I haven't heard of anybody having issues with it. or ripping a frame rail...
Last one to post in this thread wins!
- Thread starter oldkid
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I have a 904 that was built to handle 450 HP with a 2500 stall and a Gear Vendor over drive and a 8 3/4 possi with Richmond ring and pinion. I am on a budget so the suspension is stock but rebuilt.
I am new to building a car but keeping it light I think helps. Any feed back is helpful even if you think I did the wrong thing.
I was just wondering about the over drive thought maybe you swapped out for something different
Me ether I just remember hearing about it and the boss inspecting our work when we had to weld a new frame section in a car.
Not sure what you mean. I have 4.10 gears and with the over drive in high gear puts them at 3.22 gears and can do 70 MPH @ 3000 rpm. and the Gear Vendor will handle 1500 HP.
I will get a pic.
I swapped out from a 904 to a 46RE Dodges late 90's 3 speed with elc. overdrive and lockup converter, Though maybe you did the same
JeffisOld
Old, Ugly and generally Disagreeable!
Here' some pictures from today of this nasty old girl. I feel terrible for not being able to work much over the summer.
The front end with the new suspension in place. Still some of the PIA undercoating in place. Will get it off shortly. I was hoping to be on the rotisserie by now to save the back but another couple weeks won't matter.
Right firewall, still need to clean up the shock hole and paint off obviously.I
Left front with paint needs off, holes need filled and I need to pull off the wire loom flexible pieces.
Right side trunk area with a few holes/patches to clean up with some nasty rubber sprayed inside. I do plan to get all this cleaned up and use POR on the entire floor and undercarriage. i will get some images of the worst areas of the car which were around the bottoms of the rezr window and the upper trunk gutters which are getting cut out and replaced. What I lack in welding talent I am making up for with complete mastery of the grinder! Slow but effective!
The front end with the new suspension in place. Still some of the PIA undercoating in place. Will get it off shortly. I was hoping to be on the rotisserie by now to save the back but another couple weeks won't matter.
Right firewall, still need to clean up the shock hole and paint off obviously.I
Left front with paint needs off, holes need filled and I need to pull off the wire loom flexible pieces.
Right side trunk area with a few holes/patches to clean up with some nasty rubber sprayed inside. I do plan to get all this cleaned up and use POR on the entire floor and undercarriage. i will get some images of the worst areas of the car which were around the bottoms of the rezr window and the upper trunk gutters which are getting cut out and replaced. What I lack in welding talent I am making up for with complete mastery of the grinder! Slow but effective!
JeffisOld
Old, Ugly and generally Disagreeable!
More for the pickin'...
Here's the rear suspension with the spring offsets and floor pretty much cleaned up.
Here is the rear window R side when I got started.
Here is the same area after my feeble efforts so far. Not done yet!
Here's the rear suspension with the spring offsets and floor pretty much cleaned up.
Here is the rear window R side when I got started.
Here is the same area after my feeble efforts so far. Not done yet!
Dam! good job Jeff You should have been a body man. How big is your compressor?
Are you gonna have to cut the tunnel to make it fit and relocate the mount?
JeffisOld
Old, Ugly and generally Disagreeable!
It's a 5hp 80 gallon 220V. I need it because I re-do a whole lotta **** multiple times. I suck at bodywork, but; I will do it!
Yep all done.. its in the car now. If you look at the rearend pic I posted you can see the tranny mounted up behind it..
your car is in good shape Jeff. is there any rust problems in the top?
We all have to do things over a time or two and I lost my feelings in my hands years ago so I have to use site and a block. but we will tackle that soon enough.
Sorry MMP but the last rear end I remember was a Asian gal. lol
Did you have to build the tranny up or is it good enough being stock.
JeffisOld
Old, Ugly and generally Disagreeable!
I have 2 small area s of the drip rail that I have completely cleaned and pre-treated with the POR prep products and then a small amount of POR putty. I will use a quality seam sealer after I spray the epoxy primer.
Fred, 1. do I need to get 100% of factory paint/primer off before using the epoxy. 2.I have read that you scuff the epoxy with 180 prior to any 2k surfacer. True? How do I do body work after DTM epoxy if I don't remove it.
Hey Biff , get some work done. No more excuses .
well the canucks are playing , wife’s making dinner, having an Arnold Palmer ,tomorrow for sure !
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JeffisOld
Old, Ugly and generally Disagreeable!
I have a question for those much more experienced than I.
The area of vent grill right in front of the wipers is not as clean inside as I would like to see it before it gets all sealed up. Has anyone ever cut a hole behind the dash, or in the firewall, to clean and seal the metal?
Or, just cut out the vent and put sheet metal in the hole?
I know someone is going to give me some simple, common-sense answer that I should've thought of, but I'm just a dumb Jarhead so help me out. Please!
The area of vent grill right in front of the wipers is not as clean inside as I would like to see it before it gets all sealed up. Has anyone ever cut a hole behind the dash, or in the firewall, to clean and seal the metal?
Or, just cut out the vent and put sheet metal in the hole?
I know someone is going to give me some simple, common-sense answer that I should've thought of, but I'm just a dumb Jarhead so help me out. Please!
Fred?
Bondo is good on bear metal and will last no problem just don't use cheep bondo Evercoat is a good bondo and about $80 a gallon but trust me on this don't buy cheep bondo you will work hard sanding it and spend more money on sand paper.
Getting off all the old paint would be good but the primer no the little you leave behind is not a big deal even paint as long as it has a good bite to the metal. I use 80 grit sand paper under the bondo but if over 1/4" I use 36 grit. bondo the bad spots block then prime. Best to get the bondo work done as good as you can before primer.
2K is a big *** filler kinda like bondo that you spray on I think, never used it.
epoxy primer is made to etch bare metal and be some what of a filler and you bet 180 grit before you put down the 2k.
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