Leaking issues in my 200 4R - any gurus available?

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No dice. If the engine temp stays around 180 degrees which it does on cool days, it won't leak. If it's a hot day and the engine runs 200 or more, it leaks like a sieve. I had to pull over three times the other day on the way home. Art Carr is worse than useless. I am through with him. The thought between friends, local transmission guy and my research is that the torque converter is slipping causing high heat. I'm heading to a local guy who says he can drive it and tell me if the torque converter is locking up or slipping. I am looking at a couple different torque converters. Most of the performance shops ask my specs and are recommending a 3500 stall, and my current is 2800. It's going to be interesting.
 
Treblig said:
If you think it might be coming from the vent then all you have to do it attach a long hose to the vent hose into a baggie or something to catch the fluid...this way you'll have your proof as to where the fluid is coming from. I would duct tape the baggie to the side of the transmission so it doesn't sag and leak.

Also, one more important thing........I researched these transmissions quite a bit before I put one in my Barracuda. I read one article about a guy who showed the best way to replace the 2004R filter for racing and heavy use. As it turns out the filter will "suck" air, if you don't take the effort to seal it with silicone around the edges. Do some research on this issue because the problem started after you changed your filter and air in the fluid will cause "foaming"!! I'm surprised Art Carr didn't warn you about this issue. Check this out:



treblig
Click to expand...

Regarding the filter. Mine has a 700R4 filter in it that sucks fluid from the bottom/rear. It works well with the deeper cast pan. It also has about 4 o-rings on the pick-up tube to seal it.
 
Mopar to ya said:
No dice. If the engine temp stays around 180 degrees which it does on cool days, it won't leak. If it's a hot day and the engine runs 200 or more, it leaks like a sieve. I had to pull over three times the other day on the way home. Art Carr is worse than useless. I am through with him. The thought between friends, local transmission guy and my research is that the torque converter is slipping causing high heat. I'm heading to a local guy who says he can drive it and tell me if the torque converter is locking up or slipping. I am looking at a couple different torque converters. Most of the performance shops ask my specs and are recommending a 3500 stall, and my current is 2800. It's going to be interesting.
Click to expand...

Mine feels like a traditional clutch has been engaged when it locks up. There's no mistaking it.
 
So the local guy adjusted the TV cable firmer. I feel no difference in the shifts, but then I usually manually shift anyway. He was unhappy that 4th only comes in at 55 mph, and he thinks there may be a valve body issue with a spring installed wrong. He never did address the overheating issue much. He suggested I bypass the radiator and run directly through the cooler. I did that and it was okay for 25 miles. I stopped for gas and not a drop was leaking. The last 15 miles, however ... I got to my exit and I smelled transmission fluid. I got home and there was fluid everywhere. I'm getting pissed. I'm almost ready to drop the 318 / 904 back in it and sell it. Then I can fix the transmission at my leisure.
 
It's probably a simply thing and when you figure it out you're going to wonder why you didn't come across it earlier. But I know what you're saying about being frustrated!!
Unless you have a temp gage on the transmission you really don't know that it's over heating. If it's not over heating then it's got to be something else. I've been fighting an over heating problem on my daughter's '59 Studebaker Silver hawk for weeks (350 Chevy, all new everything). It's a new motor and have been broken in but I can't keep it from going over 220 degrees. I rerouted the upper hose, installed over full tank, new radiator cap, installed a high flow thermostat, added that additive stuff (wetter water??) to make it cool better, put blower fans in front of the radiator. I'm not sure what else to try so I ordered a new aluminum radiator and some high flow electric fans. Won't know till next week if it solves the problem. So, like I said, I know what you mean about "being frustrated"!!!
There's gotta be a simple answer!!!!

Treblig
 
A lot of GM forums say they have this issue with the dipstick tube o-ring going bad. I'm going to replace it because that is the area where is is leaking. Can't hurt.
 
Mopar to ya said:
A lot of GM forums say they have this issue with the dipstick tube o-ring going bad. I'm going to replace it because that is the area where is is leaking. Can't hurt.
Click to expand...


I don't think it's an o-ring. It's more like a long rubber bushing with a shoulder on it??

treblig
 
If it was a gasket or seal it would leak all the time, what you have stated it only leaks after driving and when it gets hot and no abnormal heat. Is this correct?
Some others have stated fluid level to high and I have not read an answer. I would set the fluid level to the add line (better to 1/2 qt. low to give fluid room to expand) possible cause fluid out vent tube.
Next have you tested to make sure the lock up is working in the torque converter. If it is not it can create a lot of heat when under load in overdrive causing fluid to expand.
One test you can do is keep it in 3rd gear and no overdrive and after setting correct fluid level take for a long road test and see if any leaks. let us know.
 
Here's one thing I found!!


OVERHEATING, FOAMING OIL AT DIPSTICK OR BREATHER
-Oil cooler has insufficient capacity.

-Oil cooler plugged.

-High fluid level.


Since you didn't have a problem before the filter change it's probably not the first one and I don't think you're overfilling??

Could your cooler be plugged?? It would make sense.

treblig
 
Treblig said:
I don't think it's an o-ring. It's more like a long rubber bushing with a shoulder on it??

treblig
Click to expand...
Mine leaked here too. The rubber had folded. Onto itself when installed. Couldn't see it until it was removed.
Call Lonnie at Extreme Automatics and see what he thinks.
 
I do not have a lock up converter. That was my thought too, but there is no TCC solenoid, nothing electronic. The GM forums say it doesn't leak from the dipstick tube until hot conditions. It's worth a check.
 
Mine has a non lock up also. I run my fluid through the radiator then through a cooler. It never ever gets above 185 degrees. But I have a temp gage also. If you suspect overheating all you have to do is get a cooler with good fan attached, that will really bring the temps down. But i don't think that will solve your problem because something must have happened when you changed the fluid/filter at the beginning of this thread?? Also, you wrote that it only happens at higher speeds (not in city streets) so what happens in the transmission at higher speeds (loads) that doesn't happen on city streets??
First check the dip stick seal and let us know what you found. Hang in there!!

treblig
 
I just got mine running, and I initially over filled it and I blew fluid out the vent tube quite a bit on moderate or hard acceleration. It dripped and hit the exhaust exactly where you describe... I talked to a couple friends of mine who are big Chevy guys and they both said they keep their trans filled only to "barely on the stick" or the "cold" mark when hot to prevent blowing fluid out the vent when hot. I dropped mine to that level and have had no leaking from the vent at all... (I still have a front pump leak though, so it will hafta come out again soon to fix that)

So maybe try pulling some fluid off if you're at the full mark, I did it at the cooler line, cause I can't get a pan under my car at ride height... It also works really nice if you don't have a drain plug...

Joe
 
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joeboy said:
I just got mine running, and I initially over filled it and I blew fluid out the vent tube quite a bit on moderate or hard acceleration. It dripped and hit the exhaust exactly where you describe... I talked to a couple friends of mine who are big Chevy guys and they both said they keep their trans filled only to "barely on the stick" or the "cold" mark when hot to prevent blowing fluid out the vent when hot. I dropped mine to that level and have had no leaking from the vent at all... (I still have a front pump leak though, so it will hafta come out again soon to fix that)

So maybe try pulling some fluid off if you're at the full mark, I did it at the cooler line, cause I can't get a pan under my car at ride height... It also works really nice if you don't have a drain plug...

Joe
Click to expand...

Dang! 2 of you have the same problem. I'm going to have to watch out for this. It's probably a good thing you have that extra capacity pan so you can safely lower the oil level. At least it would make me feel more at ease to take out a quart or so with a 2 quart extra capacity pan. I wouldn't feel very comfortable doing that with a stock capacity pan on my car but that's just me.
 
Wouldn't a much better solution be to install a good quality cooler with built in "dedicated" fan to keep the fluid from getting too hot?? That way you don't have to worry about running the fluid at a low level. I run my 2004R at full as per manufacturer's recommendation. I've never had a problem, but again, I have a temp gage and it never gets above 180 degrees (non lock up converter).

treblig
 
I always kept mine right at the top off the fill line. I never had any problems for three years. I have a quality cooler. Something is building up heat or line pressure. I'm taking it to a transmission shop to find out which. They can have it until it's fixed. I can't drive it anymore.
 
I agree treblig, I was just offering a suggestion to see if maybe he was overfull. I trust the guys that suggested it, but their cars are dedicated drag cars. I would never run an auto trans, especially with a higher stall converter, without a proper cooler. I have one of the big plate style cooler as suggested, and don't think I'm overheating at all. I'm debating installing a temp gauge like you just to see... I have a extra capacity alum pan, so it wouldn't be much work at all...
 
clinteg said:
Dang! 2 of you have the same problem. I'm going to have to watch out for this. It's probably a good thing you have that extra capacity pan so you can safely lower the oil level. At least it would make me feel more at ease to take out a quart or so with a 2 quart extra capacity pan. I wouldn't feel very comfortable doing that with a stock capacity pan on my car but that's just me.
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I agree totally, if it wasn't for the deep pan there no way I'd have tried it with the stock pan and 200r4s top feed filter... Mine hasn't done it since I lowered it, and I was quite a bit overfull, so I may slowly add guild back to see what happens... Damn Chevy Parts!!
 
The transmission shop had the car all day and called at 4:30 to say "come and get it!" I asked what it was and he said it was just overfull. I said no way. I've checked the level 50 times minimum in the last month. He swore that's all it was. I picked it up and got to the exact same spot I did last time and it was smoking like an oil refinery. I pulled over in front of the exact same house I did last time. I finally broght the car into work. I decided to lower the tranny as far as I could and put a hose on the vent tube and run it up into a catch can. I got the exhaust down, the driveshaft out, the crossmember out, and lowered it as far as i could. I still couldn't get at the vent tube. I can barely get a finger on it. I called an old buddy I haven't talked to in years. He is a transmission builder. Should have called him first. He says the only things that will increase heat is a slipping converter or if the builder didn't put in the kit to bring flow through the cooler in 4th gear when he changed to a non lock up system. He thinks it's the converter. I beat on it, it wears out, the vanes can get distorted and it can slip more. It's decided, I am ordering a new converter. If that doesn't work I'll have it rebuilt and get it over with.
 
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