Lca pivot welded to k frame

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I think I would just replace the k-member.
What do they go for these days ?
I used to buy them for $75 or $100 bucks..
so now what are they , like $250?
 
Jim Lusk said:
The tube is not a straight tube. It has a taper at one end for an interference fit with the pin (see pics). I could fix it, but it wouldn't be cheap. Even the shipping wouldn't be cheap. Figure a couple hundred or more in shipping and a couple hundred to fix it. You can replace it with another K-member (any '68-72 V8 K-member would work, but at some point 340 K-members got a washer welded to them), BUT you may also run into problems with the pin tubes or straightness. The pin was likely welded because they couldn't get the nut tight. When I work on a K-member they get bolted into a jig that tells me how straight and square the K-member is. Minor repairs are easy, but big tweaks are not.

View attachment 1716106077
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So that's why one of my aftermarket pivot pins was super tight. I was dumb when I installed it years ago and instead of dressing down the pin a tad for a semi-tight interference fit, I ram-rodded it into the k-member with the nut and now it's really stuck in there. Some day I'll have to get it back out and I think the only way will be with some kind of horizontal jack device, like a bottle jack or something.
 
MopaR&D said:
So that's why one of my aftermarket pivot pins was super tight. I was dumb when I installed it years ago and instead of dressing down the pin a tad for a semi-tight interference fit, I ram-rodded it into the k-member with the nut and now it's really stuck in there. Some day I'll have to get it back out and I think the only way will be with some kind of horizontal jack device, like a bottle jack or something.
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small scissor jack from a car!

use a block of wood against the k just above the lip to kind of "level" it, throw a few turns on the nut to protect the threads of the pin, then slip a socket over so that you have more area for contact on the jack pad.
 
Syleng1 said:
Yes. The holes were a oblonged from worn out bushings and rather than properly rebuild them l they quickly welded them in so they would not move
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Worn bushings weren't the cause of this problem. Likely the inner tube for the pin broke loose for whatever reason.....bad weld, loose nut, one too many pot holes, accident, etc......and it damaged the area where the tube was attached. Instead of repairing it properly by welding the tube back in place and repairing the surrounding part of the K-member, they just welded everything together. That works fine until you need to pull the lower control arm again. In looking at your photos, are you sure the pin is welded to the K-member? Maybe it's just really stuck. Either way, I'd look into getting another '68-72 V8 K-member. Transfer your I.D. washer if you like should the replacement K not have the same one.
 
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