Leaky valve cover follow up.

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RonsSwinger

RonsSwinger

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Hello Mopar Family. I am using Moroso 93055 valve cover gaskets and the drivers side is leaking. I broke down and went to the Moroso site and their instructions state to secure the gasket using a cross pattern at 80-100 in/lbs of torque. I did that exactly at 90 in/lbs torque . I went for a drive and noticed smoke coming behind me as I drove. They are leaking worse than ever by a long shot and a puddle starts to form under the car when stopped. You can see in the photo that the gasket squeezed out in one spot so they are obviously too tight. The manufacturer **** the bed, so I am going with experience. What are your thoughts. Ron D

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I had an issue with the Moroso gaskets, but I was using factory style chrome valve covers. I've since switched to the Mopar Performance Cast valve covers like you have and haven't had an issue. Been using the same gaskets for close to 10 years now and I check my rockers/valves once a year. I never torque the valve covers though, just snug them by hand. Double check the valve cover and head to make sure there's not something sharp that would've cause it to cut the gasket as well.
 
Those valve covers are wider than the rails on the top of the head..
they are hard to get sealed
 
moparstud440 said:
I had an issue with the Moroso gaskets, but I was using factory style chrome valve covers. I've since switched to the Mopar Performance Cast valve covers like you have and haven't had an issue. Been using the same gaskets for close to 10 years now and I check my rockers/valves once a year. I never torque the valve covers though, just snug them by hand. Double check the valve cover and head to make sure there's not something sharp that would've cause it to cut the gasket as well.
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Thanks for the response. That is a good plan. The cover and head are perfectly clean with no flaws (I made sure on attempt #2). That is a good plan. Ron D
 
Looks to me like the gasket slipped out of place while you were installing/tightening it.
I would suggest putting a light coat of RTV on the cover rail and laying the gasket in place- when dry, install normally. this ensures the gasket will not slip out of place, but still allows you to remove the valve cover for servicing.
This especially works with gaskets that don't fit a particular valve cover very well.
 
Professor Fate said:
Looks to me like the gasket slipped out of place while you were installing/tightening it.
I would suggest putting a light coat of RTV on the cover rail and laying the gasket in place- when dry, install normally. this ensures the gasket will not slip out of place, but still allows you to remove the valve cover for servicing.
This especially works with gaskets that don't fit a particular valve cover very well.
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Thanks you. The gasket was in position 1/2 hour into the drive. At the 1 hr mark it was squeezed out. Gonna try a tender approach and tighten until just over snug.
 
RonsSwinger said:
Thanks you. The gasket was in position 1/2 hour into the drive. At the 1 hr mark it was squeezed out. Gonna try a tender approach and tighten until just over snug.
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PCV system working OK? Any chance that there is pressure building up in the engine and that gasket is a weak point for it to escape?
 
When I was running those MP valve covers, right at the corner where the distribution sits would hit causing the gasket to not fit correct. I trimmed that corner down some and it help with the leaks. Fyi I was running the thick gel pro rubber gaskets
 
I'm befuddled as to how that can happen with those gaskets. They are silicone rubber over a STEEL CORE. How in the world can they squirm out from under the valve cover rails? I would be removing those valve covers and inspecting them and the head rails VERY closely. Maybe even involve a magnifying glass and no I ain't kiddin. The idea that the valve covers might be making contact with something is a good one. I would look at the FULL perimeter where the valve cover rails sit down on the heads and make SURE they aren't hitting anything. Also, as mentioned, look closely on the intake side as lots of times the raised ports on certain intake manifolds will contact the valve covers and keep them from sealing completely.
 
RonsSwinger said:
Hello Mopar Family. I am using Moroso 93055 valve cover gaskets and the drivers side is leaking. I broke down and went to the Moroso site and their instructions state to secure the gasket using a cross pattern at 80-100 in/lbs of torque. I did that exactly at 90 in/lbs torque . I went for a drive and noticed smoke coming behind me as I drove. They are leaking worse than ever by a long shot and a puddle starts to form under the car when stopped. You can see in the photo that the gasket squeezed out in one spot so they are obviously too tight. The manufacturer **** the bed, so I am going with experience. What are your thoughts. Ron D

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Just a detail just in case it could help.
Some cast iron heads are high in the center.
I put a straight edge on a set from front to back and had a good 1/8 inch of gap on each end.
Of course I don’t know if yours are cast or not, but squeezed out in the center is a dead giveaway.
I also understand you didn’t have the problem before, but still.
 
I use the coated fiber valve cover gaskets, they don't leak. What heads do you have?
 
RonsSwinger said:
Hello Mopar Family. I am using Moroso 93055 valve cover gaskets and the drivers side is leaking. I broke down and went to the Moroso site and their instructions state to secure the gasket using a cross pattern at 80-100 in/lbs of torque. I did that exactly at 90 in/lbs torque . I went for a drive and noticed smoke coming behind me as I drove. They are leaking worse than ever by a long shot and a puddle starts to form under the car when stopped. You can see in the photo that the gasket squeezed out in one spot so they are obviously too tight. The manufacturer **** the bed, so I am going with experience. What are your thoughts. Ron D

View attachment 1716117261

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Looks like the gasket failed , rubber tore from steel
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Looks like the gasket failed , rubber tore from steel
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I will know better when I remove the valve cover. When I initially put the gaskets on, the leak was minimal. The second attempt was torque to 90 in/lbs. They leaked so bad I was afraid the oil was going to hit the headers and set the car on fire before I got the car home (I was 1 hr away). I even stopped and got a loan of a socket and ratchet thinking the covers were loose, but the nuts were still tight. By tomorrow evening I will have it apart, and adjusted in wait for a sunny day to test the change
 
RonsSwinger said:
The original was cork, and I upgraded to the silicone……… The cork didn’t leak. I think I am too tight. I will find out in the next day or two.
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So, it wasn't an upgrade then huh? I tried a fancy schmancy silicone valve cover gasket on my slant 6 and went back to cork because the crappy "upgraded" silicone gasket leaked like Niagara Falls.
 
Oh and food for thought. I have NEVER IN MY LIFE torqued a valve cover or even thought about it. Been turning wrenches since 1974. I do however tighten from the inside out.
 
Like TrailBeast said, (I wish I knew his first name), I've had some big block heads with well over an 1/8" of VC rail casting deviation, that leaked no matter what gasket or VC. I've found some heads are ok, and some are really bad as cast. Once I even got shut down and lost a race while staging because of a VC rail leak and the evidence of oil smoke that the starter didn't like.

I now mill the VC sealing surface on any head I use for racing, and I can use the regular FelPro VC gaskets that come in the gasket set, or any other, without leaks.

​

 
RustyRatRod said:
Oh and food for thought. I have NEVER IN MY LIFE torqued a valve cover or even thought about it. Been turning wrenches since 1974. I do however tighten from the inside out.
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The initial install was by hand and from the inside out (I was on the same page as yourself). Drivers side is fine, and I looked for proper torque to correct the passenger side, and it was a disaster ………. Going back to feel, and touch.
 
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