LD4B Intake question

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Perhaps I have the wrong stuff.
The fittings pictured above do what you suggest.

Can you get a picture of yours?
I'll take a close up today and post but its all together.

Does it change things if you put the sender in after the you install the thermostat?
 
Perhaps I have the wrong stuff.
The fittings pictured above do what you suggest.

Can you get a picture of yours?
Looks like mine has a boss that moves the sender to one side of the water neck. I believe I purchased it from Hughes.

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EDIT: ON SECOND THOUGHT, I MIGHT HAVE GOT IT HERE.... Thermostat spacer with EFI sensor port | AR Engineering
 
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There is a brass fitting that is basically a spacer of sorts. I use them when the crossover isn’t deep enough and the sender his the bottom of it.

It spaces it out so it doesn’t hit the manifold. It would probably work for that too.
 
Just for everyone's benefit. AR Engineering AR438 is a good fix for this problem. It is a little bit pricey but bang for your buck it works great. Mancini had it in stock now I can take back the other one to Summit on my next trip there for a refund.

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Just for everyone's benefit. AR Engineering AR438 is a good fix for this problem. It is a little bit pricey but bang for your buck it works great. Mancini had it in stock now I can take back the other one to Summit on my next trip there for a refund.

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Did you need the gasket between the spacer and the intake? Mine from AR Engineering had a rubber O ring for the seal between the spacer and the intake.
 
Oh yes because it increases torque by 70-80 fr lbs easy!

I guess if it’s after the apocalypse in the world looks like Fury Road or Thunderdome and you sitting next to me Gibson scraping for scraps, I guess the 318 heads on a 340 will be OK then. But not before then!
 
Did you need the gasket between the spacer and the intake? Mine from AR Engineering had a rubber O ring for the seal between the spacer and the intake.
I used a gasket instead of the Oring. I probably could have used the Oring but I have had gaskets in stock, so I used them.
 
For anyone questioning this intake’s ability I’ll tell you a quick story. I had a custom heavier 1976 dodge van that I wanted to tow a race car (big block 1974 duster) and a heavy I beam trailer. I pulled the 318 and built a .030 over 360 with an RV cam touched up X or J heads, 600 or 650 Holley, headers, and an untouched LD4B intake. This thing ran terrific and towed great. Transmission had a shift kit but I’m pretty sure 3:23 gears.

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For anyone questioning this intake’s ability I’ll tell you a quick story. I had a custom heavier 1976 dodge van that I wanted to tow a race car (big block 1974 duster) and a heavy I beam trailer. I pulled the 318 and built a .030 over 360 with an RV cam touched up X or J heads, 600 or 650 Holley, headers, and an untouched LD4B intake. This thing ran terrific and towed great. Transmission had a shift kit but I’m pretty sure 3:23 gears.

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Did you keep the van?? That thing is pretty cool.
 
Did you keep the van?? That thing is pretty cool.

I sold it to a guy I worked with and bought a two wheel drive 1982 Suburban with a 454 from my Dad. He towed travel trailers since I was 5 so I knew it was a better tow vehicle for me. When he sold his 1989 suburban (FI 454) I bought it next. Then my first of 3 motorhomes.
 
Well Ya'll.
Heres what I did about 20 yrs ago on my 69 B-Cuda 340 with the LD 340 intake. I used a Brass plumbing female "T" fixture, I think it was 3/8th in,. where one of the heater hoses come off the manifold, along with a couple of reducers. its been working for 20 yrs.
Ist pic is of the front of engine, showing the "T", and heater hose, the second if you look close, under the AN fittings/line, you can see the sending unit, withe capillary tube.

As a side note I only ever use BRASS fittings in my alloy intakes Aluminum, and brass, are compatable together.

Dave

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