LA Timing 180 out

[MR4V]

Hi All
Made the rookie mistake of lining the cam timing dot to dot on the first LA rebuild, managed to get it fired up once I realised it was firing on number 6.

Now I've read this thread http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=63518&highlight=318+firing+number and a few others and have confused myself on how to correct this, do I just remove the dissy and reinstall 180 deg or do I find TDC compression stroke number 1 with a piston stop and re do the intermediate shaft so it's pointing in the right direction?
Thanks

 

[Bad Sport]

I'm assuming you switched the wires to get it running??

If so, then yes, pull the dizzy up and rotate the button 180* and drop it back in. Switch your wires to original correct firing order.

It's really not a rookie mistake to line them up that way IMO, it's easier to get them in line. Just need to remember to drop the distributor in so the rotor is facing #6.

 

[MR4V]

Thanks Bad Sport
Yes I switch the wires so I could get it running.
Happy Christmas.

 

[Bad Sport]

Happy Christmas.

Thanks, you as well.

 

[RustyRatRod]

As long as the vacuum advance can has room for the distributor to advance and retard its full motion, it really does not matter where the intermediate shaft is. As long as the wires are in order and timed right it will run.

All that mouthful of hooha said, I usually time them up by the book.

 

[Rapid Robert]

If you are up & running then the quality of the cam breakin and the quality of the ring breakin has already been determined. What Rusty said if the can is on the pass side & has room to be turned (which I assume it is) then you are fine tho next time clocking the intergear so the #1 plug wire location in the cap is forward & slightly to the pass side lets the plug wires nestle the neatest & be the shortest lengths possible & this maintains the OE standardization & helps prevent future mistakes (this is timing dots at 12 o'clock/12 o'clock). EDIT better yet would be to leave the dots at 6/12 o'clock, then with a 1&1/4" socket/breaker bar hand turn the crank CCW a bit so the timing marks are at 15 BTDC (I like to go to 20 then come back to 15) then clock the intergear so the rotor is pointing rearward and slightly to the DR side & plug in the #6 plug wire at that cap terminal location & you want the magnet dead even with the tooth. then continue wiring the firing order CW like normal. Vac can on pass side with room to be turned a bit either way. You want the rotor pointing at or close to the cap terminal (rotor phasing) with the springs (rotor) retracted and on a SB the can will shift phasing CCW from its' at rest position. some dizzys have vastly different dist phasing (rotor tip clocking compared to lower dist tang clocking) and a NAPA Echlin rotor (MO3000, $8 & change out the door) with a .060" longer blade (or make one) helps reduce the radial gap & helps with circumferential (rotor phasing) issues. .015"rotor tip to cap terminal clearance is ideal. A can with 9 stamped on the arm will shift the rotor CCW in a 9 deg circumferential arc when the eng is running.