Kelsey hayes Hub help

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Kendog 170

Kendog 170

Let the boy go !
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So the hub on the inner race is loose in hub. Has anyone repaired this before? Thought maybe pressing race with some shim stock or is there an over size race available or repair procedure I haven't heard of yet?
I know I'm reaching .Any thoughts ? Maybe someone has one for sale ?
Thanks in Advance
 
I have to break it down but significant play when pulling on top and bottom of wheel and it's not wheel bearing play. I do remember race going in real easy when I changed it .
 
If that is indeed the problem, you have to be careful fixing it -- the race would need to be perfectly concentric -- shimming seems dubious, to say the least. A machine shop could machine it out larger and press in an adapter ring, or possibly just add a bead of weld and machine that out to the stock diameter. As for DIY solutions, maybe there is a Speed-Sleeve available to fit the outside of the race?
 
Ya, this is an "old timers" trick, from way back when.
Get yourself a center punch with a good point to it, and remove the race from the hub that you want to repair.
Center punch lots of punch marks all over the diameter of the hub, where the race will be.
That will give the new race some extra metal to grab onto, seating the race into the hub.
Punch as many dimples into the race as you want to.
Don't be afraid in doing it. The more the merrier.
Then use some red locktite on the outer diameter of the race, and install it into the hub.
Been there, done that, a few time in my auto mechanics world.
 
Yes I have heard of the punch trick. I was hoping for something like sleeve as MHV suggested but thanks for your input. I better get it apart before I waste too much of everyones time and confirm.
 
when considering just how tight the inner race needs to fit in the hub, consider how tight the outer race fits the spindle. Neither race should spin if the bearing is good. If you can see daylight between the race and its mating surface, scoring that surface may not be a cure. Machining for a bushing could cost more than a good used hub. Good luck with it.
 
Also, the KH outer bearings are really small for the job they have to do,IMO. And the Id of those little bearings and the od of the spindle, often don't match, leading to play right there, even when the bearings are over-tightened.
 
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the spacer keeps the bearings at the right distance. the nut is done up to about 50lbft. Small shims behind the outer bearing inner race for fine tuning the required bearing clearance.

what this does do is keep the inner races tight so they can't spin plus makes the stub axle a little stiffer. Race cars do this to reduce pad knock off on cornering.


I'm in the UK so bearings are not off the shelf. what I did find though is the bearings are exactly the same as used on the MGB or Jaguar E Type. the shims, which you can just see in the top picture, are MGB and the spacer was a modern modification used in the Jaguar E Type that I machined down to fit.
 
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Wouldn't spacing out the bearings as you did effect the rotor placement as well? Do you have to shim the caliper out as well as it's a stationary mount design ? The top pic spacer looks about 1/4" thick.
 
I can't see why, because the spacer is not moving anything but in fact preventing it from moving.
For a streeter,using this system may not be the best idea, cuz as the bearings wear, you have to keep going in there and removing shims. But also, personally,as a streeter, I depend on the piston knock-back to keep the rotors off the pads so I can achieve the low rolling resistance required to make the fuel-economy numbers I sometimes get. Yes, I set my bearings on the loose side. This does not affect streetability or hiway cruising in any meaningful way that I have experienced, and my bearings were used in 1999 when I installed them. That would be over 125,000 miles ago.
A streeter spends most of it's life going in straight lines and at relatively low speeds, and IMO,personally; I have far more important things to worry about driving my classic car, than a wee bit of front wheel "looseness", so long as I know where that "looseness" originates.
That said,
Bozwel's post is an excellent solution for his application, or anyone for that matter, who want's to go thru the exercise.

By the way,on the street, knock-back is not a thing to be feared, even my 15/16 m/c has plenty of capacity to deal with it, just keep your rear drums adjusted decently, to keep the primary piston operating in it's designed range.
.008 knock-back including seal retraction, which is not likely to ever occur on the street, in 8 of, 1" pistons, adds up to about .824cc ..... while this requires just a tic over 1/16 inch travel of a 15/16 piston.
With a 7:1 pedal ratio, this comes to, you guessed it, ~.5inch pedal travel. The rest of the pedal travel that you feel with a Mopar m/c plumbed in the Mopar-way, is all in the rear brakes,front hoses,and system flex. So install braided hoses up front at least, and eliminate some/most of that "excessive" travel.
And I use small diameter rear w/c's with no proportioning, and tires with big fat contact patches,lol. With matching front and rear flex,this provides excellent modulation and feedback..... for a streeter.
 
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