Kickdown cable recommendations?

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grassy said:
I thought they were on the same shaft.

What are the consequences of not installing one ? The trans doesn't drop a gear when the pedal is mashed in 3rd ?

Thanx
ian.
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Nope. There's a shaft inside a shaft. The larger outer shaft is for the gear selector. The smaller diameter inside shaft that sticks up above the outer shaft is for the kickdown/throttle pressure linkage.

Like Lonewolf said if you don't hook up the kickdown/throttle pressure linkage you'll smoke the trans. because it controls clutch pack and band servo pressure. In a sense it's a "smart valve" because when your not giving the car much throttle it doesn't send full pressure to the clutch packs and bands so the shift isn't harsh. When you floor it the pressure to the clutch packs and bands increases to handle the extra horsepower delivered to it so they don't slip and that extra pressure also makes it shift firmer. In addition, it works in conjunction with the governor to regulate the shift speeds and without it you'll have no kickdown when you mash the pedal.
 
Wow. I have ordered a lokar...don't need those problems..

I appreciate the help.

Ian.
 
Awwwwww. Damn.

Thanks for the heads up. :banghead::banghead::banghead:

Ian.
 
grassy said:
Awwwwww. Damn.

Thanks for the heads up. :banghead::banghead::banghead:

Ian.
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No problem. I have an extra but it costs so dang much to send stuff over the boarder it'd cost you 3-4 times what it's worth just for shipping. I bet if you post a want ad in the want ad forum someone in Canada would have one cheap
 
While on this subjectI have a question about throttle pressure linkage, that I guess I could answer myself but, seems like the braintrust on FABO has a fairly good grip on things.

If you have a stock small block w/727 auto. Runs, shifts great. Later you replace the intake with a high rise. The geometry of the throttle pressure (kickdown) linkage will be altered. Why couldn't the throttle pressure linkage be altered to compensate?

There are adjustment features built into the linkage system. (sliding clamps, and threaded rod ends , for example) Or why not use a different slotted rod at the carburetor?
One reason why I ask this is that I'm looking at a car that has an altered
slotted rod to compensate for a different intake. Just wondering why this won't work.
 
iScamp said:
While on this subjectI have a question about throttle pressure linkage, that I guess I could answer myself but, seems like the braintrust on FABO has a fairly good grip on things.

If you have a stock small block w/727 auto. Runs, shifts great. Later you replace the intake with a high rise. The geometry of the throttle pressure (kickdown) linkage will be altered. Why couldn't the throttle pressure linkage be altered to compensate?

There are adjustment features built into the linkage system. (sliding clamps, and threaded rod ends , for example) Or why not use a different slotted rod at the carburetor?
One reason why I ask this is that I'm looking at a car that has an altered
slotted rod to compensate for a different intake. Just wondering why this won't work.
Click to expand...

Altering the linkage does work fine if you do it right, but that's the key, you have to know what your doing when dealing with geometry, which some people can't seem to grasp. Another reason to go with an aftermarket cable setup is it's less time and guess work involved and looks more trick and is more compact than the original stuff. If a person has the capability to alter it to work correctly, (which really isn't hard to do), and they like the look of original stuff I see no reason not to do it as long as you have all the parts to do it such as some of the special clips that are getting pretty hard to find. In the end it comes down to your personal preference.

BTW: good to hear someone calling the linkage by it's proper name, throttle pressure linkage. I've pretty much given up on calling it that because it's confuses so many because they only think of half of it's job which is to provide gear kickdown.
 
Went back to my (new and thing a couple hundred miles of me) vendor and there are 2 kits you have to buy....so I bit the bullet..


Thanks
 
ahhh man. Ya shoulda went full manual valve body. My next automatic will have one. :)
 
Just want to hop back on the thread and say I bought a lokar cable and couldn't be happier. It is kinda on the exspencive side but when your building a mopar you kinda exspect that. It took about 15minutes to put in and about 25minutes to get adjusted properly. Highly recommend it!!
 
I broke down and bought the Lokar with the carb and trans attachments.

It shall be installed next year.

Ian.
 
Just wanted to come update the thread and say that I went with the locar cable. It works really well and easy to install and adjust. Please forgive me for calling it a kickdown cable! Shift pressure cable! Lol
 
Sweetjones said:
Just wanted to come update the thread and say that I went with the locar cable. It works really well and easy to install and adjust. Please forgive me for calling it a kickdown cable! Shift pressure cable! Lol
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Lol... You for it fixed,and it works. That's what really counts
 
Meet-Joe-"Dart";1970081304 said:
I use a Lokar one with my 360/904 Combo... really happy with it, and it looks cool.
Click to expand...

I'm putting one in a 66 dart. 318 car, 904 trans. Did you have to trim the outer case? I'm just mocking it up not before I put the engine and trans in. Looks like the cacle itself might be a bit short on the carb side??
Thanks.
Jim
 
make sure you accelerator cable will work or you will have to buy the lokar accelerator cable..
 
grassy said:
make sure you accelerator cable will work or you will have to buy the lokar accelerator cable..
Click to expand...

Have the accelerator cable as well. So, the next question, did you cut the small clevis off the end of the Lokar cable and run the teardrop through the accelerator plate? (as the original)? If not, how did you make the connection at the pedal?
Thanks.
Jim
 
pyrojim said:
Have the accelerator cable as well. So, the next question, did you cut the small clevis off the end of the Lokar cable and run the teardrop through the accelerator plate? (as the original)? If not, how did you make the connection at the pedal?
Thanks.
Jim
Click to expand...

You have to remove the clevis but you don't need to cut it off. The other end of the cable has nothing on it so just pull it out of the sheath, remove the clevis, run it through the pedal and re-insert it in the sheath. When you have it out is a good time to lube it up real good. Dry lithium works real good cause it doesn't attract dirt.

As per your question about the cable being too short. Unless their making them shorter than they used to be their not too short. I have mine on a 408 with a 727 trans. and it was plenty long. Lube your trans. cable up too just like the throttle cable. Makes them work a lot smoother
 
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