I want to do some restoration of 75 Dart Sport. It likely will include a full paint job. Does anybody know what code indicates a "canopy" vinyl roof, and the up-and-over body stripes? Or, more generally, what code determine the kind of stripes this car may have had originally?
Know the code for option?
- Thread starter younghoss
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The list of codes is really long. How about posting your fender tag, that's easier to figure out.
Demonic
Well-Known Member
The "V" series codes are generally the ones related to vinyl and stripes. Lots of folks here will decode your whole tag for free if you post it.
Locomotion
Well-Known Member
Here is some stripe info but there is a LOT more cool stuff for 1975, or any other year, on this site.
1975 Dodge Dart stripe info.
1975 Dodge Dart stripe info.
I don't know what other website offers such good advice, and so quickly. Thank you to the 2 that have answered already. The link provided by Locomotion would seem to give me the answer, and the suggestion provided by Demonic is helpful too. When I get access to the car again, I'll look for the tag then take Demonic's advice and post all the numbers. Thanks!
If you dont know, the fender tag is on the upper left front fender. If you take a photo from the driver's side looking straight down on it we can decode it.
thanks halfafish.
I have a couple pics, but apparently the car has been repainted, and I find it hard to read all. I can sure post what I've got though. When I figure out how. At present, I have 2 pics in my phone(gallery). How do I send to this forum?
I have a couple pics, but apparently the car has been repainted, and I find it hard to read all. I can sure post what I've got though. When I figure out how. At present, I have 2 pics in my phone(gallery). How do I send to this forum?
I see you joined the forum a few months ago, so it's no surprise you might need a roadmap to help navigate the site.
To send a photo either in a continuation of a thread or as a specific response to one, in the lower left corner is the "Attach Photos" box. I'm an Android guy so I know for sure this process works in that venue - if you are Apple I suspect it's very similar. When you click on the button, it will ask you what you want to upload. Go to your gallery, click on the photo and it will upload to a thumbnail at the bottom of your message. Click on "Insert" then on "Full Image". Now your photo pops up in the thread. Watch where you put the photo, sometimes they interrupt the text making it hard to follow your thoughts. Here is one of my tags, you can tell it's hard to read in spots.
With fender tags, position matters on the codes. Most codes are 2-5 characters and yes they can become obscure over time. Often these are easier to read in person as opposed to a photo. If your pics are hard to read, it helps with decoding if you clarify that line 2, group three reads as "xxxxx". Groups are read from left to right, and the rows are read from bottom to top.
Here are a couple of other tips. I'm going to send you a PM, shorthand for Personal Message. You will get a notice in your email and on the site. It's used to talk directly to another member (or members) without putting everything in full view. Hit the response icon in your mailbox and it will connect us privately.
Another useful feature is tagging. That's where you page another member to get their attention to a thread. As you spend time here you will realize we are chock full of experts in just about all areas. Maybe you are working on a slant issue and want some specific info. Member RustyRatRod is an expert on slants, but he has no idea what you are doing to see your thread. Tagging gets his attention so he can check out the thread. To do this, just put the @ symbol in front of his screen name, like this. @RustyRatRod . Get the screen name exact, including spaces and capitalization, and no space between the @ and the name. He will now get a ding on his end to look this up and see I just made him a guinea pig for tagging which will probably cost me a chili dog should our paths ever cross.
Above all don't be shy, and use the search feature to find info you need. All threads are saved so you can see a thread from years ago that can solve your issue. Easy-Peasy.
Chili dogs are on me because Nu Way in Macon has the best. Get your butt down here and we'll go stuff a few down. Expert.....well thanks, but I really think if anybody is that with the slant 6 it'd be @slantsixdan or maybe @Charrlie_S, but me? I do thank you.I see you joined the forum a few months ago, so it's no surprise you might need a roadmap to help navigate the site.
To send a photo either in a continuation of a thread or as a specific response to one, in the lower left corner is the "Attach Photos" box. I'm an Android guy so I know for sure this process works in that venue - if you are Apple I suspect it's very similar. When you click on the button, it will ask you what you want to upload. Go to your gallery, click on the photo and it will upload to a thumbnail at the bottom of your message. Click on "Insert" then on "Full Image". Now your photo pops up in the thread. Watch where you put the photo, sometimes they interrupt the text making it hard to follow your thoughts. Here is one of my tags, you can tell it's hard to read in spots.
View attachment 1716317140
With fender tags, position matters on the codes. Most codes are 2-5 characters and yes they can become obscure over time. Often these are easier to read in person as opposed to a photo. If your pics are hard to read, it helps with decoding if you clarify that line 2, group three reads as "xxxxx". Groups are read from left to right, and the rows are read from bottom to top.
Here are a couple of other tips. I'm going to send you a PM, shorthand for Personal Message. You will get a notice in your email and on the site. It's used to talk directly to another member (or members) without putting everything in full view. Hit the response icon in your mailbox and it will connect us privately.
Another useful feature is tagging. That's where you page another member to get their attention to a thread. As you spend time here you will realize we are chock full of experts in just about all areas. Maybe you are working on a slant issue and want some specific info. Member RustyRatRod is an expert on slants, but he has no idea what you are doing to see your thread. Tagging gets his attention so he can check out the thread. To do this, just put the @ symbol in front of his screen name, like this. @RustyRatRod . Get the screen name exact, including spaces and capitalization, and no space between the @ and the name. He will now get a ding on his end to look this up and see I just made him a guinea pig for tagging which will probably cost me a chili dog should our paths ever cross.
Above all don't be shy, and use the search feature to find info you need. All threads are saved so you can see a thread from years ago that can solve your issue. Easy-Peasy.
slantsixdan
=..=
Position of codes matters on pre-'66 fender tags; not so much on '66-up tags. These pics are not clear enough; someone put a very thick layer of red paint on that tag, and together with the camera angle here, it's making a good read impossible. If you don't want to take the paint off (or sand the plate so as to take the paint just off the letters and numbers) then unscrew the plate, flip it over, clean/scrub the back as necessary with steel wool, and post a clear, sharp, close-up, full-frame pic of the back of the plate.
Yes it's a 360. As I feared, it's too difficult to read as is. When I get time, I'll have to clean or remove the tag.
thanks guys
NoCar340
The Original Partstitute
Here's what I can make out--or at least, think I can. Some are EWAGs. Read from left to right, bottom to top, we have:
E58 - 360HP 4-barrel V8 ('75 dealer information shows E55?)
D34 - A727A transmission (mandatory with 360HP)
LM29 - Dart, Medium price class, 2-door sport hardtop
L5G - 360HP, 1975 model year, St. Louis production (?)
13945x - VIN sequence number
FE5 - Bright Red
C6XW - Bucket seats, black & white interior
000 - No upper door paint (full door panels)
A16 - VIN added to production schedule October 16, 1974 (this is never the build date!)
103xxx - Factory order number
V4W (?) - Canopy vinyl roof (can't make out last digit - X would be black, W would be white)
U - Build to US FMVSS
A88 - Deluxe interior group: Woodgrain on dash/doors/deluxe wheel, rear-seat armrest w/ashtrays
A91 - Deluxe insulation package: Hood pad, undercoating, additional body insulation, and Noise Reduction package (Noise Reduction eliminated on Dart Sport 360)
B41 - Power brakes, disc front/drum rear
C16 - Console w/floor shift
C56 (?)- Bucket seats, non-reclining
G55 - LH painted racing mirror, remote
G65 - Can't find '75 information, but it's glass- or mirror-related
G75 - Dual painted racing mirrors, LH remote/RH manual
J52 - Inside hood release
K6_ (total stab in the dark) - Body performance stripe (X = black, W = white)
M26 - Wheel opening mouldings
M38 - Bright tail panel trim (taillamp surround)
N38 - Non-catalyst exhaust system
N41 - Dual exhaust system
R11 (another educated guess) - AM radio, 2 watt
If there's something in the extreme upper left, I can't make it out
26 - 26" radiator opening
A0 - No idea. Ed McMahon horn option?
END - End of sales codes
I enhanced the photos, which didn't make them much better, but that's what I got.
The best option is to remove the tag and clean the back so the codes are clearer, as slantsixdan suggested. While doing so, set the tag on a soft surface so you don't damage the paint.
E58 - 360HP 4-barrel V8 ('75 dealer information shows E55?)
D34 - A727A transmission (mandatory with 360HP)
LM29 - Dart, Medium price class, 2-door sport hardtop
L5G - 360HP, 1975 model year, St. Louis production (?)
13945x - VIN sequence number
FE5 - Bright Red
C6XW - Bucket seats, black & white interior
000 - No upper door paint (full door panels)
A16 - VIN added to production schedule October 16, 1974 (this is never the build date!)
103xxx - Factory order number
V4W (?) - Canopy vinyl roof (can't make out last digit - X would be black, W would be white)
U - Build to US FMVSS
A88 - Deluxe interior group: Woodgrain on dash/doors/deluxe wheel, rear-seat armrest w/ashtrays
A91 - Deluxe insulation package: Hood pad, undercoating, additional body insulation, and Noise Reduction package (Noise Reduction eliminated on Dart Sport 360)
B41 - Power brakes, disc front/drum rear
C16 - Console w/floor shift
C56 (?)- Bucket seats, non-reclining
G55 - LH painted racing mirror, remote
G65 - Can't find '75 information, but it's glass- or mirror-related
G75 - Dual painted racing mirrors, LH remote/RH manual
J52 - Inside hood release
K6_ (total stab in the dark) - Body performance stripe (X = black, W = white)
M26 - Wheel opening mouldings
M38 - Bright tail panel trim (taillamp surround)
N38 - Non-catalyst exhaust system
N41 - Dual exhaust system
R11 (another educated guess) - AM radio, 2 watt
If there's something in the extreme upper left, I can't make it out
26 - 26" radiator opening
A0 - No idea. Ed McMahon horn option?
END - End of sales codes
I enhanced the photos, which didn't make them much better, but that's what I got.
The best option is to remove the tag and clean the back so the codes are clearer, as slantsixdan suggested. While doing so, set the tag on a soft surface so you don't damage the paint.
Wow, from Nocar340’s breakdown, that is surely a pretty awesome car. Must have the 8 1/4” rear end in it too, yet another bonus! And, coupled with the Ed McMahon horn, most likely a 1of1!
NoCar340
The Original Partstitute
"Hey-oh!"Wow, from Nocar340’s breakdown, that is surely a pretty awesome car. Must have the 8 1/4” rear end in it too, yet another bonus! And, coupled with the Ed McMahon horn, most likely a 1of1!
We're seriously dating ourselves by making/getting that joke. Most born after 1980 wouldn't understand it.
BIG compliments to NoCar, and big thank you too, for decoding.
I'm pleased that NoCar's translation pretty much verifies what I thought I had. The fellow I bought it from 20 years ago wasn't the original owner. He told me he thought it originally had the vinyl canopy roof(now confirmed) and the up-and-over stripe. That stripe now seems verified with info Locomotion sent me. And, we've confirmed it was originally a 360 car. Those things are a big help for me to know. The seller also told me the previous owner removed the canopy then made the car a hard top and repainted red, but not the original Dodge red.
As I save some money, it's my hope to repaint the real '75 Dodge red, and restore the canopy(white) and the stripe. This is a pic of it now. Some previous owner added the white hood scoop, he thought it looked more sporty. I agree it looks more sporty, but I'm kind of an "original look" guy. If I have it repainted, I could keep the scoop or delete it. Opinions on the scoop? And the stripe now looks good, says 360, but probably not original. Replace it like it is, or go with up-and-over? I need to add my primary goal is NOT investment. An investment is an item I want to sell at a profit. My main objective is seeing it an liking it for my life, and sometime passing on to my son.
I'm pleased that NoCar's translation pretty much verifies what I thought I had. The fellow I bought it from 20 years ago wasn't the original owner. He told me he thought it originally had the vinyl canopy roof(now confirmed) and the up-and-over stripe. That stripe now seems verified with info Locomotion sent me. And, we've confirmed it was originally a 360 car. Those things are a big help for me to know. The seller also told me the previous owner removed the canopy then made the car a hard top and repainted red, but not the original Dodge red.
As I save some money, it's my hope to repaint the real '75 Dodge red, and restore the canopy(white) and the stripe. This is a pic of it now. Some previous owner added the white hood scoop, he thought it looked more sporty. I agree it looks more sporty, but I'm kind of an "original look" guy. If I have it repainted, I could keep the scoop or delete it. Opinions on the scoop? And the stripe now looks good, says 360, but probably not original. Replace it like it is, or go with up-and-over? I need to add my primary goal is NOT investment. An investment is an item I want to sell at a profit. My main objective is seeing it an liking it for my life, and sometime passing on to my son.
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NoCar340
The Original Partstitute
Don't take my decoding as gospel until you've verified it by looking at the back side of the tag. Anything with a question mark or other notation is quite possibly wrong.
I don't care for the current scoop a'tall. In my opinion, it's too blocky for the car's swoopy lines. The white finish is kind of off-putting, too. If you keep it, I'd suggest painting it to match the body. Scoops don't need to be a different color; they stand out just fine by their presence. That's my take on it; opinions are plentiful and varying.
However, if you want a scoop other than what's already there, I'd suggest the "original" scoop used on Dart Sports, as very-well photographed here. It's a great-looking scoop and factory to boot (probably not by '75, though). OER reproduces it, but I can't speak of the quality. Perhaps others can chime in on that. I know this much: Avoid the one made by Showcars in Canada. I've yet to hear anything positive regarding their parts.
Those were always black as far as I'm aware, which might clash a bit with all the white on the car once you've reinstalled the vinyl and over-the-roof stripe. Try it black and see if you like it. If you don't, paint it body color:
I don't care for the current scoop a'tall. In my opinion, it's too blocky for the car's swoopy lines. The white finish is kind of off-putting, too. If you keep it, I'd suggest painting it to match the body. Scoops don't need to be a different color; they stand out just fine by their presence. That's my take on it; opinions are plentiful and varying.
However, if you want a scoop other than what's already there, I'd suggest the "original" scoop used on Dart Sports, as very-well photographed here. It's a great-looking scoop and factory to boot (probably not by '75, though). OER reproduces it, but I can't speak of the quality. Perhaps others can chime in on that. I know this much: Avoid the one made by Showcars in Canada. I've yet to hear anything positive regarding their parts.
Those were always black as far as I'm aware, which might clash a bit with all the white on the car once you've reinstalled the vinyl and over-the-roof stripe. Try it black and see if you like it. If you don't, paint it body color:
It was a 73. I bought it from a friend of mine who was in peril and needed $$$. It was all taken apart, so I put it back together, got it running, sold it, and I split the money with him. I did take off the scoop and painted it black, I couldn’t take the tweety!
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