LA Pan with MAG gasket...NO WAY.

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Shainesboostin

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Bought a new LA pan for my Mag swap, got the one piece "LEAK FREE" Mag gasket. It wouldnt seal at all. Dosent even make sense.

Pan 2.jpg


Pan 3.jpg


Pan.jpg
 
It makes perfect sense since the two pans are different.
 
Ha, yea no ****. This project is fighting me everystep. Was told this is the gasket to use. So, either this aftermarket pan is incorrect, or the gasket is. I guess I will go see how the LA style gaskets work.
 
The LA pan WILL NOT WORK on a Magnum engine. PERIOD.
 
I did. Thats why I bought this gasket setup! The front, I have to cut, and use the U out of the timing set, but my REAR is wrong it looks like.
 
I did. Thats why I bought this gasket setup! The front, I have to cut, and use the U out of the timing set, but my REAR is wrong it looks like.

Well, if anybody has done it, you're in the right place. Maybe someone will chime in.
 
so...where in the article does it say which displacement oil pan to use ?
because we know the back side is the one that is different between the 318-340 and the 360

and that's where your having issues?

unless I'm overlooking it, perhaps this only works with the 318-340 pan?
 
nevermind, just read the scramspeed description...it does say 360 LA pan
 
have used that combo dozens of times, dont put gasket on pan, put it on block....block holds gasket and pan seals great. I will say I have never used that pan because I refuse to buy anything from Scummit but if its a 360 pan then it will work fine. You do need to use a small amount of grey sealer in two spots on pan where the LA pan has notches for 4 piece gasket. Here is a pic or 3.

gasket1.jpg


gasket2.jpg


gasket3.jpg
 
Last pic I left sealer on so you can see how it comes out hole for LA gasket nipple....once installed it gets wiped clean and seals like a champ. What you are attempting is easy, try it with injection and OD trans in a 64-66 then you will understand why a carbed magnum is a cake walk:D

65 more door.jpg
 
I ran that same gasket on my magnum with a stock 360 car pan. only problem I ran into was the dimples in the factory pan rails. they would not squeeze the gasket to make a seal. a little ultra grey fixed that up nicely.
 
I would recommend NOT cutting the gasket. We use Kevko pans exclusively and they said the same thing, we called them to try and get pan made without LA notches but that would require buying 2500 pans. Just do it like the pics and you will be fine, if you cut gasket it doesnt work nearly as well. Use grey sealer only, not the regular red or blue junk.
 
I would recommend NOT cutting the gasket. We use Kevko pans exclusively and they said the same thing, we called them to try and get pan made without LA notches but that would require buying 2500 pans. Just do it like the pics and you will be fine, if you cut gasket it doesnt work nearly as well. Use grey sealer only, not the regular red or blue junk.
It's not the timing side he's talking about. It's the back, not shown in picture.
 
I'm gonna see what happens today when I set it on the engine first. The front side is easy. Little silicon boom. The rear just looks like a terrible design. But we will see what happens.
 
I'm gonna see what happens today when I set it on the engine first. The front side is easy. Little silicon boom. The rear just looks like a terrible design. But we will see what happens.

The exact reason I didn't use the Magnum gasket, and since I have NEVER had a problem using LA gaskets and end seals I stayed with them on the Magnum. (Just trimmed the edges of the rear one to fit the smaller groove of the Magnum.)
I used the black felt type rail gaskets with sealer and the OE style front and rear rubbers.
 
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That groove in the back is my problem. I thought about hammering it flat but I'm guessing it adds some strength. Even with the LA gasket it wanted to bunch up. there should be an inverted groove on the rear rubber seal that matches the pan.
 
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