Kevko M302 With Hedman 78050 headers?

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KnuckleDuster

KnuckleDuster

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Anyone running this combo?
Any clearance issues with the pan?

What other headers are you using with this pan?

Anyone using a Milodon Road Race pan with these headers?

What headers are you using with the RR pan?

Thanks!
 
I have sold dozens of them kevko pans. no one has ever told me they had any fitment issues at all.you should be good to go.
 
I haven't ran Hedmann's but I had Hooker comps on mine with the KevKo pan and had no clearance issues. I have the engine out right now and have a new set of Doug's headers that will be going on it and I bolted them to the engine to see if there would be any issue and there was no clearance issues with them either.
 
MRL Performance said:
I have sold dozens of them kevko pans. no one has ever told me they had any fitment issues at all.you should be good to go.
Click to expand...

Thanks Mike. Curious about the crank scraper in the M302 pan...by my understanding a scraper needs to be very close to the crank to function correctly. I have a 4" crank, how can it work correctly for a 3.58 stroke and a 4.00 stroke? Do you adjust the scraper on your engines and if so how do you set the clearance?
I currently have a Milodon windage tray, and have read I wouldn't need it with this pan, what's your take on that?

I added a simple sheet metal baffle to a stock pan, thought everything cleared and found out on start up it sounds like the front two counterweights are hitting the baffles. Now in the process of pulling the engine back out to correct the issue.Disgusted...
I didn't have cash for a new pan then, but could swing it now if it's money well spent.
 
KnuckleDuster said:
Curious about the crank scraper in the M302 pan...by my understanding a scraper needs to be very close to the crank to function correctly. I have a 4" crank, how can it work correctly for a 3.58 stroke and a 4.00 stroke? Do you adjust the scraper on your engines and if so how do you set the clearance?
Click to expand...

I just bought a new Kevko pan for my stroker, so I'm curious about this. No one has ever mentioned adjusting or clearancing the scraper for a stroker. It was my understanding that the scraper DIDN'T have very close tolerances to the crankshaft, that it basically just cuts off the extra oil that is flung up by the crank. I have the Kevko instructions right in front of me and it doesn't even mention the scraper?!?

I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will chime in and set us straight. Here is a picture of the crank scraper while we wait.

pan%202_zpsvpac4sdb.jpg
 
I've been using Ishihara-Johnson crank scrapers in my engines. There is more to scraper effectiveness than simply welding a piece of metal across the side of a pan. This has been with Milodon 8 qt. pans and TTI headers. TTI's also clear the RR pans.

http://www.crank-scrapers.com/Chrysler.html
 
plug up that high would lead to to think..... sump level, or even a place for oil return line.
 
when I looked at it again I notice how much thread there is, that does lead me to think oil return line (but then on third look, the bottom one has a lot of thread aswell)

I kinda like the sump level idea but that kinda makes the dipstick obsolete?
 
my Kevko pan with kickouts had a few bungs welded in. We actually used one as a dipstick hole. They pretty much got their start with dirt track car pans. A lot of Wissota mods ran them when I lived up that way.
 
IMO the Kevko scraper is just a basic scraper that fits all. I'm sure it does a little good but probably not nearly as effective as the ones Locomotion pointed to

The upper plug is a sump level plug. It does not do away with the dipstick. I sure wouldn't want to have to slide under the car to check the oil level each time, LOL... I used it to calibrate my aftermarket dipstick.
 
Mine is on the engine,only issue I had was I was running a windage tray with ARP studs. I removed the tray but didn't swap the studs. The passenger side slope hit the stud. I was able to get it on but it made a tiny dimple in the pan. I don't see any harm in it,and am just gonna run it. Hopefully I'll have the engine and headers back in tomorrow. I will update and note if there are any other issues.


 
Dude, get a dust shield on that transmission while it's out. You don't want rocks and road debris flying up in there. $25 at Mancini is well worth it.
 
I had one already, later model tin one that goes under the starter...snip,snip, a little Chrysler blue, and it's on there.
Motor and trans slid right in, my girlfriend and I had it in and the headers,exhaust and crossmember hooked up in about an hour. No clearance issues. I also utilized the sight plug and found my dipstick marking to be almost a quart high with this pan...good to know.
 
I'm definitely going to use the sight plug to check my new dip stick also.
 
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