicindustries.com/product/mopar/parts/md2268.html

You will need new hard lines between the master cylinder and the metering block -- these are available from Fine Lines and other places. But because you need lines for a dual system, you can't buy them for a 1964 Dart. Dual lines became standard in 1967. So the ones for a 1967 Dart with disc brakes should be usable, but will probably need to be bent to fit.

I just did this conversion on a 67 Barracuda. Your task is slightly more complicated because you only have a single line system in your 64.
 
Thanks all. I will take better pics tomorrow and follow up to the latrst posts with replies. I appreciate all the help! Thank you.
 
The Caliper bolts which hemi71x posted a pic of are the bolts that I had reproduced and I am trying my hardest to get more of these made. Its just we do extremely large quantities of parts and are really busy right now so i cant get them on a machine but I pushing hard as we are slowing down at the end of the year. I will keep people posted when I make progress.:banghead:
 
10-4 on proportioning valve and hard line between it and the M/C.
10-4 checking brake hoses. ( I did. They are dated from 1992) will stick with them for now since 25 years newer than original. (for now)
10-4 on checking rotor condition and thickness
10-4 on the pistons/ etc. They look rebuilt/pistons clean and rubber seals are soft/supple. and I do know they were on a running Barracuda as of 2 years ago. (the guy upgraded his braking system)
10-4 on foam gaskets between spindle and splash shield.

Regarding master cylinder: I installed a new power booster and dual master cylinder for the drum brakes. WIll see how that works with the proportioning valve to see if good. If not, new m/c will be ordered.

Lower ball joints: Would those be Moog Part numbers: K7021 and K7023 ?? Can someone confirm that please?

I've set the rotors and backing plates aside and took photos of the calipers and spindles.
I THINK I need 2 caliper bolts, based on what I found. Is that correct?
Also, for each spindle, I have 2 large bolts. One side has another bolt similar to a caliper bolt but the hex head is a different size.

Can you all look over the pics and let me know what's missing. Plus, if I need 2 caliper bolts, I see Hemidart67 may have more produced but does anyone have 2 they'd like to sell? And maybe the only similar bolt that I only have one of.

In the interim, will be reviewing more closely the responses above and start taking notes !!

Really appreciate it guys.
 

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Well just by chance I have 2 reproduced caliper bolts left if you need them.Pm me if interested.
 
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