Leaky fuel line at the pump

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Hankrebel

Hankrebel

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Performer intake and Eddy 500 installed with everything needed.
Used a stock steel fuel line for a 340 from pump to carb.
I've tried both teflon tape and thread sealant on the connection to the fuel pump, but it leaks.
Any suggestions?

Its been a couple of weeks since getting all the brackets and hoses needed for the install.
My wife was turning the engine over as I was looking for leaks and the engine roared to life and strong!
I will need to adjust the idle screws as it was way to high. Goose bumps
 
So; doesn't it specifically say in the instructions: DON'T USE TEFLON TAPE?

I'm pretty sure the instructions outline the procedure.

Or maybe I'm being a jerk? Hope it works out.
 
That is a compression flare fitting. The threads should never be sealed. Nuts should always be finger started for three turns to avoid cross threading.

The nut compresses the line flare to the inverted flare fitting on pump. Always use two wenches one to hold back on the pump fitting, the other on line nut to tighten. I use both wrenches in one hand, holding the pump fitting still with thumb palm, and squeezing other wrench on flare nut, with fingers. Flare wrenches work better than open end because they engage more sides of fitting. It takes experience in feel to sense the crush for correct tightness.
 
No instructions, but thanks for condescending tone without knowing all the details.

Thanks KitCarlson. I know exactly what you mean. I will clean off any sealant on the threads and try this.
 
Photos?

What are you using for a pump, exactly? Some Carter etc performance pumps are pipe thread and require an adapter for inverted flare.

Unless the fitting was changed "by someone," it is in fact "inverted flare" same as a brake line. Most likely 5/16" If the fitting is built into the carb, and the steel line fits it directly, NO sealer is needed. If the pump is pipe, and has the required adapter, sealer SHOULD be used at the pipe thread fitting. If pipe thread, be careful not to overtighten, as pipe is tapered, and can crack alloy pumps.

"New" inverted flare, or a fitting that has been dropped, etc, can leak or at least be 'cranky' to seal.

Below is an inverted flare -- to pipe thread adapter. If you have a typical replacement pump, it should already "look like" the female part of this fitting. If you have (some) performance pumps, it may have pipe and will require this adapter

F14581593
 
Examine the flare on the steel line. It may have split by a novice technician or faulty tool. Inverted flares are somewhat tricky to do. A split flare will be impossible to seal

EDIT:, Oops, I neglected to mention, inverted, or,double flares are tricky to do.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Examine the flare on the steel line. It may have split by a novice technician or faulty tool. Inverted flares are somewhat tricky to do. A split flare will be impossible to seal
Click to expand...

Juz' sayin' but a factory steel line should be DOUBLE flared, way less likely to split. But that IS a good point
 
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