Yeah, and? I work at an auto parts store and am REAL familiar with those. My quote was that LEDs don't WORK on everything.....and they don't. I didn't say anything about them blinking fast. On my truck, they just DON'T WORK.
LED signal light issues.
- Thread starter Clelan
- Start date
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Yeah, and? I work at an auto parts store and am REAL familiar with those. My quote was that LEDs don't WORK on everything.....and they don't. I didn't say anything about them blinking fast. On my truck, they just DON'T WORK.
plymouth73
Well-Known Member
Sorry if I offended you but I never said anything about blinking fast either lol I had the same problem, no blinking so I bought these and they flashed. To clarify I have never experienced hyper flash. Just non working blinker.
Not offended at all, I was just clarifying what I meant. Sorry if it came off like that.
I never got back to this yet. It works since I put the incandescent bulbs back in the front, but I don't want to leave it like that because if the front incandescent burns out, the back won't work either. I believe with the correct flasher it will be good to go with LEDs all around. As stated earlier, with the EL12 flasher all it took was the load added by my test light and it worked perfectly.
Cley
Cley
Hi I need help with this as well on a 1970 dart. I've replaced my front head and parking/turn lights to LED and it works. But when I replace the back lights the turn signal does not switch on. So far from reading this I need CEC Industries EF32RL or maybe the polarity in the socket is reversed? Also where does that relay go? I don't see it in this diagram.
Thanks
Thanks
You need to replace the existing flasher with it. There are two, one for the turn signals and one for the emergency flashers. You need to replace both if you want your emergency flashers to work.
Polarity could also be wrong if the bulb has a plastic socket. If it has a metal socket that gets ground through the body it will be correct.
When I replaced my dash lights with leds the dimmer stopped working. Not enough current. I was going to add a load resistor, but figured out that if if left regular bulbs in my aftermarket gauges, everything worked fine. They provided enough load for the dimmer to work. You could leave some regular bulbs in as an option.
I applied the same trick to my house lights. When I changed to led bulbs (even the dimmable kind) my dimmers didn’t work right any more. I found that if I left one regular bulb in the light fixture, the dimmers worked great again.
Polarity could also be wrong if the bulb has a plastic socket. If it has a metal socket that gets ground through the body it will be correct.
When I replaced my dash lights with leds the dimmer stopped working. Not enough current. I was going to add a load resistor, but figured out that if if left regular bulbs in my aftermarket gauges, everything worked fine. They provided enough load for the dimmer to work. You could leave some regular bulbs in as an option.
I applied the same trick to my house lights. When I changed to led bulbs (even the dimmable kind) my dimmers didn’t work right any more. I found that if I left one regular bulb in the light fixture, the dimmers worked great again.
Ahh cool thanks. Can you point me on where to find them?
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Take your pick, but about any auto place carries them.
Just ask for an LED compatible flasher unit.
Autozone electronic flasher - Google Search
You can also get them by asking for an electronic style flasher.
Check these out.
I designed and built them with red LED's on a red reflective panel under the smoked lexan.
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Sorry meant where are they on the car. Behind the dash?
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Yup
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
"Polarity reverse" an explanation:
Some are talking about their LEDs don't work because the polarity somehow is reversed. This cannot happen except in one situation below. What is LIKELY is that it lost ground, or poor contact in the socket, or the flasher has a problem.
Of course the chinese LED could be made incorrectly LOL
=================================================
ACTUAL polarity reversal. There IS one situation where polarity on an LED can be reversed, causing no light
This is on the cars (I don't think any A bodies!!!) that had the flashing side marker lights, here is how they work
Those lights are a single filament small bulb, connected with one lead to the parking lamp circuit, and the other lead to the turn signal circuit on whichever side they are on
A...With both park and signal off, the marker does not light
B...With only park lamps on, the marker gets power on one lead from the park circuit, and the unlit signal lamp filament/ bulb ACTS AS A GROUND for the marker
C...With park lamps OFF and when signaling, the OTHER lead of the marker gets flashing power from the signal circuit, and the unlit filament of the park lamps ACTS AS A GROUND
THE MARKER between "B" and "C" is reversed polarity between the two situations. Trying to use an LED in that situation will only work in one case not both
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D....With park lamps lit, and when signaling, we now have a DIFFERENT situation. When the signal lamps are dark, the marker gets power from the park circuit and lights with ground through the signal bulb as before, BUT WHEN the signal lamp comes on, NOW WE HAVE 12V on both wires of the marker. The marker goes OUT then, when the signal lamp is ON. This then is the reverse situation compared to situation "C" above, where the marker and signal both light up simultaneously
Some are talking about their LEDs don't work because the polarity somehow is reversed. This cannot happen except in one situation below. What is LIKELY is that it lost ground, or poor contact in the socket, or the flasher has a problem.
Of course the chinese LED could be made incorrectly LOL
=================================================
ACTUAL polarity reversal. There IS one situation where polarity on an LED can be reversed, causing no light
This is on the cars (I don't think any A bodies!!!) that had the flashing side marker lights, here is how they work
Those lights are a single filament small bulb, connected with one lead to the parking lamp circuit, and the other lead to the turn signal circuit on whichever side they are on
A...With both park and signal off, the marker does not light
B...With only park lamps on, the marker gets power on one lead from the park circuit, and the unlit signal lamp filament/ bulb ACTS AS A GROUND for the marker
C...With park lamps OFF and when signaling, the OTHER lead of the marker gets flashing power from the signal circuit, and the unlit filament of the park lamps ACTS AS A GROUND
THE MARKER between "B" and "C" is reversed polarity between the two situations. Trying to use an LED in that situation will only work in one case not both
================================
D....With park lamps lit, and when signaling, we now have a DIFFERENT situation. When the signal lamps are dark, the marker gets power from the park circuit and lights with ground through the signal bulb as before, BUT WHEN the signal lamp comes on, NOW WE HAVE 12V on both wires of the marker. The marker goes OUT then, when the signal lamp is ON. This then is the reverse situation compared to situation "C" above, where the marker and signal both light up simultaneously
pauly v.100
Well-Known Member
from the department of redundancy department..
Hotronics PG-3
http://www.hotronicsproducts.com/pg3.pdf
Hotronics PG-3
http://www.hotronicsproducts.com/pg3.pdf
I would agree that polarity reversal is likely not possible on stock wiring on turn signals and taillights. However, I have seen some number of cases where folks have replaced bulb sockets and got the wiring wrong. The bulbs will light up in some manner no matter how you connect the three wires on a taillight, and that seems to be good enough for some. However, if you put an LED bulb in with the socket miss wired, it may not work. This would only be true foe a plastic socket with a separate ground wire.
I have found Murphy’s law to be applicabe here, “If it can be done wrong, it will be done wrong”.
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