LA Pan with MAG gasket...NO WAY.

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skep419 said:
That groove in the back is my problem. I thought about hammering it flat but I'm guessing it adds some strength. Even with the LA gasket it wanted to bunch up. there should be an inverted groove on the rear rubber seal that matches the pan.
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That is exactly why I trimmed the rear gasket to fit down inside the groove on the main cap.
A pair of scissors and 1/8 or so off each side of the OE LA rubber style worked perfect.
I do think I remember trimming off the stubs that normally go down between the block and main cap of the LA motor in the little rectangular holes.
 
skep419 said:
That groove in the back is my problem. I thought about hammering it flat but I'm guessing it adds some strength. Even with the LA gasket it wanted to bunch up. there should be an inverted groove on the rear rubber seal that matches the pan.
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Exactly! The rivet it like the wrong way. Comes up. Should go down.
 
Shainesboostin said:
It's not the timing side he's talking about. It's the back, not shown in picture.
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I know, I showed it because that is the only place you need to do anything, the back just fits in groove and the pan bolts down....maybe Magnums in Oregon are different but he 25-30 I installed are all working fine and leak free with all 3 styles of Kevko pans as well as some stock ones.
 
Just throw the gaskets away and use a nice neat bead of RTV. I've done it even where the end seals go. If you do a neat job, it will come out nice and never, ever leak.
 
Just used the front seal and right stuffed the rear. LA not a magnum. Double checked it before putting it back in the car.
 
I used a cheap 360 pan (from Jegs) on my 5.2 magnum swap about 4 years ago with a magnum 1 pc gasket and after I realized a mistake I made, it worked just fine. magnummopar and I had similar experiences...no leaks after proper install.
 
Did the OP ever get this solved?

I did exactly what MagnumMopar did on my LA block with an LA pan and a MAGNUM gasket. No issues.

The thing I don't understand about all of this is that there is no difference between an LA gasket and a Magnum gasket around the rear main cap, other than being one piece on the Magnum gasket. In both cases, the gasket is intended to be captured by the slot in the cap, and the ridge in the pan squeezes it. So all of the complaining about how the gasket doesn't work in the back makes no sense unless someone can't get the LA 360 gaskets to work either.

Only thing I can see is if someone was trying to install the gasket on the pan and then bolt it up. Gasket it supposed to be on the block so the slot in the main cap captures the gasket.

I can see that being a pain, trying to install the pan with the gasket on the pan and not the block. But, I think I had to do exactly that when I re-gasketed the pan on my Duster with the motor in the car when I couldn't get the gasket to stick until I had the pan up against the block. In the end, I think I got it all located and then pushed the gasket into the slot in the cap before I started putting any bolts in it.

Sorry, kind of late to the party, but the OP never posted if he got it working and I am really struggling to see how it was such an issue to so many people.
 
skep419 said:
That groove in the back is my problem. I thought about hammering it flat but I'm guessing it adds some strength. Even with the LA gasket it wanted to bunch up. there should be an inverted groove on the rear rubber seal that matches the pan.
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What did you end up doing? Putting my pan on tommorow. Finally got my oil pump and pickup. Still worried about it. I dont understandwhy the pan has the grove coming up. thought about cutting it and using gasket sealer. but, we will see what it does tomorow.
 
DionR said:
Did the OP ever get this solved?

I did exactly what MagnumMopar did on my LA block with an LA pan and a MAGNUM gasket. No issues.

The thing I don't understand about all of this is that there is no difference between an LA gasket and a Magnum gasket around the rear main cap, other than being one piece on the Magnum gasket. In both cases, the gasket is intended to be captured by the slot in the cap, and the ridge in the pan squeezes it. So all of the complaining about how the gasket doesn't work in the back makes no sense unless someone can't get the LA 360 gaskets to work either.

Only thing I can see is if someone was trying to install the gasket on the pan and then bolt it up. Gasket it supposed to be on the block so the slot in the main cap captures the gasket.

I can see that being a pain, trying to install the pan with the gasket on the pan and not the block. But, I think I had to do exactly that when I re-gasketed the pan on my Duster with the motor in the car when I couldn't get the gasket to stick until I had the pan up against the block. In the end, I think I got it all located and then pushed the gasket into the slot in the cap before I started putting any bolts in it.

Sorry, kind of late to the party, but the OP never posted if he got it working and I am really struggling to see how it was such an issue to so many people.
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Did you look at the pics? Its not the issue magnumswap was talking about. its the REAR my pan, and another guy that posted a pic, the pan has a lip coming up...
 
Shainesboostin said:
Did you look at the pics? Its not the issue magnumswap was talking about. its the REAR my pan, and another guy that posted a pic, the pan has a lip coming up...
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I did look at the pictures. Did you read my post?

DionR said:
The thing I don't understand about all of this is that there is no difference between an LA gasket and a Magnum gasket around the rear main cap, other than being one piece on the Magnum gasket. In both cases, the gasket is intended to be captured by the slot in the cap, and the ridge in the pan squeezes it.....
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My reference to what MagnumMopar posted was to add another voice to the fact that the gasket DOES work, on BOTH ends, if you are aware of and deal with the gaps created by the magnum gasket.

Maybe you haven't ever built a 360 before? If you are used to a 318/340 pan, I can see your confusion, but I think I spelled it out pretty clearly already how the gasket is intended to work, and there are thousands of them on the road with that gasket that didn't have to have the pan smashed flat.
 
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Shainesboostin said:
Anyone have a stock 360 oil pan mid sump for sale?
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Just to be clear, this not antagonistic in any way.

If you are looking for a stock pan because you think it will be different than the one you have, you will be disappointed.
 
It's on. Have a car pan as well. The car pan IS different. It's flat vs dimpled.

41288.jpeg
 
Shainesboostin said:
It's on. Have a car pan as well. The car pan IS different. It's flat vs dimpled.
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I suspect that your "car" pan is actually a 318/340 pan. There is no difference between truck and car pans in regards to the rear area of the pan, BUT there is a great deal of difference between a 318/340 pan and a 360/Magnum pan in that area.

If the front and rear of your "car" pan are the same, it a 318/340 pan. If the front and rear are different and the diameter is significantly smaller at the rear, it's a 360/Magnum pan, and should have a rolled bead to compress the gasket.

You should see a picture of the two pans side by side here. (My work block the link of the picture, hopefully you can see it)

Just to be clear all 318/340's use the same pan and gasket set while all 360's and all Magnums use a different pan and gasket set.

In the end, glad you got the pan on.
 
Thats a 318 pan i believe.

Yep just checked my garage, ive got one one the stand (next to a magnum with a 360 la pan, a stocker and it fit fine). Idk.
 
I pulled my engine twice because it leaked on the front right side with the magnum one piece. Swapped to a LA style cork, never been a problem.
 
Woods74 said:
I pulled my engine twice because it leaked on the front right side with the magnum one piece. Swapped to a LA style cork, never been a problem.
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Seems like I read once that one of the more recent engine builders like to take the Magnum gasket and cut the front hoop off and substitute an LA gasket in it place at the timing cover. Best of both worlds?

No idea where I read that, though, so it might just be my imagination. ;-)
 
DionR said:
Seems like I read once that one of the more recent engine builders like to take the Magnum gasket and cut the front hoop off and substitute an LA gasket in it place at the timing cover. Best of both worlds?

No idea where I read that, though, so it might just be my imagination. ;-)
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It is what magnumswap.com says as well as Kevco but not the way we have dont it for the last dozen years. Never had to pull an engine nor had one single leak. Not sure why everybody has so many issues with it....
 
Not sure why there is a problem. My magnum gasket was different. I ended up welding the pan corners up. Looks OE and minimal sealant.

pan timing 1.JPG


pan timing 2.JPG


pan timing 3.JPG
 
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