KICKDOWN For cable? Please help!

[moparmat2000]

I may do something different with the carb return springs. Havent figured out what yet.

 

[Ironracer]

Teflon coated tube clamp from my aircraft stock.. I have a few..
View attachment 1715744170
View attachment 1715744171

Hmm? Any to sell?

 

[Ironracer]

I think I got lucky with that stock van part curing my problem. You may need to weld an extension on to yours and experiment a bit to make it work.

I built 5 or 6 brackets for the manifold before I finally got one that put the kickdown and the throttle cables in the right place, and I built 3 different brackets for the throttle linkage on the carb itself.

I was really happy I didn't have to do that on the Trans side, that would have been no fun in the confines of my Trans tunnel.

Okay I got some family issues now that I've got a clear head basically what you're saying I can possibly bypass the lever itself as mine takes up at the end where the hole is and possibly change the geometry of the bracket?

 

[Ironracer]

2 inches ctc is the short lever. Some are clocked a little differently. So ur saying the trans will automatically shift at 6500 and u still don’t have full line pressure? Then it’s been highly modified. U probably have more pressure than u need now. I c ask check next week if u don’t find 1 sooner. Kim

That's possible but it's still not pulling the lever all the way back and that's got me paranoid because I've read about trashing Transmissions

 

[Ironracer]

Ran van cable type kickdown lever , and ram van cable holder bracket, along with return spring off a van with a 46RH. 1992 dodge dakota V8 kick down cable. Made carb mounting bracket using a piece off the bracket that mounts the cable on the throttle body end, along with a piece of the old throttle cable bracket and some 1/2" steel angle. I used an edelbrock TH350 bolt on cable end to clip the cable on at the carb end. The eddy 600 has the same throw as the OEM throttle body. All factory parts except for my carb bracket, and edelbrock cable end mount. Heard horror stories of the aftermarket cable kickdowns. This one operates smoothly, and returns nicely. Has a push button adjustment at the carb end. Cable is OEM. Matter of fact, I bought a new NOS mopar brand dakota cable to use. Cost $45 for the new cable. Kept the used mockup cable as a spare if ever needed. Other than the new cable, and edelbrock cable stud for the carb end, I got maybe $20 in used parts from the junkyard and a few hours invested in it.

View attachment 1715746549

View attachment 1715746550

View attachment 1715746551

View attachment 1715746552

View attachment 1715746553

View attachment 1715746554

View attachment 1715746555

View attachment 1715746556

Sir that is extremely ingenious very creative and that shows a lot of talent and dedication. I mean wow I did the little chart thing you got to lay everything out that actually blueprint it that is cool!

 

[moparmat2000]

Sir that is extremely ingenious very creative and that shows a lot of talent and dedication. I mean wow I did the little chart thing you got to lay everything out that actually blueprint it that is cool!

On the carb end of things I saw what another member did to use a factory kickdown cable and made something very similar to theirs including how it was mounted with the steel angle. As far as the fthow, I had the throttle body from the junk dakota I bought for the transmission and wanted to make sure where I was hooking up the cable on the edelbrock would have the same throw. The nice thing about this setup is if you change intakes or add a spacer, the throttle and kickdown are unaffected since they are bolted down with the carb. Plus I think it looks pretty tidy.

On the trans end of things I went to the junkyard and bought levers, return springs, return spring brackets, cables and cable supports out of a V8 ram van and V8 dakota, and mixed n matched the stock stuff. Figured out the all the ram van junque worked perfectly with the shorter dakota cable to clear my trans crossmember. Van cable was an extra foot long woulda been a problem. $20 or so for all of it was worth having to figure it out. Cable pulls and returns smoothly. Nothing binds up. Sometimes stock stuff works the best.