Killed another cam, need to go roller, need recommendations

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If it’s getting solid lifters I always suggest at least tubing the block.

You don’t have to do it but like PBR said the leaks at the lifters are horrible.

Also, 350 open isn’t that high. That shouldn’t kill a lobe.

To that end you need to accurately measure the lifter bored for size and geometry.

If either is off it needs to get bushed.

There is a company that sells a do it at home kit for bushing the bores. Understand that that system does NOT correct lifter bank angles. It just gets the bores back to size and geometry.

It lines up on the existing bore. If you have a couple of lifter bores that are wonky you’ll want to correct that even with solid roller lifters.


Is this the setup you mean? I came close to buying one a few years back, but ended up using tubes.

 
do you guys have any opinions on going hydraulic roller vs solid roller? It appears the solids need a huge bump in spring pressure vs the hydraulic roller
 
do you guys have any opinions on going hydraulic roller vs solid roller? It appears the solids need a huge bump in spring pressure vs the hydraulic roller

I prefer solid roller cams over hydraulic roller cams but I’m drag race only. With that said you can go fast with the right hydraulic roller. My buddies son runs 6.60-6.70 with an RT magnum headed 408 with a hydraulic roller.
 
I happen to have a Custom ground Bullet solid roller with dyno time only, sitting on my shelf.. Right in your specs you mentioned. If it might work for ya, I can post some pics and the cam card. It's pretty rowdy. Whatever you do, don't do a hydraulic roller. I don't know why the heck they even make them!

Would have PM'd you but your inbox is full.
 
I cleare
I happen to have a Custom ground Bullet solid roller with dyno time only, sitting on my shelf.. Right in your specs you mentioned. If it might work for ya, I can post some pics and the cam card. It's pretty rowdy. Whatever you do, don't do a hydraulic roller. I don't know why the heck they even make them!

Would have PM'd you but your inbox is full.
I cleared my inbox, it should work now

Even worse news- I did a leak down test on this engine and #1 cylinder was at 25% leak down and #3 was at 30% so I didn’t even go any further… I suspect all the metal in the oil killed the pistons so now I might be starting from square one. Hopefully the crank is still good but I haven’t got my hopes up, it’s definitely done
 
Killed another flat tappet cam in the w2 stroker so now it’s coming out of the car. I’m sick of this **** so now im looking to go solid roller and I need something pretty nasty… 600+ lift and 250-260* duration at .050” lift… street race/race on pump gas- here’s the setup-ported closed chamber w2 race heads, 3.79” stroker crank 360 (387”) victor w2 intake, 1.6 ratio rockers, it’s got a 3800 stall converter in it right now, but some of this may change depending on how crazy I get with it… my question is who’s roller lifters and cams can you recommend at this point? Do I absolutely need to bush the lifter bores?
I got my hydraulic roller cam from Scott Brown @ competition components, great guy to deal with, I'm running Morel lifters and never have had an issue. I'm also running adjustable rockers, roller rockers can be a pain to set correctly
 
Killed another flat tappet cam in the w2 stroker so now it’s coming out of the car. I’m sick of this **** so now im looking to go solid roller and I need something pretty nasty… 600+ lift and 250-260* duration at .050” lift… street race/race on pump gas- here’s the setup-ported closed chamber w2 race heads, 3.79” stroker crank 360 (387”) victor w2 intake, 1.6 ratio rockers, it’s got a 3800 stall converter in it right now, but some of this may change depending on how crazy I get with it… my question is who’s roller lifters and cams can you recommend at this point? Do I absolutely need to bush the lifter bores?
A cam like this would be a good start. I run BAM solid roller lifters and they are great. Nice big roller end, rebuildable and reliable.

cam card.jpg
 
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