Known overheat issues 4.7 RAM V8? EDIT FIXED

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rustycowll69 said:
My daughter has over 250k on her 4.7 jeep commander. Never had any problems with the drivetrain. I think the only problem she ever had was a window motor crapped out in the down position.
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I'll counter that with a Jeep a co-worker had at the wheel chair joint. I forget, it lasted "not very many miles." I'm thinking less that 60K and out of warranty. Dropped a couple of valve seats, dropped those valves and the engine was instant junk. Well, 1/4 of a second, anyway.
 
I have seen the water pump impeller loose on the shaft on a 4.7. It would make heat and stay cool at an idle but as soon as you started to drive it would get hot.
 
pishta said:
way too heavy. Cast iron everything! These newer motor were all cast aluminum with integrated water and oil pumps, serpentine drive, MPFI, yadda yadda. They couldn't save the Slant either, too small valves too long of a stroke. Bring it back in Aluminum with a redesigned cross flow head, EFI? Its still a straight 6, long and long for all the new transverse mounted platforms. Sometimes you gotta start fresh. Spitfire motor, over 300HP in a NA V6? Try that in a 5.2 with 2 less cylinders and a wonky balance crank.
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Leave the bottom as is and add aluminum heads. Im not an engineer but ill sacrifice some weight for strength. I currently own 2 mag engines with 200k plus that still run like new. I've never personally seen a 4.7 make it past 100k without a rehaul. I've personally worked on two with less than 100k miles that were blew and probably seen 4 or more others with the same fate
 
My 2010 Ram 2500 will heat up on the highway with the plow on.
Keep it at 45MPH max as the plow instructions state and all is good.
The plow will find the weak links on a truck.
Dodge 8 speed auto transmission are garbage for commercial plowing, they to like to overheat.
My next plow truck will be a GMC. LOL
 
Del, do a general internet search for "Dodge 4.7 water pump failure" and just look how many hits there are. LMAO
 
Tech857 said:
I have seen the water pump impeller loose on the shaft on a 4.7. It would make heat and stay cool at an idle but as soon as you started to drive it would get hot.
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I had that same issue on a Dodge 3.5L. I replaced the timing belt and water pump, and it started to overheat a couple of days later. I took it back apart, and the plastic impeller on the water pump could spin on the shaft. I couldn't believe they wouldn't even pin it to the shaft.
 
pull the plow off, I bet the overheating problem goes away.:lol:
Greenhorns. lol
 
Its suppose to be a tight press fit but parts have to be made to spec to work>
 
67Dart273 said:
Yeh I saw that. But the heater should not work well in that case.
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I don't know. I would think it would work like a **** if the water was not gettin pumped out of the engine very well.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I don't know. I would think it would work like a **** if the water was not gettin pumped out of the engine very well.
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Doesnt matter how hot the engine gets, if the coolant isn't being pumped through the heater core you'll have **** heat in the cabin.
 
65-440 said:
Doesnt matter how hot the engine gets, if the coolant isn't being pumped through the heater core you'll have **** heat in the cabin.
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I'll disagree because the system is under pressure. Water pump working or not, go cut a heater open when the engine is HOT and see what you get.
 
65-440 said:
You haven't seen many 4.7's then! Haha
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I guess you're right my small sample size isn't big enough to draw a conclusion on the entire engine. But in my small sample size im not impressed. I've never owned one but I have worked on quite a few and they were all bad. Lol
 
Yeh it for certain needs a pump to do much with the heater
 
I had no heat in a car once. Darn coolant was about a gallon low! IDK where it went but I filled it up, heat came back and it never needed a top off again....weird. we had a dual zone Suburban that I believe had 2 heater cores. The one in the back didnt work well and I was told that you had to park it up a hill to fill the Dexron coolant or else it will have a large air pocket and will make interior sounds like the office water cooler......Glub glub glubbb. We traded it in soon after than on our first string of Chrysler minivans. Been pretty happy with them although this 2012 seems to eat front brake pads and have gone through 2 front window regulators: the cable comes off the plastic guides and drops the glass into the door. Im now wrestling with this oil pressure sensor, seems to keep tripping the CEL with its failed KOEO self test. I think its a defective sensor or a harness issue.
 
When I was in school our school buses (somewhere around ? 50 ? capacity) had rear heaters, big sob. It would cook your feet. I always figured they must be fun to "burp." Piping was run along one side under the seats. I don't know if they had some sort of booster pump for circulation, or what.
 
67Dart273 said:
My neighbor bought a 4.7 1/2T Dodge plow truck recently, so no real history. It seems to overheat bad on the highway and I did warn him about plow blockage. They tried a new stat. Anybody familiar with "known" issues with this engine? Is there any tricks to filling them? I have not looked at it, he just called me. Heater works REALLY well he says. Bear in mind it's been COLD here high temps last two weeks in low 20's and teens this week.

I told him to try and figure if it is "really" overheating (feel around heads etc) try to find infra-red thermometer.
He said T stat changed things, I even mentioned maybe the new stat is defective
I can't see a rad blockage as it would seem the heater would block first, but ?? (These heaters have tiny passages)
Likely not a water pump or heater would not work "well"

Ideas?
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I owned a 2004 Jeep with 4.7, they are probed to cracked heads. Mine had close to 200k the head repair was going to cost more than the worth of Jeep. I dumped Barsleak in radiator about every quarter and got another 30k out of it until I gave it away. It ran another3k after that until an electrical gremlin took it out. Andy
 
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